oi 


the  Whtologicat  ® 

PRINCETON,  N.  J. 


Purchased  by  the  Hammill  Missionary  Fund. 


Division 

Section 


1)5507 

.\W755. 


Number. 


ii 

f 


Letters  from  tl]e  Orient. 


. Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/lettersfromorien00wils_0 


LETTER 


FROM  THE 


TL 


TO 


K]er  at  hjomb. 


BY 

MRS.  R.  W.  WILSON. 


^ov\A  (L  ip^Cci-nb)  Vi 


. 


CAf^EFULiLiY  ILLUSTRATED. 


SUNDA  Y-SCIIOO  l DEPA  R TMEN  T. 

Publishing  House  op  tiie  Methohist  Episcopal  Church,  South. 
J.  D.  Barbee,  Agent,  Nashville,  Tenn. 

1890. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Cougiess,  in  the  year  18D0, 

By  the  Book  Agents  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  South, 
in  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


©ontent^ 


PAGE 

Introduction 7 

Letter  I. 

Across  the  Continent — Kansas  City,  Denver,  Salt  Lake  City, 

San  Francisco 9 

Letter  II. 

On  the  Pacific — A Pleasant  Voyage 16 

Letter  III. 

In  Japan — Yokohama,  Tokio,  and  Nikko 19 

Letter  IV. 

The  Mission  Work  and  Workers  in  Japan 35 

Letter  V. 

First  Trip  on  the  Inland  Sea — The  Missouri  Layman’s 

School 49 

Letter  VI. 

Missionary  and  Native  Life  in  Hiroshima 56 

Letter  VII. 

Other  Pleasant  Excursions  in  Japan 70 

Letter  VIII. 

Studying  the  Peculiarities  of  the  Japs 79 

Letter  IX. 

Leaving  Japan — From  Kobe  to  Shanghai 90 

Letter  X. 

The  China  Mission  Conference — Glancing  Over  the  Field. . . 93 

Letter  XI. 

A Tour  of  the  Canals — The  Interior  Mission  Stations — In- 
teresting Observations  Among  the  People 103 


(5) 


6 Contents. 

Letter  XII.  page 

Again  Over  Lake  and  Canal — The  Interior  Journeyings 

Ended 124 

Letter  XlII. 


The  Mission  Schools  in  Shanghai — Their  Good  Management 

— In  the  Homes  of  the  Natives 129 

Letter  XIV. 

Superstitions,  Crimes,  and  Beggary  of  the  Chinese — Some  of 


Their  Fashions  and  Punishments 147 

Letter  XV. 

The  Voyage  to  India — Sights  on  Sea  and  Land 170 

Letter  XVI. 

Hindoo  Women — Their  Zenana  Life — Prisoners  from  the 

Cradle  to  the  Grave — Notable  Sights 1S8 

Letter  XVII. 

In  the  Land  of  the  Pharaohs — Cairo  and  Its  Thousand  At- 
tractions  ' 208 

Letter  XVIII. 

A Short  Stay  in  Rome — The  Ancient  Ruins  and  Modern 

Grandeur  of  the  Eternal  City 221 

Letter  XIX. 

From  Rome  to  Paris — Splendors  and  Miseries  of  the  French 

Capital 230 

Letter  XX. 

Across  the  Channel — Taking  in  the  Wonders  of  London,  the 
World’s  Greatest  City 239 

Letter  XXL 

End  of  the  Journey — From  Liverpool  to  New  York 


252 


Introduction. 


THIS  little  book  was  not  in  the  thought  of  the 
author  when  she  left  her  home  for  the  far 
East.  The  impaired  health  of  her  husband  made 
the  presence  and  service  of  his  wife  necessary  to 
his  comfort;  and  therefore,  with  sadness  and  some 
misgivings,  she  commended  her  daughters  to  God, 
bade  them  farewell,  devoted  herself  to  wifely 
offices,  and  drew  consolation  from  the  thought  of 
oft  writing  to  the  loved  ones  left  in  the  care  of  the 
heavenly  Father. 

Mrs.  Wilson  looked  upon  Japan,  China,  India, 
and  other  lands  with  a woman’s  eye  and  with  a 
woman’s  sympathetic  heart.  Being  in  full  accord 
with  her  husband  in  his  labor  of  love,  she  stood  by 
his  side  as  he  surveyed  the  fields,  made  her  own 
observations,  noted  some  facts  which  might  not 
have  arrested  the  Bishop’s  attention,  and,  while 
the  inspiration  was  fresh  upon  her,  recorded  what 
she  saw,  felt,  and  longed  for,  in  these  familiar  let- 
ters addressed  to  her  children. 

Mrs.  Wilson  brought  to  her  pleasant  task  a 

(7) 


8 


Introduction. 


practiced  pen.  The  weekly  press  has  already 
made  the  Church  familiar  with  her  easy,  unlabored 
style  and  with  her  graphic  pictures  of  life  and 
manners.  It  will  therefore  surprise  no  one  to 
learn  that  judicious  friends  have  requested  the 
publication  of  the  letters  in  a more  permanent 
form. 

These  letters  will  give  to  a majority  of  readers  a 
more  satisfactory  view  of  Oriental  life,  of  the  needs 
of  the  heathen  world,  and  of  the  character  of  mis- 
sionary service  than  could  be  gained  from  more 
pretentious  volumes ; and  it  is  safe  to  expect,  as 
results  of  them,  more  of  the  missionary  conscience 
in  the  Church,  more  prayer  for  the  perishing,  and 
a more  correct  judgment  of  those  who,  in  separa- 
tion from  kindred  and  from  home,  spend  their 
strength  in  the  attempt  to  raise  those  who  have 
been  cast  down  by  idolatry  and  have  lain  for  cent- 
uries beneath  its  mass  of  evil. 

These  opinions  are  given  after  a careful  reading 
of  the  letters,  and  it  is  believed  that  they  will  be 
confirmed  by  those  who  shall  read  them  in  their 
present  form.  Samuel  Rodgers. 

Baltimore,  Md. 


betters  ffom  tfye  ©rienf. 


LETTER,  i. 

ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT— KANSAS  CITY,  DENVER,  SALT  LAKE 
CITY,  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

San  Francisco,  July  29,  18S8. 

IT  was  no  light  thing  to  leave  you  for  such  a jour- 
ney as  we  have  undertaken,  and  for  so  long  a 
time.  The  uncertainties  of  the  separation  crowd 
into  my  thoughts — not  to  the  exclusion  of  faith 
and  hope,  but  overtopping  the  pleasant  anticipa- 
tions which  you  exhorted  me  to  cherish.  Being 
sure  that  it  is  right  for  me  to  go,  I do  not  expect 
to  look  through  dimmed  eyes  all  the  way;  indeed, 
already  the  skies  are  brightening,  because  our 
“Mizpah”  stands  above  the  clouds.  How  happy 
we  should  be  that  this  beacon  is  ours  in  common, 
the  Lord  surely  watching  between  us  while  we  are 
absent  one  from  the  other ! no  more  with  us  than 
with  you — you  at  home  as  privileged  as  we  who 
are  about  his  business  in  distant  climes,  and  we 
no  nearer  to  him  because  our  journeying  may 
take  us  into  his  very  presence ; for  he  is  alike  near 

(9) 


10  Letters  f rom  the  Orient. 

his  children  whether  they  labor  on  earth  or  rest 
in  heaven. 

We  had  not  gone  a day’s  journey  when  a 
“washout”  on  the  Marietta  and  Cincinnati  Rail- 
road delayed  our  train  for  several  hours.  “No 
breakfast”  caused  very  lugubrious  faces  in  our 
car:  however,  about  io  a.m.  there  was  a visible 
brightening  of  the  hungry  crowd  on  finding  that  a 
little  farm-house  on  the  top  of  a hill  near  by  could 
furnish  a meager  supply.  What  mattered  it  to  the 
famishing  that  the  amount  of  water  for  dish-wash- 
ing was  scant?  Eighteen  hours  of  fasting,  with 
the  prospect  of  several  more  ahead,  was  sufficient 
to  remove  from  us  all  fastidiousness.  We  took 
our  turn,  and  I must  add  that  these  rations  were 
commensurate  with  the  price,  neither  the  one  nor 
the  other  being  beyond  our  capacity. 

A delightful  stay  of  thirty-six  hours  in  Kansas 
City  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Witten  McDonald  was  a 
pleasant  break  in  railroad  travel.  The  delay  on 
the  route  deprived  us  of  the  pleasure  of  looking 
over  the  city  by  daylight.  We  were  partially 
compensated  by  a drive  in  the  moonlight,  bright 
enough  to  let  us  see  how  wonderfully  this  young 
city  has  growm  into  long  lines  of  streets  adorned 
on  either  side  with  attractive  residences  set  in  the 
midst  of  parks  and  gardens,  restful  to  the  eye  and 


Across  the  Continent.  11 

suggestive,  as  all  earthly  good  should  be,  of  better 
things.  The  next  day — the  Lord’s-day — we  wor- 
shiped morning  and  night  atWalnut  Street  Church. 
Your  father  preached,  and,  I dare  to  say  it,  gave 
us  an  honest  gospel.  Monday  morning  we  re- 
sumed our  journey,  leaving  behind  blessing  and 
prayer  for  our  hosts,  and  bearing  with  us,  I doubt 
not,  their  best  wishes. 

Six  hours’  delay  in  Denver  gave  us  opportunity 
to  look  through  the  city.  Mr.  Brinker  and  Mr. 
Rhodes,  friends  of  your  father — long  time  ago 
from  Winchester,  Virginia ; for  these  many  years 
settled  in  Denver,  and  devoted  advocates  of  its 
interests — showed  us  kindness.  It  is  a great  city, 
beginning  where  many  of  our  Eastern  cities  have 
ended,  and  in  its  public  and  private  buildings  and 
municipal  arrangements  showing  how  grandly 
Western  energy  expends  itself. 

As  you  know,  I was  never  before  so  far  west: 
so  far,  it  seemed  to  me,  that  I was  disposed  to  sing, 
“Beyond  the  sunset’s  radiant  glow.”  But  the 
glow  still  keeps  ahead,  and  I suppose  we  shall  not 
overtake  it  until  we  pass  to  where  there  shall  be 
no  sun. 

At  Denver  we  were  five  thousand  two  hundred 
feet  above  sea-level.  Our  continued  travel  was 
down-hill,  till  at  Salt  Lake  City  our  elevation  was 


12  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

less  by  twelve  hundred  feet.  Here  also  we  drove 
out,  visiting  the  Temple  and  Tabernacle,  climbed 
the  lofty  hill  that  gives  the  best  view  of  the  city 
and  surrounding  plain,  as  far  as  to  the  great  Salt 
Lake;  besides,  we  saw  the  houses  where  dwelt 
the  many  wives  and  children  of  Brigham  Young, 
the  chief  apostle  of  Mormonism,  as  well  as  other 
handsome  residences  along  the  broad,  well-shaded 
and  well-watered  streets.  The  Temple,  if  ever 
finished,  will  be  magnificent:  it  is  said  the  sound 
of  a hammer  has  not  been  heard  in  the  building. 
The  Tabernacle,  where  ten  thousand  Mormons  as- 
semble every  Sunday,  is  not  surpassed  in  the  world 
in  seating  capacity  nor  in  acoustic  properties.  I 
pray  God  that  some  day  the  everlasting  gospel  may 
be  preached  in  this  great  building  of  the  Mormons. 

Do  you  know  the  beginning  of  this  city?  Orig- 
inally the  Mormons  lived  in  Illinois,  and  were 
driven  from  that  State  by  a mob  of  outraged  peo- 
ple. They  were  allowed  to  convert  their  property 
into  cash,  and,  taking  their  wives  and  children, 
started  west  to  find  a new  home.  On  and  on  they 
traveled  to  a land  they  knew  not.  July  24,  1847, 
they  came  through  a defile  of  the  mountain  on  the 
east  side  of  what  is  now  Salt  Lake  City.  I won- 
der not,  when  they  passed  over  and  saw  this  beau- 
tiful valley,  they  went  no  farther.  Here  they 


Across  the  Continent. 


13 


settled,  and  by  the  strong  hand  and  organizing  skill 
of  Brigham  Young  established  the  corrupt  system 
which  has  extended  widely  and  become  a festering 
sore  upon  the  fair  face  of  our  prosperous  West. 

From  thence  we  journeyed  on  without  event  till 
our  arrival  at  San  Francisco,  the  goal  of  westward 
travel  and  point  of  departure  for  “the  East  by  way 
of  the  West.”  It  is  worthy  of  more  notice  than 
the  urgency  of  our  movements  allows  me  to  give. 
It  had  its  rise,  you  know,  in  the  greed  of  gold  that 
burst  into  a volcanic  passion  forty  years  ago,  and 
drove  thousands  of  men  of  all  classes  across  the 
plains,  through  weariness  and  want,  danger  and 
death,  to  seek  their  fortunes  in  the  newly  discov- 
ered mines  of  California.  Then  hardly  more  than 
a miner’s  camp,  or  at  best  a depot  of  supplies  for 
the  adventurers,  it  has  now  grown  to  be  a mighty 
city,  with  world-wide  commercial  connections,  with 
broad  streets  lined  by  great  warehouses  or  adorned 
by  princely  homes  and  thronged  by  eager,  busy 
multitudes,  with  every  token  of  vast  wealth  and 
tireless  enterprise  — and  a reputation  for  great 
wickedness  second  to  that  of  no  other  city  on  this 
continent.  I do  not  know  if  this  witness  be  true. 
Unhappily,  wherever  great  masses  of  our  race  con- 
gregate the  inward  corruption  breaks  out  in  hid- 
eous sores.  San  Francisco  is,  I suspect,  neither 


14  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

better  nor  worse  than  other  cities.  There  is  sure- 
ly a righteous  seed  in  it — men  and  women  who 
fear  God  and  work  righteousness.  There  are 
churches  and  Sunday-schools,  and  earnest,  honest 
preachers  of  the  word,  and  benevolent  institutions, 
and  all  the  products  of  a living  Christianity.  If 
there  seems  to  be  an  undue  proportion  of  reckless- 
ness and  godlessness  in  this  desperate  strife  for 
wealth,  we  still  dare  hope — nay,  we  dare  not  doubt 
— that  Christ  will  one  day  be  supreme  Lord  here 
also,  and  assert  himself  by  driving  the  money- 
changers out  of  every  temple  claimed  as  his 
Father’s. 

We  went  over  the  city,  climbing  its  steep  hills 
in  the  cable-cars,  standing  on  the  bluffs  overlook- 
ing the  beautiful  bay,  strolling  through  the  public 
gardens,  gazing  from  the  “Cliff”  out  upon  the 
broad  ocean  over  whose  uncertain  waters  we  will 
soon  venture,  and  passing  in  the  midst  of  throngs 
that  pressed  their  way  along  the  lines  of  trade. 
Everywhere  is  something  to  interest — of  God’s 
work  or  man’s,  or  both — and  everywhere  some- 
thing to  give  note  of  the  difference  between  the 
life  so  suddenly  developed  in  this  new  land  and  the 
more  staid  and  decorous  life  that  has  come  up  by 
orderly  growth  on  our  side  of  the  continent. 

We  went  to  church  on  Sunday  where  Dr.  Han- 


Across  the  Continent. 


15 


non  is  pastor.  Those  who  have  once  known  him 
never  forget  him.  Pure,  loving,  patient,  unique, 
energetic,  he  does  his  work  hopefully  amidst  dis- 
couragements, but  sustained  by  the  earnest  prayers 
of  our  faithful  band,  as  well  as  by  the  word  of 
God.  He  was  glad  to  have  a visitor  from  across 
the  continent  to  stand  in  his  place  on  Sunday. 

The  hour  draws  near  when  we  will  sail  from  our 
native  shores.  The  blessing  of  the  Lord  be  yours  ! 
Once  again  I remind  you  that  his  blessing  is  bet- 
ter than  life.  Better  that  you  have  him,  with  all 
that  his  presence  gives,  than  to  have  all  the  world 
without  his  loving-kindness. 


LETTER  II. 


ON  THE  PACIFIC— A PLEASANT  VOYAGE. 


Steamer  “Belgic,”  Pacific  Ocean,  August  io,  1S8S. 


E sailed  from  busy,  bustling  San  Francisco 


July  31st.  One  from  the  East,  whom  you 
know,  was  among  our  friends  at  the  wharf  to  bid 
us  “ Bon  voyage She  came  with  a handful  of 
roses  and  tender  words,  which  perhaps  we  appre- 
ciated the  more  because  of  all  the  years  that  stand 
between  us,  she  being  as  near  the  threshold  of  life 
as  we  are  leaning  toward  its  close.  She  did  not 
know  that  after  the  good-by  we  stood  at  our  “ port  ” 
watching  her  as  she  looked  on  the  busy  crowd. 
“The  Lord  make  his  face  to  shine”  upon  her! 

Hundreds  of  Chinese  were  there,  scattering  their 
prayers  to  the  gods  of  the  winds  and  waters  in  be- 
half of  friends  about  to  return  to  China.  These 
were  recorded  upon  squares  of  yellow  paper,  and 
according  to  expectations  were  to  be  conveyed  to 
their  destination  by  the  spirits  that  wait  upon  the 
■powers. 


I have  been  writing  to  M.  from  day  to  day 
since  we  sailed  through  the  Golden  Gate,  so  that 


August  14. 


(1G) 


(17) 


17 


On  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

you  will  hear  from  her  the  particulars  of  hour 
after  hour.  To  most  persons  life  on  the  sea  is 
monotonous;  to  me  it  is  delightful  beyond  my 
power  of  expression.  The  unquiet  waters,  the 
blue  skies,  the  pure  atmosphere,  the  roll  and  pitch 
of  the  steamer,  the  movements  of  the  sailors,  the 
sea-gulls  which  follow  us,  our  books,  the  social 
environment  and  domestic  pleasures,  have  given 
me  abundant  thought  and  employment,  so  that  I do 
not  suffer  from  ennui;  and  as  in  addition  I have 
had  no  seasickness,  I must  say  the  Pacific  has 
been  an  unending  pleasure.  We  have  had  two 
sweet  little  visitors.  We  wonder  how  they  came. 
Two  tiny  brown  birds  have  been  flying  fore  and 
aft  for  a few  days.  We  suppose  they  must  have 
been  about  the  rigging  all  the  time,  or  perhaps  in 
the  steerage.  They  do  not  seem  frightened.  Per- 
haps they  will  be  so  pleased  with  the  “ Belgic  ” as 
to  make  her  a permanent  residence;  or  maybe 
they  are  traveled  birds  that  have  but  the  Japanese 
songs  to  learn  in  order  to  know  all  the  languages 
under  the  sun. 

I am  almost  disappointed  over  our  quiet  voyage. 
I had  desired  to  see  the  ocean  in  a storm.  Perhaps 
five  minutes  of  a dangerous  sea  would  suffice  me, 
for  I am  not  more  courageous  than  others ; but  the 
feeling  of  safety  under  the  shadow  of  the  Almighty 


18 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

is  so  rooted  in  me  that  though  I might  tremble  be- 
fore the  angry  waves  I think  I would  feel  secure. 
We  had  been  spared  the  trial  of  an  alarm,  and 
though  our  steps  have  often  been  unsteady  on  ac- 
count of  the  swell,  we  have  not  been  required  to 
omit  our  promenade  or  leave  our  chairs  on  the 
deck  unoccupied. 

August  16. 

To-morrow  we  will  see  land,  God  willing.  I am 
not  in  haste  to  leave  the  waters,  which  have  dealt 
so  kindly  with  us.  Perhaps  the  exhilaration  of 
these  delicious  days  will  quiet  down,  and  we  shall 
have  renewed  strength  whose  outcome,  by  the 
grace  of  our  Lord  Jesus,  shall  be  a new  inspiration 
for  work. 

Bishop  and  Mrs.  Fowler,  of  the  M.  E.  Church, 
have  been  fellow-passengers  on  the“Belgic,”  and 
very  agreeable  friends  we  have  found  them.  The 
Bishop  bears  the  same  message  to  the  East  that 
your  father  does.  However  much  we  differ  as  to 
plans  at  home,  we  are  agreed  that  the  millions  of 
unsaved  heathen  must  have  the  gospel  at  the  hands 
of  Christian  people,  or  sink  to  perdition. 


(19) 


CITY  AND  BAY  OF  YOKOHAMA. 


LETTER  III. 

IN  JAPAN— YOKOHAMA,  TOKIO,  AND  NIKKO. 

Yokohama,  Japan,  August  29,  18SS. 

AFTER  a shining  seventeen  days  across  the 
Pacific,  the  “Belgic”  anchored  a mile  from 
Yokohama,  in  its  beautiful  bay.  We  arrived  with 
flying  colors — the  colors  of  the  Occidental  and 
Oriental  Company — the  British  flag  and  our  own 
“Stars  and  Stripes.”  In  a few  minutes  a hun 
dred  “sampans”  had  been  paddled  out  to  us,  and 
for  more  than  an  hour  I looked  on  the  most  curi- 
ous of  panoramas.  Perhaps  two  hundred  or  more 
men,  without  clothing,  clamoring  in  an  unknown 
tongue  for  passengers,  fighting  for  place,  and  even 
in  some  cases  the  quicker  throwing  his  antagonist 
overboard,  kept  my  eyes  busy  lest  I should  lose 
some  exciting  event.  We  thought  one  fellow, 
whose  vigorous  adversary  threw  him  into  the  sea, 
would  not  be  able  to  make  his  way  up  through  the 
boats.  However,  he  succeeded,  and  was  so  indus- 
trious that  his  opponent  was  soon  sputtering  in  the 
water. 

In  due  time  we  and  our  luggage  were  stowed  in 
a sampan  and  soon  stood  on  terra  jirma.  Then 

(19) 


20 


Letters  f rom  the  Orient. 

followed  a ride  in  a jinrikisha  drawn  by  a coolie 
who  trots  as  well  as  a horse.  Our  way  was  along 
the  Bund,  where  are  foreign  residences,  ware- 
houses, and  hotels.  On  one  side  was  the  broad 
ocean  whence  .we  had  come,  the  bay  dotted  with 
stately  steamers,  hundreds  of  fishing  sails,  and 
sampans  innumerable;  while  on  the  other  side  was 
the  city.  As  our  coolie  trotted  on  we  came  in  sight 
of  the  high  bluff,  whose  beautiful  groves  are  owned 
by  foreigners.  Missionaries  of  the  various  Boards 
occupy  some  of  these  sites,  which  I heard  spoken 
of  as  a reproach — the  idea  being  that  they  should 
be  satisfied  with  cheaper  locations.  I afterward 
inquired 'into  this  assertion  of  extravagance,  and 
found  that  these  lots  for  missionary  homes  were 
bought  long  ago  for  less  money  than  undesirable 
places  now  bring. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  in  Yokohama  we 
undertook  an  expedition  to  Daibutsee,  the  great 
bronze  image  of  Buddha  at  Kamakura.  Bishop 
and  Mrs.  Fowler  and  several  members  of  the  Ja- 
pan Conference,  M.  E.  Church,  including  a native 
preacher,  took  the  train  with  us  at  an  early  hour 
for  Fujisawa.  There  we  found  an  ample  supply 
of  jinrikishas,  in  which  we  were  borne  at  a good 
pace  to  Kamakura.  Two  years  ago,  when  your 
father  first  visited  this  region,  he  and  Mrs.  Denny 


21 


Japanese  Cities  and  Towns . 

made  this  entire  trip  from  Yokohama,  about  eight- 
een miles,  in  jinrikishas.  Since  then  the  railroad 
has  been  built  to  a point  within  easy  reach  of  the 
old  town.  It  is  now  but  a small  place  of  six  thou- 
sand population.  It  was  formerly,  and  for  centu- 
ries, the  home  of  the  rulers  of  Japan,  and  in  that 
day  of  its  power  numbered  over  two  hundred  thou- 
sand people.  It  lies  near  the  coast,  and  from  the 
hills  above,  with  the  groves  surrounding  large  old 
temples  and  picturesque  native  houses,  presents  a 
very  attractive  appearance.  Here  is  the  immense 
copper-bronze  figure,  Daibutsee,  seated,  as  he  is 
most  frequently  represented,  in  a lotus-flower. 
The  image  is  fifty-four  feet  in  height,  and  weighs 
four  hundred  and  fifty  tons.  His  head  is  strangely 
ornamented  with  snails  of  bronze,  in  memory  of 
the  day  when  hundreds  of  them  crawled  the  entire 
length  of  Buddha  in  order  to  shield  his  head  from 
the  midday  sun.  In  the  interior  of  the  image  is  a 
temple  with  shrines,  incense-burners  sending  out 
clouds  of  smoke,  and  various  idols  in  the  locality 
where  his  brains  should  be.  Around  about  him  in 
the  beautiful  grounds  are  scores  of  exquisite  lotus- 
flowers,  whose  loveliness  springs  from  out  the  mud. 
I could  not  but  compare  the  marsh  where  they 
grew  to  the  heart  of  Japan,  full  of  evil  thoughts 
more  hideous  than  the  weeds  of  any  neglected  soil. 


22  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

A new  element — the  seed — enters  the  mire,  and, 
touched  by  Nature’s  God,  the  most  beautiful  blos- 
som puts  forth.  So  the  heart  of  man,  putrid  with 
sin,  receives  the  word  of  truth,  accepts  the  blood 
of  Jesus,  and  puts  on  new  life. 

On  our  return  trip  we  stopped  for  dinner  at  a 
Japanese  inn.  We  were  shown  into  a large,  cool 
room  in  the  second  story,  the  sight  of  which  rested 
us.  Some  of  us  drank  unnumbered  cups  of  tea, 
and  partook  of  various  dishes  to  a very  satisfying 
extent.  The  omelet  was  interspersed  with  onions 
and  scraps  of  fish ; an  uneatable  pickle  graced  the 
table,  together  with  sliced  green  pears  and  un- 
cooked beans.  The  whole  was  supplemented  by 
the  attentions  of  a pretty,  sweet-voiced  maiden, 
who  labored  in  vain  to  perfect  us  in  the  use  of 
chopsticks. 

We  had  an  exciting  scene  at  Fujisawa  with  our 
jinrikisha  coolies.  They  took  it  into  their  heads 
that  the  native  preacher  who  accompanied  us  was 
our  paid  guide,  and  tried  to  compel  him  to  divide 
profits  with  them.  The  contention  became  very 
sharp,  and  led  to  violence — in  short,  a fight  ensued. 
Our  native  friend  was  only  rescued  when  “the 
brethren”  entered  the  field.  I may  say  I was  on 
the  outer  edge  of  a fight;  a little  longer,  and 
I might  have  done  as  Mrs.  S.  did — viz.,  have 


(23) 


TIIE  JINRIKISIIA. 


Japanese  Cities  and  Towns.  23 

pinched  the  arm  of  one  of  the  combatants  on  the 
other  side. 

I suppose  you  are  familiar  with  the  word  “ jin- 
rikisha,”  the  little  carriage  drawn  by  a man — or, 
as  it  has  been  facetiously  called,  the  “Pull-man- 
car.”  I shrunk  at  first,  never  having  seen  a man 
used  as  a beast  of  burden.  Of  course  all  over 
America  the  industrious  poor  toil  from  early  morn 
till  late  in  the  day.  The  large  plantations,  im- 
mense factories,  and  great  railroad  interests  could 
not  otherwise  be  worked.  The  coolies  are  trained 
to  this  labor,  and  want  nothing  better:  they  are 
cheerful,  ready  and  anxious  for  a job,  and  look 
upon  a horse  as  an  innovation.  It  is  their  means 
of  livelihood,  and  to  take  it  from  them  would  be  a 
grievance. 

August  20  we  went  to  Tokio,  the  imperial  resi- 
dence, whose  population  is  almost  a million.  Here 
is  the  Biblical  School  of  the  M.  E.  Mission.  Our 

i 

Board  accepted  the  offer  of  a chair  in  this  institu- 
tion, and  sent  out  Rev.  J.  C.  C.  Newton,  of  the 
Baltimore  Conference,  to  fill  it.  Professor  New- 
ton arrived  three  months  ago,  and  at  once  began 
the  work  which  already  fills  his  heart  and  brain. 
We  found  Mrs.  Newton  in  the  first  agonies  of  the 
Japanese  language,  not  being  able  to  make  known 
her  wants  to  her  cook  except  by  pantomime.  I 


•24  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

do  not  see  how  one  directs  the  kitchen,  which  is 
the  hub  of  the  household,  by  signs  only.  Mrs. 
Newton  does  it  with  the  hope,  however,  that  soon 
she  will  be  mistress  of  the  situation.  Think  of 
the  feeling  of  helplessness  if  you  stand  in  the  pres- 
ence of  an  unknown  tongue,  not  knowing  how  to 
bargain  for  a chair,  a plate,  or  the  marketing — hav- 
ing no  idea  how  to  begin  to  train  a Japanese  serv- 
ant in  American  ways,  nor  knowing  the  value  of  a 
single  piece  of  money.  Our  friends  in  Tokio  will 
not  succumb  to  these  difficulties.  We  had  been  with 
them  a few  days  when  we  left  for  a visit  to  Nikko, 
the  most  beautiful  town  in  Japan.  The  Japanese 
say,  “Do  not  talk  of  beauty  until  you  have  seen 
Nikko.”  It  is  the  surrounding  country,  rather 
than  the  town,  that  is  so  picturesque. 

Leaving  the  cars  at  Utsunomya,  \\;e  took  jin- 
rikishas  for  the  remaining  twenty-two  miles,  and 
started  off  with  good  speed  upon  the  delightful 
drive.  We  had  gone  about  six  miles  when  our 
men  set  us  down  and  entered  upon  a conversation 
with  us,  not  a word  of  which  we  understood.  A 
passing  missionary  informed  us  that  they  refused 
to  finish  the  journey,  suggesting  that  they  meant  to 
demand  more  pay  than  the  bargain  required.  Of 
course  our  helplessness  compelled  us  to  raise  their 
wages,  and  we  made  another  start.  Very  soon 


(25) 


JAPANESE  DWELLINGS. 


yapanesc  Cities  and  Towns.  25 

rain  set  in,  and  when  darkness  came  I was  afraid; 
for  what  resources  had  we  among  a people  whose 
tongue  was  unknown  to  us,  if  they  pleased  to  be 
treacherous?  I fell  back  on  a scripture  which  was 
my  refuge  thirty  years  ago  when  I was  a young 
wife.  We  were  living  high  up  in  the  mountains  of 
Virginia,  out  of  sight  of  any  house.  The  work  of 
my  young  preacher  every  second  week  took  him 
across  the  mountains  for  two  or  three  days.  Of 
course  I could  not  wish  him  to  neglect  his  obliga- 
tions for  any  small  thing.  I did  very  well  during 
his  absence  till  Sunday  night  came,  when  my  faith- 
ful man,  John,  who  was  a devoted  Methodist,  went 
off  “at  early  candle-light”  to  meet  the  people  of 
the  Lord.  My  baby  and  a little  negro  of  ten  years 
were  then  my  only  companions,  and  I was  afraid; 
but  I found  a text  which  met  the  emergency: 
“What  time  I am  afraid,  I will  trust  in  Thee.” 
With  that  heavenly  help,  no  wonder  I was  secure 
those  long  years  ago — no  wonder  I was  safe  last 
week  in  the  heart  of  a heathen  land.  We  arrived  at 
our  destination  soon  after  n p.m.,  having  been  near- 
ly eight  hours  on  a journey  of  twenty-two  miles. 

Nikko,  or  “ Sun’s  Splendor,”  is  beautiful  for  sit- 
uation. She  sits  among  the  hills,  a river  rushing 
through  the  town  over  the  rocks,  while  smaller 
streams  come  from  the  mountains  in  several  direc- 


26  Leilas  from  the  Orient. 

tions.  There  are  no  foreign  houses;  consequently 
all  summer  visitors  occupy  Japanese  houses,  which 
are  very  pretty.  The  sides  of  these  cottages  are 
open  during  the  day,  the  sliding  panels  being  re- 
moved, thus  disclosing  verandas  which  encircle 
the  house.  A second  set  of  panels  then  appears, 
made  up  of  small  squares  of  rice-paper  set  in  lat- 
tice-work. At  the  season  of  our  visit  all  the  pan- 
els were  open,  leaving  but  little  except  the  roof 
and  floors.  The  Japanese  consider  it  very  untidy 
to  enter  their  homes  wearing  the  shoes  that  have 
trodden  the  streets.  They  leave  their  sandals  at 
the  door  and  go  about  the  house  with  bare  feet. 
Foreigners  provide  slippers  in  exchange  for  the 
street  shoe,  which  must  not  be  worn  inside.  Of 
course  this  custom  is  troublesome,  but,  like  the  laws 
of  the  Medes  and  Persians,  it  changes  not.  The 
first  thing  that  greeted  us  when  we  went  to  prayer- 
meeting in  the  house  of  a Presbyterian  missionary 
in  Nikko  was  twenty-five  or  thirty  pairs  of  shoes 
on  the  outside  of  the  door,  where  ours  soon  fell 
into  line. 

Something  of  sanctity"  attaches  to  this  city,  for 
here  are  scores  of  temples  for  which  millions  of 
money  have  been  spent.  The  devotion  of  this 
nation  in  the  past  to  its  worship  might  well  cause 
us  to  hide  our  faces.  I noticed  that  no  devotee 


Japanese  Cities  and  Towns.  27 

entered  upon  his  prayers  till  he  first  cast  into  the 
treasury  his  offering,  and  also  that  mothers  had  their 
children  of  two  and  three  years,  and  older,  by  their 
sides.  As  the  mother  prayed  the  little  one  was 
taught  the  attitude  of  prayer.  They  say  Japan  is 
growing  indifferent  to  her  old  beliefs.  If  so,  what 
must  have  been  her  devotion  in  the  years  gone  by ! 
No  shoe  touches  the  sacred  floors  of  the  temples. 
Perhaps  the  idea  of  purity  in  coming  to  their  wor- 
ship is  in  their  thoughts  when  they  lay  aside  this 
sign  of  soil — the  shoe  that  has  rested  upon  the 
earth.  What  Christian  will  not  pray  that  from 
this  outward  token  of  cleanliness  the  Japanese  may 
grasp  the  truth  that  only  “the  pure  in  heart  shall 
see  God?  ” 

The  temples  are  very  handsome,  both  in  the  out- 
side and  inside  decorations.  I will  leave  to  other 
pens  the  task  of  describing  the  rich  carvings  of  the 
imperial  chrysanthemum,  the  sacred  lotus,  bronze 
candelabra , golden  lilies,  gold-lacquered  columns, 
the  rich  hangings,  the  incense-burners,  tables, 
silken  fringes,  and  the  rich  boxes  containing  the 
prayers  of  the  saints.  All  these  attract  the  eye, 
and  cost  the  people  in  the  centuries  gone  great 
self-denial.  But  what  wonderful  work  does  not? 
And  if  Japan  lavished  her  best  on  Buddha,  what 
shall  we  render  to  our  God,  who  “so  loved  the 


28  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

world  that  he  gave  his  only-begotten  Son”  that  we 
may  have  everlasting  life  ? 

The  choice  spots  of  Nikko  are  the  locations  of 
the  temples.  Nature  was  left  undisturbed  to  do 
her  best,  though  the  artisan  has  been  at  work 
on  mountain-side  and  ravine.  From  the  stately 
cryptogamia  to  the  tender  blade  of  grass  or  tiny 
fern,  nature  was  allowed  to  please  the  eye.  The 
architect  went  on  with  his  building,  but  left  the 
hills  and  trees  and  moss  and  streams  to  grow  and 
run.  We  went  to  the  highest  point  of  the  temple- 
grounds  to  visit  the  tomb  of  one  of  the  Shoguns, 
up  three  hundred  steps  of  granite  stair-way  with 
its  moss-covered  balustrade  of  the  same  rock. 
The  resting-place  of  the  dead  ruler  was  a great 
mausoleum  ornamented  with  finely  wrought  bronze 
figures  of  the  crane  and  tortoise,  both  emblematic 
of  long  life  or  immortality,  and  of  the  lotus,  sacred 
to  purity  and  perfection.  Thus  the  nation  ex- 
pressed the  belief  that  the  great  man  had  passed 
into  a perfect  immortality. 

The  return  trip  from  Nikko  was  under  difficul- 
ties. Our  jinrikisha-men  failed  us,  and  we  were 
compelled  to  look  about  for  some  other  convey- 
ance. Our  China  friends,  Mrs.  Campbell,  Miss 
Atkinson,  and  Miss  Hamilton  (who  were  gathering 
strength  in  Nikko),  set  themselves  to  help  us  in  our 


Japanese  Cities  and  Towns.  29 

emergency,  and  sent  us  mules,  for  which  we  ren- 
dered them  grateful  thoughts,  even  though  they 
came  five  minutes  after  we  mounted  the  “basha,” 
an  uncomfortable  wagon.  Our  horses  were  worn 
out,  and  one  soon  fell  from  exhaustion.  No.  sooner 
was  a new  team  at  work  than  the  traces  broke. 
Afterward  our  driver  went  to  sleep,  of  which  the 
horses  took  advantage  and  “dragged  their  slow 
length  along.’’  These  detentions  caused  us  to  lose 
our  train : we  barely  arrived  in  time  for  the  second, 
without  a moment  to  spare.  When  we  got  to  Ut- 
sonomya  the  driver  and  passengers  began  to  share 
our  spirit  of  haste,  and  seemed  to  have  some  pride 
about  getting  us  to  the  station  in  time.  Even  our 
steeds  caught  the  infection — the  bony,  jaded  ani- 
mals actually  galloped,  being  excited  by  the  yells 
and  stamping  and  cracking  of  the  whip.  The  con- 
ductor of  the  train  lent  a helping  hand.  Seeing 
our  struggle  of  vehement  hurry,  he  stopped  his  car 
which  had  already  moved  an  inch  or  two. 

Our  ride,  in  spite  of  the  rickety,  crowded  wagon, 
had  been  exhilarating — indeed,  inspiring.  We  had 
come  through  the  beautiful  avenue  of  cryptogamia; , 
of  which  travelers  write  with  enthusiasm.  On  both 
sides  of  the  road  for  eighteen  miles  were  double 
rows  of  magnificent  trees,  in  many  places  arching 
overhead  and  affording  shade  from  the  hot  August 


30  Letters  from  the  Orient . 

sun.  The  image  of  the  shining  rays  through  that 
rich  foliage  lingers  in  my  memory.  It  is  a right 
royal  road — I know  of  none  more  lovely. 

We  were  soon  in  Tokio  with  Professor  and 
Mrs.  Newton.  Dr.  Walter  Lambuth  and  Rev. 
Mr.  Waters  awaited  our  arrival.  We  spent  a few 
days  in  attending  the  Conference  of  the  M.  E. 
Church,  then  in  session  in  the  city.  We  also  vis- 
ited their  buildings,  and  could  not  but  hope  that  very 
soon  our  Board  will  be  able  to  provide  comfortable 
mission  homes  and  school  premises.  I was  moved 
with  a not  irreligious  envy  when  I saw  how  com- 
fortable are  their  surroundings  for  the  great  work 
they  do ; and  believing  we  are  called  to  the  same, 
I look  to  a full  equipment  of  our  own  Mission,  that 
we  too  may  have  a share  in  turning  this  heathen 
multitude  to  serve  the  living  God.  We  own  no 
property  in  this  land.  We  have  a faithful  band  of 
men  and  women,  courageous  and  cheerful,  know- 
ing the  hinderances,  but  pressing  on.  There  is  no 
reason  why  we  should  not  be  abreast  with  the  fore- 
most in  the  enterprises  which  will  bring  Japan  to 
Christ.  We  have  but  to  see  and  use  our  oppor- 
tunity in  order  to  bear  many  sheaves  into  the  pres- 
ence of  the  Lord  of  the  harvest. 

Tokio  is  a spacious  city.  It  extends  between 
five  and  six  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  about 


Japanese  Cities  and  Towns.  31 

seven  from  north  to  south,  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
Bay  of  Yeddo.  The  city  is  not  so  closely  built 
but  that  room  is  found  within  its  bounds  for  sev- 
eral tea  and  mulberry  plantations.  In  the  center 
was  the  old  castle  of  the  Shoguns,  which  was  de- 
stroyed by  fire  soon  after  the  restoration  of  the 
Mikado,  leaving  only  the  moats  and  parts  of  the 
massive  walls  which  encircled  it.  In  the  streets 
around  the  castle  are  the  Government  Buildings, 
the  German  and  English  Legations,  the  Engineer- 
ing College,  and  other  modern  buildings.  Here 
are  also  two  Shinto  temples.  Shintoism  is  the 
old  national  religion  of  Japan — a sort  of  nature- 
worship,  with  no  God  and  no  future  life.  There 
are  many  points  of  interest  to  the  sight-seer — 
temples,  palaces,  gardens,  and  public  buildings. 
Our  time,  and  the  special  purpose  of  our  coming, 
permitted  but  an  imperfect  glimpse  of  them,  ^wo 
great  and  notable  temples  deserve  a few  words. 
The  temple  of  Kwanon  is  approached  by  a broad 
way,  lined  on  each  side  with  toy-shops,  tea-stands, 
wares  of  various  kinds,  and  every  thing  to  entice  a 
purchaser.  It  was  a bustling  scene.  Within,  the 
temple  was  thronged  with  worshipers  casting  their 
coin  into  the  treasury,  paying  their  devotions  at 
the  main  altar,  or  seeking  the  aid  of  the  god  of 
wealth,  god  of  healing,  or  any  other  special  idol 


32  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

whose  interposition  they  needed.  The  god  of 
healing  grants  his  favors  to  his  own  detriment. 
The  patient  rubs  his  hand  over  that  part  of  the  im- 
age which  in  his  own  body  is  the  seat  of  disease ; 
the  hand  being  charged  with  healing  power,  he 
no  sooner  rubs  the  suffering  member  than  health 
is  imparted.  All  the  healing  gods  that  I saw  in 
Japan  and  China  had  been  rubbed  by  the  believing 
sick  till  they  were  almost  faceless,  headless,  arm- 
less, footless.  What  depraved  instinct  induced 
the  makers  of  these  gods  to  set  them  before  their 
worshipers  as  the  very  incarnation  of  ugliness? 
This  temple  has  a praying  machine  or  wheel.  I 
did  not  see  it  at  work.  As  it  revolves  the  prayer 
is  put  in,  and  the  proper  answer  returned. 

Another  temple  of  great  interest  is  that  at  Shiba 
— rather,  it  is  a cluster  of  temples,  set  in  the  midst 
of  a juperb  park,  heavily  shaded  and  adorned  with 
innumerable  granite  and  bronze  lanterns  peculiar 
to  Japanese  temples.  These  are  among  the  most 
celebrated  of  the  thousands  of  temples  of  this 
country,  and  must  have  cost  immense  sums  of 
money,  with  their  lacquered  floors,  columns,  ta- 
bles, gorgeous  gilt  and  silk  hangings  and  bronze- 
work  adorning  altar  and  shrine.  Nikko  alone  can 
compare  with  Shiba  in  the  elaborate  and  costly 
carving  and  furniture  of  its  temples. 


Japanese  Cities  and  Tozvns.  33 

We  took  a little  time  to  look  through  the  shops, 
where  there  are  so  many  pretty  things,  the  Jap- 
anese being  the  most  artistic  of  people.  Yester- 
day we  returned  to  this  city,  whence  in  a few  hours 
we  will  sail  for  Kobe.  We  had  a jinrikisha  ride 
of  two  or  three  hours  over  the  native  city  of  Yoko- 
hama. The  women  are  very  sweet-looking,  and 
their  dress  pretty:  the  skirts  of  the  latter  are  too 
narrow  for  graceful  walking,  but  as  they  stand  the 
effect  of  coiffure  and  garments  is  attractive.  A 
visit  to  one  of  the  public  gardens  was  interesting. 
I saw  few  flowers,  but  the  trees  and  green  plants 
were  very  flourishing,  and  trained  into  most  gro- 
tesque shapes. 

We  have  looked  through  several  magnificent 
establishments  where  are  superb  curios.  The  cloi- 
sonne ware  is  quite  tempting.  I admired  a plaque 
whose  decoration  was  a gorgeous  rooster:  price, 
fifty  dollars.  The  same,  except  more  elaborate, 
in  embroidery  was  likewise  very  beautiful.  Lac- 
quer cabinets  inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl  and  ivory 
figures,  worth  from  five  hundred  to  five  thousand 
dollars,  are  superb.  All  manner  of  bric-a-brac  of 
various  sizes  and  shapes  charm  the  eye.  I greatly 
admired  a small  ivory  box  representing  a bag  of 
wheat,  into  which  a dozen  carved  mice  had  found 
their  way:  the  little  fellows  had  eaten  through,  and 
3 


34  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

were  scrambling  over  and  around  each  other  in 
great  confusion.  Price,  fifty  dollars. 

We  have  spent  several  hours  in  writing  for  the 
mail  of  to-day.  Au  revoir. 


LETTER  IV. 


THE  MISSION  WORK  AND  WORKERS  IN  JAPAN. 

Kobe,  September  3,  1888. 


E left  Yokohama  August  29,  arriving  here 


thirty  hours  after,  and  were  all  the  way  on 


the  edge  of  a typhoon.  The  sea  was  very  rough. 
The  steamer  rolled  and  pitched — now  up,  now 
down,  fore  and  aft,  to  the  right  and  left — until  I 
wondered  if  we  should  live  to  tell  the  story.  I suf- 
fered from  a touch  of  seasickness,  which  for  a 
time  made  me  very  miserable ; but  I recall  with  sat- 
isfaction the  effort  our  steamer  made  to  surmount 
the  angry  waves.  Arriving  in  this  harbor,  the 
storm  increased  so  that  the  captain  would  notvent- 
ture  into  shore.  A sampan  made  its  way  out  to 
us,  and  notwithstanding  the  heavy  sea  we  scram- 
bled into  the  little  boat.  At  every  toss  of  the 
waves  it  looked  as  though  we  would  be  swallowed 
in  the  waters,  and  afterward  I was  told  we  were  in 
actual  danger.  In  due  time  we  were  with  our 
friends,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  J.  W.  Lambuth. 

On  Friday,  August  31,  the  Annual  Meeting  con- 
vened. All  the  missionaries  except  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Wainright  were  present;  Drs.  J.  W.  and  W.  R. 


(35) 


36  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

Lambuth,  Dr.  O.  A.  Dukes  (Texas  Confer- 
ence), C.  B.  Moseley  (Arkansas  Conference),  J. 
C.  C.  Newton  and  B.  W.  Waters  (Baltimore  Con- 
ference), N.  W.  Utley  (Memphis  Conference), 
and  Miss  Gaines,  the  only  lady  in  any  field  under 
appointment  of  the  Parent  Board.  Dr.  J.  W. 
Lambuth  has  given,  since  his  residence  here,  the 
largest  room  of  his  house  (it  has  but  four)  for  the 
use  of  the  Mission.  Here  are  held  the  Bible 
classes,  day-schools,  night-schools,  the  Sunday 
services,  and  all  business  meetings;  and  here  the 
brethren  were  assembled  in  Annual  Meeting,  to- 
gether with  Mrs.  J.-W.  and  Mrs.  W.  R.  Lambuth, 
who  are  invited  to  give  an  account  of  their  work 
which  has  been  so  valuable  to  the  Mission.  They 
are  truly  fellow-helpers  in  the  gospel  of  Christ. 

After  a half-hour  of  devotional  exercises  the  ex- 
amination of  the  year’s  work  and  of  the  coming 
needs  was  begun.  The  report  of  Dr.  J.  W. 
Lambuth,  oldest  of  the  Mission  and  first  in  the 
field,  was  received  with  the  interest  and  attention 
it  deserved.  Ilis  work  has  been  chiefly  in  Kobe 
and  the  adjacent  country,  although  occasionally 
he  goes  off  on  a hundred  or  a hundred  and  fifty 
miles’  itinerating  trip.  His  labor  has  been  fruit- 
ful of  good — singularly  so,  considering  that  other 
missions  were  here,  and  that  he  has  had  to  work 


37 


Annual  Meeting  in  Kobe. 

through  interpreters.  A good  membership  given 
to  faithful  labor,  a general  religious  interest,  col- 
lections for  mission-work,  church-building,  and 
the  poor,  attest  Brother  Lambuth’s  fidelity  and 
God’s  blessing.  A token  for  good  was  recently 
given  him.  A number  have  renounced  their  idols, 
and  on  last  Sunday  he  baptized  thirteen  of  these 
men  and  women. 

Mrs.  Lambuth’s  report  was  of  like  interest. 
She  has  taught  daily,  first  a school  for  ladies,  com- 
prising Biblical,  literary,  and  industrial  training. 
Many,  both  married  and  unmarried,  would  have 
been  pleased  to  come  to  her  from  a distance,  but 
she  had  not  room  to  receive  them  into  her  house. 
Her  afternoons  are  given  to  a class  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen — one  of  the  latter  being  director  of 
the  commercial  school — who  study  English;  in 
this  labor  she  often  has  opportunity  to  speak  of 
her  Bible.  At  night  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Lambuth  have 
a school  of  gentlemen,  who  are  eager  to  study  the 
Scriptures.  And  fourth,  a weekly  Bible  class  in- 
terests her.  I joined  in  the  lesson  of  the  present 
week,  which  was  the  account  of  the  marriage  at 

7 O 

Cana  of  Galilee.  The  class  was  interested  and 
interesting. 

Dr.  Dukes  made  a characteristic  report.  Ilis 
work  has  been  systematic,  planned  and  regulated 


38  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

by  day  and  hour.  Osaka  is  his  center  and  head- 
quarters, though  his  residence  is  temporarily  in 
Kobe;  and  the  stations  on  the  railroad  between 
these  two  cities  are  the  appointments  of  his  cir- 
cuit. Starting  in  the  early  morning,  he  stops  at 
the  first  station,  and  for  an  hour  teaches  his  Bible 
class;  then  to  the  second,  where  another  hour  is 
spent  in  like  manner;  and  so  on  through  the  round 
— and  this  three  or  four  times  a week.  Preaching 
through  an  interpreter,  the  same  sermon  goes  the 
round  of  these  classes.  He  smiled  as  he  remarked 
during  the  further  account  that  he  was  learning  to 
do  his  best  work  on  retreat,  for  it  had  been  his 
poor  fortune  to  receive,  when  he  thought  himself 
well  posted,  an  order  to  leave — a Buddhist  priest 
somewhere  behind  it.  We  own  no  property  in 
Japan,  and  there  was  nothing  to  do  but  vacate. 

Mr.  Utley  and  Dr.  Wainright  have  so  lately  ar- 
rived that  their  reports  are  of  course  meager. 
The  former  was  elected  Secretary  of  the  Annual 
Meeting,  and  the  latter’s  written  statement  showed 
that  he  had  impressed  at  least  one  man.  He  was 
teaching  parliamentary  tactics,  when  a student  rose 
and  nominated  himself  president  of  the  class. 

Prof.  J.  C.  C.  Newton,  of  the  Biblical  School  at 
Tokio,  reported  his  prospect  good.  He  will  have 
several  theological  students  in  his  care  next  year. 


A nnual  Meeting  in  Kobe.  39 

Miss  Gaines,  sent  out  by  the  Board  of  Missions 
one  year  ago,  has  been  with  Mrs.  Walter  Lam- 
buth  at  Hiroshima,  and  is  a practical  woman  with 
“ willing  heart”  and  busy  hands.  She  and  Mrs. 
Lambuth  have  a Sunday-school  of  two  hundred  in 
that  city.  The  Superintendent  being  on  the  wing 
all  the  time,  any  work  in  Hiroshima  has  been  the 
result  of  the  labor  of  these  two  ladies.  They  ac- 
knowledge their  indebtedness  to  their  native  helper, 
who  has  a heaven-born  gift  in  the  management  of 
children.  When  he  speaks  every  eye  is  turned 
on  him,  and  the  two  hundred  boys  and  girls  sit 
upon  their  heels  after  the  Japanese  fashion  until 
he  releases  them.  Miss  Gaines  is  engaged  in 
day-schools,  while  Mrs.  Lambuth  has  an  industrial 
class.  They  both  visit  among  the  people,  and  at 
all  times  endeavor  to  show  how  Christian  women 
should  live,  and  that  nothing  is  worth  doing  or 
having  without  God’s  blessing.  They  meet  with 
difficulties,  but  are  not  cast  down.  Perhaps  they 
return  to  the  conflict  with  greater  zeal  after  a strug- 
gle. The  wife  of  the  governor,  a very  strong 
woman  and  a determined  Buddhist,  opposes  them 
on  all  sides.  Finding  their  schools  and  literary 
societies  very  effective,  she  organized  like  work, 
in  some  cases  requiring  the  members  of  our  ladies’ 
classes  to  join  her. 


40  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

Mrs.  Wainright  has  begun  teaching,  though  so 
lately  arrived.  Dr.  Wainright  is  a Missouri  lay- 
man whom  God  called  to  Japan:  so  sure  was  he 
that  the  “Come  over  and  help  us”  was  spoken  to 
him  that  he  and  Mrs.  Wainright  are  here  at  their 
own  charges.  The  Board  accepted  him,  but  had 
not  the  money  to  send  him  and  his  wife.  They 
came,  and  are  supporting  themselves  by  teaching 
in  Government  schools:  the}r  give  every  hour 

outside  of  this  engagement  to  the  service  which 
brought  them  to  Japan. 

Mr.  Moseley  has  been  in  poor  health  during  the 
entire  year,  hence  his  report  was  not  extended. 
He  had  not  succumbed  to  suffering,  but  was  un- 
able to  do  all  he  had  hoped.  The  battle  is  not  al- 
ways to  the  strong.  Mr.  Waters  has  stood  his 
year  like  a veteran : he  has  had  no  trial  of  sick- 
ness, but  has  worked  steadily.  He  was  in  Oita 
until  Dr.  Wainright’s  arrival,  and  made  a consid- 
erable impression.  Several  told  him  they  would 
study  “the  new  doctrine.”  O that  these  men 
may  be  not  only  “almost”  but  altogether  persuad- 
ed to  accept  the  one  hepe  of  the  world!  One  of 
them  said  to  him:  “I  want  to  learn  your  religion, 
but  not  bad  enough  to  give  up  some  things.”  He 
does  not  know  that  he  must  be  either  for  or  against 
the  Lord  of  life — that  he  cannot  serve  our  God 


Annual  Meeting  in  Kobe.  41 

with  divided  heart.  The  governor  of  the  ken  had 
been  so  attentive  and  helpful  in  many  ways  that 
Mr.  Waters  thought  he  must  offer  him  the  hospi- 
tality of  his  domicile,  even  though  it  were  a bach- 
elor household.  His  simple  arrangements  for  the 
high  official  pleased  me  greatly.  Notwithstanding 
his  incomplete  outfit  and  inexperienced  servants, 
he  gave  his  orders  and  entered  upon  his  duties  as 
host  with  as  much  pleasure  as  though  a most  ac- 
complished wife  were  smoothing  all  difficulties 
from  his  way.  I doubt  not  that  host  and  guest 
passed  a happy  hour. 

All  the  reports  and  discussions  at  the  Annual 
Meeting  were  very  interesting.  Much  of  the  work 
of  the  past  two  years  has  been  made  known  to  the 
Church  by  the  stirring  letters  of  our  brethren  from 
time  to  time,  but  neither  they  nor  we  can  make  vivid 
to  you,  as  to  us,  the  unrest  of  the  people — perhaps 
I may  say  the  yearning  after  the  “Unknown  God.” 
They  have  sent  time  and  again  to  our  missionaries, 
asking  for  teachers  and  instruction,  and  turning 
away  with  disappointment  when  the  answer  comes, 
“No  one  to  go.”  Hardly  has  a fairer  field  ever 
invited  to  missionary  effort.  Not  only  is  the  coun- 
try beautiful,  but  the  disposition  of  the  people  is 
gentle  and  altogether  favorable  to  intercourse  with 
foreigners.  All  classes  enter  freely  into  friendly 


42  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

association  with  our  representatives.  No  obstruc- 
tion is  placed  in  the  way  of  Bible-teaching.  True, 
the  Bible  is  not  in  Government  schools;  but  it  is 
well  known  that  every  Christian  who  has  place 
there  founds  his  religion  on  that  Word,  and  that 
in  his  private  intercourse  with  his  students  he  tells 
but  one  story — the  story  of  the  Scriptures.  Tak- 
ing all  we  heard  during  the  Conference  into  con- 
sideration, together  with  the  character  of  the  na- 
tives, the  facility  of  intercourse,  and  the  history 
of  our  Mission  during  its  short  two  years,  we  can- 
not but  conclude  that  “the  field  is  white  to  har- 
vest.” To  me  it  is  remarkable  that  none  of  these 
men  assembled  in  Kobe  appear  to  be  discouraged, 
although  they  see  that  they  are  unequal  to  the  de- 
mand. “The  laborers  are  few,”  but  each  man 
seems  determined  to  do  his  utmost.  Like  the 
woman  of  old,  they  will  hear  a welcome  voice, 
after  awhile,  saying,  “They  have  done  what  they 
could.” 

I attended  the  Missionary  x\nniversary,  which 
was  as  enthusiastic  as  any  I have  known  at  home. 
The  native  Church  took  great  delight  in  the  occa- 
sion. The  organization  is  for  the  furtherance  of 
evangelistic  work,  and  the  arranging  of  plans  for 
the  expenses  of  the  native  itinerant,  as  well  as  for 
the  students  who  are  to  be  educated.  Every  for- 


Annual  Meeting  in  Kobe.  43 

eign  missionary  needs  his  interpreter  and  helper, 
which  he  may  now  hope  to  find  in  the  outcome  of 
this  society.  The  past  year  two  Biblical  students 
have  been  sent  off  to  school,  and  six  more  will 
go  at  the  beginning  of  the  session.  The  entire 
expenses  of  these  eight — tuition,  board,  and  trav- 
eling— will  be  met  by  this  self-sacrificing  band 
during  the  four  years  of  study  necessary  in  prep- 
aration for  their  ministry.  Is  not  this  a wonderful 
outcome?  Not  only  that  the  native  Church  is  thus 
devoted,  but  also  that  there  are  those  who  so  look 
for  the  coming  of  the  kingdom  of  our  Lord  that 
they  are  willing  to  give  themselves  to  its  further- 
ance. Not  very  long  ago  they  “ bowed  down  to 
wood  and  stone.”  Now  some  of  them  “count 
not  their  lives  dear  unto  them”  for  the  name  of  the 
Lord  Jesus.  Several  have  been  driven  from  home 
and  are  outcasts.  One  came  with  lacerated  back. 


A day  or  two  has  intervened  since  I wrote  the 
above.  The  pressure  for  a man  to  go  to  one  of 
the  towns  a hundred  miles  away,  where  there  is  a 
protracted  call,  induced  the  Superintendent  to  ask 
for  a volunteer  to  hold  the  place  till  the  Board  is 
able  to  send  out  another  missionary.  He  put  it  to 
the  conscience  of  the  Church,  and  called  them  to 
private  prayer  and  faith,  that  Go’d  would  move 


44  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

upon  the  heart  of  one  able  to  do  the  required  work. 
Two  or  perhaps  three  days  passed,  when  one 
of  the  proposed  students  expressed  his  willing- 
ness to  forego  the  Biblical  School  for  the  pres- 
ent, that  he  might  begin  at  once  to  tell  the  story  of 
the  cross. 

Also,  the  Church  Extension  Society  has  done  a 
noble  work.  During  the  last  few  months  a suf- 
ficient sum  has  been  raised  to  build  the  first  M.  E. 
Church,  South,  in  Japan,  which  will  be  ready  for 
dedication  in  a month’s  time,  the  cost  being  one 
thousand  dollars.  If  the  amount  for  furnishing  is 
not  in  hand  at  completion,  the  congregation  will 
go  in  Japanese  fashion,  sitting  upon  the  floor. 
How  God  will  speak  by  those  seven  young  stu- 
dents in  years  to  come ! And  how  often  will  he 
be  in  the  midst  of  these  four  walls,  to  bless  his 
people,  to  convince  the  unbeliever,  and  confound 
Buddhism  and  infidelity ! The  glory  of  the  Lord 
will  fill  his  house  ! It  shall  be  called  by  the  name 
of  the  one  Eternal  God. 

I have  been  stirred  as  I sat  with  these  peo- 
ple day  after  day.  On  one  side  are  sweet-faced 
women,  toil-worn  women,  young  and  old,  who  so 
lately  had  not  heard  the  name  of  Jesus,  with  their 
hearts  settled  in  the  love  of  God.  On  the  other 
side  are  young  men  who  had  expected  position  and 


Annual  Meeting  in  Kobe.  45 

money  and  entire  satisfaction  in  the  faith  of  their 
fathers,  or  poor  men  who  never  hoped  for  any 
thing  but  hard  work,  now  seated  at  the  feet  of  Je- 
sus “ clothed  and  in  their  right  minds.”  One  of 
these  in  daily  attendance  was  making  seventy- 
five  dollars  a month,  but  renounced  it  for  pastoral 
work  and  twenty-five  dollars — a successful  man, 
exchanging  the  gains  of  secular  life  for  the  gains 
of  godliness  ! Another  came  to  Dr.  Lambuth,  say- 
ing he  had  seen  the  worldly  side  of  foreign  life, 
but  hearing  there  was  another  and  better,  he  de- 
sired to  be  taught  it.  Another  was  summoned  to 
the  bedside  of  his  father,  extremely  ill.  He  went, 
expecting  to  be  excommunicated  as  soon  as  he 
should  tell  of  the  change  in  his  faith  and  hope.  He 
found  father  and  mother  making  two  daily  sacri- 
fices at  the  domestic  shrine,  and  when  he  told  “ the 
old,  old  story,”  they  begged  to  be  let  alone,  say- 
ing they  “were  too  old  to  change.”  However, 
he  continued  to  pray  and  persuade,  and  to-day 
the  old  people  are  Christians.  One  of  the  young 
women  has  lately  been  in  an  agony  of  prayer  for 
her  husband,  and  last  Sunday  he  was  among  the 
baptized. 

Two  families  have  joined  us.  Not  very  long 
ago  Dr.  Walter  Lambuth’s  cook  prayed  for  that 
poor  Methodist  Church  that  had  only  one  member, 


46  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

and  not  one  woman.  Now,  we  may  thank  Heaven 
for  scores  of  members,  and  also  that  families  are 
coming  to  us.  Another,  a lady  who  kept  boarders, 
had  in  her  house  two  brothers  with  their  sister 
whom  they  treated  unkindly.  After  a time  a change 
took  place  in  the  behavior  of  the  two  men:  they 
became  gentle  and  affectionate  to  their  sister. 
The  lady  wondered,  and  on  inquiry  found  that 
they  had  been  attending  Dr.  Lambuth’s  sendees, 
and  had  sought  and  obtained  the  grace  of  our 
Lord  Jesus  Christ.  She  decided  that  what  had 
transformed  them  was  worth  having,  and  she  too 
sat  with  us  these  last  days. 

So  the  work  grows.  No  wonder  our  brethren 
come  together  with  hope  and  joy,  notwithstanding 
the  “ many  adversaries  ” that  oppose  their  entrance 
into  this  “great  and  effectual  door.”  It  is  not 
easy  for  you  to  imagine  the  untoward  conditions 
of  work  here.  The  bitter  prejudice  of  race  and 
religion ; the  wide-spread  and  deep-rooted  immo- 
rality, personal  and  social,  the  result  of  long  cycles 
of  idolatry;  the  revival  of  Buddhism,  its  incorpo- 
ration of  new  methods  of  aggressive  movement 
to  enable  it  to  check  and  suppress  the  growth  of 
Christian  thought  and  life ; the  alliance  with  hea- 
thenism of  the  material  philosophy  of  Europe  and 
the  recently  imported  unitarianism  of  America — 


Annual  Meeting  in  Kobe.  47 

all  these  forces  of  evil  require  on  the  part  of  Chris- 
tian missionaries  great  watchfulness,  patience,  la- 
bor, and  prayer. 

If  our  Board  could  organize  a training-school 
for  Bible-women  at  once,  with  a four  years’  course 
of  the  Bible,  Evidences  of  Christianity,  Life  of 
Christ,  biographical  sketches  of  good  men  and 
women,  sacred  music,  and  some  branches  of  in- 
dustrial work,  there  would  from  time  to  time  be 
sent  out  devout  native  women  to  work  among  the 
mothers  of  Japan;  and  given  the  mothers,  the 
children  will  soon  be  the  Lord’s.  If  we  are  to 
have  a permanent  footing,  boarding-schools  for 
both  sexes  must  be  established.  Furthermore,  no 
substitute  for  education  will  answer.  The  Gov- 
ernment schools  furnish  a good  curriculum.  We 
must  offer  the  same  advantages,  with  the  addition 
of  an  open  Bible.  Christian  education  they  must 
have,  or  the  present  generation  will  be  confirmed 
in  infidelity  before  they  arrive  at  mature  years. 
“Behold,  now  is  the  accepted  time;  behold, 
now  is  the  day  of  salvation;”  and  in  this  last 
struggle  with  ignorance,  vice,  ahd  infidelity,  we 
need  to  exert  all  our  powers.  Much  has  been 
done,  but  much  remains  to  be  done.  A great 
revolution  is  at  hand;  in  the  meantime,  the  dark- 
ness of  hell  begun  on  earth  holds  Japan.  Con- 


48  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

quered  for  our  King,  this  lovely  land  will  put  on 
new  beauty,  these  green  hills  will  sing  for  jo}r. 

The  Church  has  always  had  the  extension  of 
the  kingdom  of  Christ  at  heart.  She  expects  ev- 
ery man  to  let  his  light  shine.  Our  Lord  said, 
“Ye  are  the  light  of  the  world;  ” and  Paul  wrote, 
“Among  whom  ye  shine  as  lights.”  It  was  meant 
that  wherever  the  gospel  was  received,  from  thence 
the  glad  tidings  should  be  sent  on  and  on  till  the 
ends  of  the  earth  shall  sing  of  redeeming  love. 
And  in  order  to  have  a part  in  this  work  our 
Church  must  not  be  satisfied  with  what  she  has  al- 
ready accomplished.  The  generosity  of  yesterday 
will  not  suffice  for  to-day.  The  giving  grace  of 
last  }-ear  must  be  continued  and  increased.  God 
means  us  to  be  constantly  giving,  the  proof  being 
that  new  opportunities  are  constantly  afforded.  A 
fresh  call  requires  a fresh  gift 


(49) 


VIEW  ON  THE  INLAND  ,SEA. 


LETTER  Y. 


FIRST  TRIP  ON  THE  INLAND  SEA— THE  MISSOURI  LAYMAN’S 
SCHOOL. 


E left  Kobe  on  the  13th  for  this  city,  which  is 


on  Kiushiu,  next  to  the  largest  island  in  the 
empire.  Our  mode  of  traveling  was  on  the  “ ko- 
joki,”  a small  steamer  used  along  the  coast,  and 
absolutely  without  comforts.  Travelers  provide 
bedding  and  lunch  for  themselves,  finding  water 
for  morning  ablutions  as  best  they  can.  I expect- 
ed that  the  primitive  style  of  pouring  water  from  a 
dipper  on  my  hands  would  be  my  only  resort,  and 
but  for  the  kind  provision  of  Dr.  Lambuth  so  it 
would  have  been.  There  was  no  gangway.  Our 
entrance  was  made  by  climbing  through  the  * ‘ port  ’ ’ 
into  a low  passage-way  where  a person  could  not 
stand  erect.  The  “first-class”  cabin  had  been 
engaged  for  us,  and,  having  heard  of  the  discom- 
forts of  the  little  steamers,  I was  greatly  elated  at 
the  prospect  of  such  pleasant  provision.  Imag- 
ine our  surprise  when  we  found  this  elegant  ac- 
commodation to  be  a closet  ten  feet  by  five,  so  that 
when  your  father  and  I,  the  two  Drs.  Lambuth, 


Oita,  September  20,  1S8S. 


4 


(49) 


50  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

and  our  Japanese  friend,  Mr.  Kinoshita,  were  set- 
tled for  the  night,  our  sachels  had  to  be  moved 
out,  so  that  we  would  not  be  crowded!  When 
I looked  into  the  “ second-class  ” cabin,  through 
which  we  passed  to  reach  our  room,  I was  satis- 
fied. It  was  closely  packed  with  thirty  or  forty 
men  and  women,  as  many  as  could  find  room  on 
the  floor — for  in  Japan  there  are  neither  chairs  nor 
bedsteads.  The  “second-class”  cabin  is  general- 
ly the  best  room  on  the  boat.  Our  missionaries 
go  back  and  forth  on  the  Inland  Sea,  glad  if  there 
is  space  enough  for  them  to  lie  down  in  those 
crowded  quarters.  When  we  went  aboard  it  was 
time  to  retire,  and  having  spread  our  blankets  we 
laid  ourselves  down  and  slept  reasonably  well. 
The  next  day  was  perfect.  The  water  was  with- 
out ripple,  the  sunshine  delightful,  and  the  air  soft 
as  in  May.  There  was  no  space  for  promenade, 
so  your  father  read,  the  Drs.  Lambuth  studied 
Japanese  with  Mr.  Kinoshita,  and  I found  some 
sewing  very  entertaining.  Whatever  wre  did,  a 
crowd  gathered  about  us.  My  light  hair  and  eyes 
were  very  surprising  to  those  who  had  never  been 
in  the  port  cities.  They  examined  my  dress,  took 
my  sewing  out  of  my  hands,  passing  it  round  for 
inspection,  and  seemed  greatly  amused  at  the  num- 
ber of  buttons  I used. 


51 


First  Trip  on  the  Inland  Sea. 

Another  night,  and  at  daylight  we  landed  at 
Oita.  After  a jinrikisha  ride  of  two  miles,  we 
were  with  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Wainright,  a young  lay- 
man and  his  wife  from  Missouri.  They  begin  the 
day  at  six  o’clock  by  a public  prayer-meeting. 
We  were  scarcely  at  home  with  them  when  the 
Doctor  invited  us  to  this  early  service,  where  we 
found  an  assembly  of  about  forty.  An  hour  was 
occupied  in  singing,  conversation,  and  prayer. 
Then  came  breakfast  and  family  prayer,  where  a 
half-dozen  Japanese,  with  Bible  in  hand,  joined 
Dr.  Wainright  in  the  Scripture  lesson. 

Immediately  after  this  service  their  school-work 
begins;  and  it  continues  until  three  p.m.,  save  an 
hour’s  intermission  at  noon.  At  four  p.m.,  and 
again  at  seven  o’clock,  large  classes  assembled  to 
study  the  Bible.  Last  night  I counted  fifty  pres- 
ent. It  must  be  that  of  this  number  there  shall  in 
the  future  be  some  who  will  bear  the  “good  ti- 
dings” to  their  countrymen,  and  at  the  end  have 
an  “ abundant  entrance  ” into  “ the  city  which  hath 
foundations.” 

Mrs.  Wainright’s  cook  has  begun  to  study  the 
Scriptures.  He  tried  the  Book  of  Revelation 
first,  and  having  no  knowledge  of  what  went  be- 
fore, you  will  not  be  surprised  that  he  went  to  the 
Doctor  with  fifteen  questions:  the  wonder  is  that 


52  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

he  had  not  a hundred  explanations  to  seek,  and 
indeed  I suspect  this  would  have  been  the  outcome 
had  not  our  friend  changed  the  order.  The  same 
man  practiced  praying  because  he  liked  the  look 
of  it  and  wanted  to  join  us,  having  no  idea  that 
prayer  is  the  outpouring  of  the  soul  before  God. 

One  of  the  young  men  in  daily  attendance  upon 
the  Bible  study  will  devote  himself  to  the  ministry, 
and  will  be  sent  by  the  membership  in  Oita  to  the 
school  in  Tokio.  His  call  to  preach  came  out  of 
severe  trial  and  persecution.  He  came  here  to  the 
Government  School,  and  providentially  came  un- 
der the  influence  of  our  friend,  and  very  soon 
under  the  influence  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  He  re- 
cently returned  to  his  father’s  house.  A relative 
had  just  died,  and  the  family,  about  to  make  the 
ancestral  offerings,  demanded  that  he  join  in  the 
worship.  This  he  refused  to  do.  The  father  had 
him  taken  to  the  grave  by  force,  otherwise  treated 
him  brutally,  and  excommunicated  him  from  the 
household.  He  is  forbidden  to  call  himself  a son. 
Then,  in  that  hour  of  sorrow,  he  resolved  to  spend 
his  life  in  telling  the  story  of  the  one  living  God. 

When  we  go  on  the  street  we  are  always  fol- 
lowed by  a crowd.  Mrs.  Wainright  and  I are  the 
only  foreign  ladies  that  hundreds  of  the  people 
here  and  in  neighboring  villages  ever  saw.  Men, 


53 


First  Trip  on  the  Inland  Sea. 

women,  and  children  run  after  our  jinrikishas  to 
catch  a glimpse  of  our  faces.  Monsters  that  we 
are,  now  and  then  the  babies  are  frightened  and 
scamper  away  screaming  for  protection. 

After  being  in  Oita  several  days,  I find  myself 
greatly  interested  in  the  gentlemen  who  visit  Dr. 
Wainright.  They  are  men  who  have  been  well 
educated,  and  are  quite  equal  to  many  of  the 
A.B.’s  and  A.M.’s  of  the  United  States  of  Amer- 
ica. Evidently  they  enjoy  the  society  of  our  Mis- 
souri layman,  who  does  not  think  that  at  this  time 
they  have  any  desire  for  “spiritual  gifts.”  I ex- 
pect this  almost  daily  intercourse  will  prepare  their 
minds  so  that  the  Holy  Ghost  can  take  hold  of  their 
hearts  and  make  them  fit  temples  for  his  indwell- 
ing. There  are  others,  especially  those  who  are 
regularly  at  the  Bible  classes,  who  impress  me; 
notably  a young  girl  of  perhaps  fourteen  years  of 
age — whose  mother  sold  her  for  a period  of  two 
years,  and  whose  bondage  is  now  ended — who 
comes  to  the  Scripture  study  regularly.  O that 
she,  like  that  other  woman  eighteen  hundred  years 
ago,  may  hear  the  Master’s  voice  of  forgiveness, 
with  the  “ Go,  and  sin  no  more  ! ” 

Mrs.  Wainright  and  I to-day  called  on  a beautiful 
little  lady,  the  wife  of  one  of  the  Doctor’s  visit- 
ors. He  speaks  English,  and  was  our  interpreter. 


54  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

She  is  not  more  than  eighteen  years  of  age, 
and  is  as  pretty  as  a picture.  Her  shining,  soft 
eyes,  clear  complexion,  line  hair,  and  gentle  ex- 
pression were  very  attractive.  She  wore  the  blue 
robe  of  her  race,  confined  at  the  waist,  and  was 
barefooted,  as  is  the  fashion  with  Japanese  ladies 
when  in  their  homes.  She  had  her  great  year-old 
boy  brought  in  for  our  admiration,  and  handsome 
as  he  was  I admired  her  so  much  that  I fear  I 
looked  less  at  him  than  she  expected.  Of  course 
tea  was  served,  and  with  it  smoke-dried  persim- 
mons, which  were  very  nice.  I suppose  she 
thought  women  are  “the  same  all  the  world 
over:  ” accordingly  she  brought  in  embroidered 
silk  robes  worn  by  her  grandmother  at  court  fifty 
years  ago.  We  admired  them  to  her  satisfaction, 
for  they  were  very  elegant.  I doubt  if  I get 
through  Japan  and  China  without  breaking  the 
tenth  commandment. 

We  expect  to  leave  to-night  at  twelve  o’clock, 
for  Hiroshima.  Our  parting  will  be  with  regret. 
Dr.  and  Mrs.  Wainright  are  both  young,  and  are 
the  only  foreigners  within  many  scores  of  miles. 
I am  beginning  to  see  what  it  is  to  be  alone  in  the 
midst  of  a heathen  population.  More  anon. 

P.  S. — November,  1S8S. 

I must  add  a sequel  paragraph.  Letters  from  Oita 


55 


First  Trij)  on  the  Inland  Sea. 

from  Dr.  Wainright  give  me  several  interesting 
items.  First,  the  father  of  the  young  man  who 
was  excluded  from  the  family  because  he  refused 
to  join  in  the  ancestral  worship  sent  a younger 
son,  who  had  been  a bad  boy,  to  Oita  to  school. 
He  afterward  wrote  to  the  Doctor  “that  for  fifteen 
years  he  had  worked  night  and  day  over  the  boy 
without  influencing  him,”  and  asked  the  new 
teacher  “how  he  had  made  a good  boy  out  of  him 
in  three  months.”  He  said  he  could  not  under- 
stand it;  nor  will  he  till^he  himself  is  transformed 
by  the  power  of  the  Holy  Spirit. 

Also,  a mother  is  attending  the  Bible  classes  be- 
cause she  wants  to  learn  about  the  God  who  has 
changed  her  son.  Is  it  not  so  that  the  change  in 
one  will  be  the  beginning  of  a work  in  the  family 
which  will  not  soon  end?  Also,  the  cook  who 
promised  to  “become  Christianity,”  and  who 
practiced  praying,  is  now  an  earnest  Christian 
worker.  And  one  of  the  gentlemen  of  whom  I 
spoke  is  a believer  in  our  God,  though  he  has 
not  yet  had  the  courage  to  make  a public  confes- 
sion. When  the  Doctor  spoke  of  the  boldness  of 
Dionysius,  the  Areopagite,  he  listened  with  intense 
interest,  and  said,  “I  wish  I were  like  him!” 
Will  not  God  give  him  the  grace  of  firmness? 
Amen,  and  amen ! 


LETTER  VI. 


MISSIONARY  AND  NATIVE  LIFE  IN  HIROSHIMA. 


Hiroshima,  September  30,  1S8S. 


EAVING  Oita,  we  were  two  days  and  nights 


in  the  kojoki  on  the  way  to  Hiroshima,  where 
the  family  of  the  Superintendent  lives — his  own 
head-quarters  being  “in  the  saddle.”  Our  kojoki 
had  not  improved  since  the  former  trip,  being  still 
a small  space  crowded  to  the  utmost.  There  were 
seventeen  young  ladies  on  board,  on  their  way  to 
school.  I wonder  how  it  will  be  with  them.  Will 
they  hear  of  Him  who  gave  himself  for  them? 
University  men,  who  mostly  take  on  the  German 
methods  of  thought,  will  have  charge  of  them. 
Perhaps  they  will  be  told  that  what  we  call  sin  is 
“bad  form,”  which  educated  and  refined  people 
avoid;  or,  may  be,  they  will  be  directly  indoctri- 
nated with  the  vile  immorality  of  the  day.  Every 
missionary  in  this  field  longs  to  have  a part  in  the 
training  of  these  young  people.  Seeing  their  de- 
termination to  be  educated,  and  knowing  the  dan- 
gers that  threaten  them,  these  devoted  men,  to- 
gether with  Miss  Gaines,  desire  the  equipment 
needful  to  the  prosecution  of  this  work.  The  way 


(56) 


Life  in  Hiroshima.  57 

that  seems  open  is  the  way  through  the  schools. 
Christian  education  is  the  handmaid  of  the  pulpit. 
Mothers  and  wives  being  the  Lord’s,  the  world 
will  soon  be  his.  Woman  has  the  energy  to  in- 
fluence and  the  tenderness  to  hold  the  position  in 
the  family  and  society  which  gives  her  the  oppor- 
tunity to  see  and  embrace  the  best  influences.  At 
the  Annual  Meeting  in  Kobe  it  was  shown  that  in 
three  places  our  work  during  the  past  year  was 
held  by  converted  Japanese  women  for  several 
months.  They  need  at  this  time  a little  help  from 
their  sisters  on  the  American  side  of  the  waters,  in 
order  to  begin  a work  whose  end  shall  not  come 
till  “the  heavens  shall  be  rolled  together  as  a 
scroll.” 

Our  missionaries  in  Japan  have  given  themselves 
to  this  people,  and  spend  a large  percentage  of 
their  salaries  in  adding  to  the  appropriations  of 
the  Board.  Miss  Gaines,  last  year,  paid  the  rent 
of  her  school-room.  She  will  do  it  again.  [No- 
vember i,  1889. — Since  writing  the  foregoing  I 
have  heard  that  Miss  Gaines,  Dr.  Lambuth,  and 
Mr.  Waters  put  together  what  funds  they  could 
command  in  order  to  secure  a building-lot.  Miss 
Gaines  stands  pledged  for  the  remainder.]  All 
of  our  representatives  in  this  empire  are  in  earnest, 
as  well  as  those  in  Hiroshima.  Who  will  help  to 


58  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

hold  up  these  hands,  which  may  grow  “heavy” 
unless  they  be  “stayed?”  As  Moses’s  hands 
were  “steady  until  the  going  down  of  the  sun” 
while  Aaron  and  Ilur  held  them,  so  that  Amalek 
was  discomfited,  our  friends  will  prevail  against 
Satan  if  the  Church  “stand  on  the  top  of  the 
hill”  calling  on  the  name  of  the  Lord.  But  I 
doubt  if  the  Church  stands  on  the  top  of  the  hill 
that  refuses  an  abundant  offering  to  such  calls  of 
the  Lord  God. 

Notwithstanding  our  poor  accommodations  on 
the  kojoki,  the  journey  was  full  of  interest;  for 
our  way  was  through  the  Inland  Sea,  bounded  on 
both  sides  by  green  hill-tops,  and  along  whose 
coast  I could  well  believe  the  Garden  of  Eden  was 
located,  if  beauty  alone  decided  that  chosen  spot. 
The  channel  winds  in  and  out,  around  island  after 
island,  each  one  prettier  than  the  last,  or  sharply 
turns  at  the  mountain-side  where  terrace  on  terrace 
of  rice-fields  rise  to  the  summit.  In  every  little 
cove  nestles  a village,  while  in  every  bay  float  a 
dozen  junks.  I am  sure  if  I could  paint  these 
emerald  islands  that  rival  “ Green  Erin,”  and  these 
blue  waters,  our  people  would  covet  this  entire  re- 
gion, with  its  hungering  thousands,  for  Christ. 
To  girdle  this  sea  would  be  an  achievement  worthy 
of  our  best  effort.  When  we  took  root  in  this  soil 


Life  in  Hiroshima.  59 

there  was  but  one  missionary  and  two  or  three  na- 
tive helpers  on  all  the  inland  coast.  We  are  here 
with  the  prospect  of  great  success.  True  the  out- 
posts are  scarcely  manned,  but  all  are  so  devoted 
and  enthusiastic  that  with  that  help  which  is  prom- 
ised to  them  who  go  upon  this  warfare  there  can 
be  no  failure.  Girded,  with  staff  in  hand,  each 
man  is  preparing  to  move  forward  as  opportunity 
opens  before  him.  Alert  and  determined,  failure 
seems  impossible  to  these  men  of  God. 

Our  stay  in  Hiroshima  has  been  very  delightful. 
The  Church-members  met  us  at  Dr.  Lambuth’s  a 
few  afternoons  ago.  We  sat  upon  the  floor,  Jap- 
anese fashion;  and  although  we  could  not  join  in 
the  conversation,  we  enjoyed  the  hour.  Mrs. 
Lambuth  retained  a chair  for  your  father,  whose 
habits  of  sitting  were  too  confirmed  to  be  inter- 
rupted. Tea  and  sugar-cakes  were  served.  The 
guests  brought  a fold  of  paper  in  their  belts,  to  be 
used  as  a wrapper  for  the  cakes  which  were  taken 
home.  Etiquette  requires  a guest  to  drink  the  tea, 
but  more  solid  refreshment  may  be  placed  in  the 
pocket:  indeed,  whatever  is  left  the  hostess  must 
send  after  her  friends.  It  was  touching  that  these 
people,  who  lately  had  not  heard  of  the  Lord  God, 
now  find  their  joy  in  him  whose  love  was  taught  me 
in  my  childhood  ten  thousand  miles  away. 


GO  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

The  next  afternoon  we  attended  a “high  tea.” 
This  was  a very  ceremonious  occasion.  Ladies 
only  (except  your  father  and  Dr.  Lambuth)  were 
present,  and  were  attired  in  fine  silks  and  crepes. 
All  shoes  being  left  at  the  door,  you  will  know 
how  curious  these  pretty  dresses  appeared  when 
finished  off  by  bare  feet.  However,  our  friends 
were  so  entirely  unconscious  of  any  incongruity 
that  I very  soon  forgot  it.  Each  guest  on  arriving 
threw  herself  on  her  knees  and  touched  the  floor 
with  her  forehead,  first  to  salute  her  hostess,  and 
then  the  other  ladies  present.  By  the  time  fifty 
had  assembled,  I had  come  to  think  these  oft- 
repeated  salaams  quite  pretty.  It  was  an  undertak- 
ing to  seat  the  company,  for  each  one  remained  at 
the  door,  upon  the  floor,  through  many  persuasions 
to  enter.  No  lady  will  acknowledge  herself  worthy 
of  so  great  a compliment  as  a place  in  the  presence 
of  her  hostess:  she  accepts  it  only  on  finding  that 
her  refusal  creates  considerable  embarrassment; 
and  as  she  proceeds  a few  inches  at  a time  to 
the  spot  designated,  it  requires  both  energy  and 
patience  to  seat  a large  number  of  guests.  At 
last,  the  company  being  located,  the  arrangement 
of  the  flowers  was  the  next  observance.  After 
request  upon  request,  and  as  many  modest  refus- 
als, a lady  finally  consented  to  dress  the  vase; 


Life  in  Hiroshima.  Cl 

and  in  solemn  silence,  and  with  many  profound 
salutations  after  the  aforesaid  sort,  the  angular  bou- 
quet was  set  before  us.  The  event  of  the  afternoon 
was  the  making  and  drinking  the  tea,  the  intrica- 
cies of  which  I cannot  describe.  The  process  was 
inexplicable.  The  elaborate  brewing  being  com- 
pleted, there  was  no  one  who  would  assume  or  be 
persuaded  to  take  the  first  cup — till  the  wife  of  the 
chief-justice,  who  had  the  precedence,  desired 
three  young  ladies  to  drink  for  the  company. 
This  is  the  only  time  I ever  witnessed  a tea-drink- 
ing  by  proxy.  The  three  went  to  the  center  of 
the  room,  where  the  aforementioned  genuflections 
were  repeated  and  the  tea  and  little  cakes  accept- 
ed. The  latter  were  laid  aside  for  home  con- 
sumption, while  the  tea  was  turned  about,  raised 
to  the  forehead,  again  shaken  and  twirled,  and  at 
length  swallowed.  It  was  a difficult  operation,  for 
the  reason  that  on  these  punctilious  occasions  the 
tea  is  a mush  rather  than  an  infusion ; and  the 
rules  of  decorum  require  that  not  a leaf  be  left  in 
the  cup.  You  perceive,  then,  that  the  whirling  of 
the  cup  before  and  during  the  process  is  a neces- 
sity. 

Music  followed  ( if  such  monotonous  minor  sounds 
can  be  called  music),  both  vocal  and  upon  stringed 
instruments,  while  the  remainder  of  the  company 


62  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

had  tea.  I failed  to  give  mine  the  proper  graceful 
movement,  at  which  I detected  the  ghost  of  a smile 
on  several  faces;  while  your  father  caught  the 
precise  motion,  and  was  greatly  admired.  In  ad- 
dition, shocking  to  relate,  I left  a few  tea-leaves 
in  my  cup,  while  he  was  quick  enough  to  dispose 
of  his.  There  are  persons  who  do  what  they 
undertake. 

Jinrikishas  were  announced  at  dark.  I noticed 
that  the  guests  paid  for  their  jinrikishas  in  coming 
to  the  entertainment,  but  the  hostess  was  at  the  ex- 
pense of  returning  her  friends  to  their  homes.  At 
least  fifty  pairs  of  shoes  were  put  upon  the  feet 
where  they  belonged,  no  one  by  mistake  don- 
ning her  neighbor’s;  and  so  a pleasant  afternoon 
ended. 

Yet  another  invitation  was  sent  us  in  Hiroshima 
— an  invitation  to  a feast  where  we  were  seated  on 
the  floor  for  three  hours,  while  course  after  course 
was  set  before  us,  a list  of  which  may  interest 
you:  ( i ) tea  and  confections ; (2)  fish-head  soup, 
pounded  fish  in  a mold,  yams,  omelet,  preserved 
orange-skin  shredded;  (3)  raw  fish,  horse-radish, 
shredded  turnips,  red  sea-weed,  grated  cucumber- 
rind;  (4)  the  “honorable  fish,”  two  preparations 
of  beans  molded  in  exact  imitation  of  pine-burrs, 
one  green,  one  brown;  (5)  lobster  and  mush- 


G3 


Life  in  Hiroshima. 

rooms;  (6)  a soup  of  eggs,  fish,  mushrooms, 
chickens,  and  chestnuts:  this  was  the  only  warm 
dish — other  soups  were  cold;  (7)  fish  and  sea- 
weed; (8)  pickled  rice  in  fish-skin. 

It  was  fortunate  that  etiquette  did  not  require  me 
to  do  more  than  barely  look  at  these  dishes.  It 
was  agreeable  to  have  the  feast  sent  to  Dr.  Lam- 

O 

buth’s  house,  where  we  could  dispense  to  those 
who  enjoyed  this  style  of  culinary  art.  I must  ac- 
knowledge that  these  viands  would  not  have  been 
recognized  by  me,  if  Mrs.  Lambuth  had  not  aided 
me  in  the  investigation.  The  china  and  lacquer 
bowls  and  trays  were  very  handsome.  The  music 
was  indescribable — excruciating. 

Dr.  Walter  Lambuth  and  Mr.  Waters  live  in 
Japanese  houses;  indeed,  there  are  no  other 
houses  in  Hiroshima,  except  those  lately  built  by 
the  Board  of  the  Presbvterian  Church.  Japanese 
houses  are  very  pretty,  and  in  summer  comfort- 
able, but  must  be  cold  in  winter.  The  sides  be- 
ing removed  as  well  as  the  inner  panels,  of  course 
the  breeze  is  enjoyed;  and  if  the  sun  becomes  un- 
pleasant, the  slides  are  readily  returned  to  their 
places.  Mr.  Waters  is  quite  at  home  in  his  little 
cottage.  He  bought  a “tea-set”  yesterday,  like 
mine,  and  is  much  interested  in  housekeeping.  I 
wrote  you  how  he  entertained  the  governor  at  din- 


64  Letters  f rom  the  Orient. 

ner,  with  an  inexperienced  cook  in  the  kitchen, 
and  only  such  things  in  the  larder  as  an  inland 
town  afforded,  with  all  the  hospitable  intent  that 
could  be  expected  if  he  were  the  happy  possessor 
of  a capable  wife  to  smooth  the  difficulties. 

Yesterday  we  went  shopping,  and  were  ourselves 
such  curios  that  not  less  than  a hundred  followed 
us,  even  entering  the  shops  and  filling  the  fronts, 
so  that  we  had  neither  light  nor  air.  I purchased 
a piece  of  shalli-green,  wfith  remarkable  cranes 
stalking  up  and  down.  A Japanese  gown  will  be 
the  outcome.  Some  cotton  goods  which  I bought 
was  damaged.  Mrs.  Lambuth’s  “helper”  made  a 
rice-paste,  and,  matching  all  the  figures,  has  glued 
the  patches  into  place,  so  that  it  looks  as  w'ell  as 
though  it  had  not  needed  repairs.  The  silks  and 
embroideries  are  very  beautiful,  but  do  not  please 
me  more  than  my  dress  surprises  the  Japs.  This 
morning  I wondered  why  a crowd  was  so  curious 
about  my  face : I did  not  think  it  an  unusual  sight. 
I discovered  afterward  that  they  did  not  under- 
stand the  “invisible  veil”  which  I wore,  and 
thought  it  possible  that  “the  net  grew  there.” 

In  our  walks  we  see  curiously  dwarfed  trees 
that  must  have  required  experienced  florists  in 
their  management.  They  are  often  grotesque  in 
shape,  and  even  after  years  of  training  I suppose 


Life  in  Hiroshima.  G5 

still  need  considerable  skill  to  prevent  them  from 
taking  the  natural  shape.  We  also  see  intricate 
labyrinths  of  stone — rocks  strangely  thrown  to- 
gether, the  way  winding  through  them,  now  up, 
nowr  down,  stair-ways  across,  in  and  out,  till  my 
head  whirls  with  the  complications. 

The  passport  system  is  very  troublesome  in  Ja- 
pan. Any  one  can  reside  or  visit  at  the  treaty 
ports;  but  in  order  to  go  to  the  cities  on  the  In- 
land Sea,  or  in  the  interior  of  the  empire,  a pass- 
port from  the  department  at  Tokio  must  be  ob- 
tained. All  of  our  missionaries  (except  those  at 
Kobe),  their  wives  and  children,  must  have  a “ per- 
mit” to  live  here  or  to  remove  from  one  place  to 
another.  When  the  time  expires  at  the  end  of  the 
year,  every  foreigner  w'ith  his  household  must 
pack  up  and  go  to  a “treaty  port,”  and  there  re- 
main till  the  “ red  tape”  is  straightened.  The 
time  cannot  be  anticipated,  no  application  for  a 
newr  one  being  considered  till  the  old  passport  has 
expired.  In  this  way  our  brethren  are  sometimes 
kept  from  their  work  for  a month ; but  I hear  the 
time  is  never  wasted — they  find  something  to  do. 

Of  course  you  know  there  is  no  Sabbath  here. 
Last  Sunday  the  hammer  and  sawf  in  a shop  near 
by  were  kept  going;  market-houses  were  open,  and 
men,  w'omen,  and  children  pursued  the  same  avo- 
5 


66  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

cations  as  on  any  other  day.  I went  to  Japanese 
preaching,  also  to  Sunday-school.  Mr.  Waters 
made  his  first  missionary  collection  in  the  school, 
and  received  one  dollar  and  forty-three  cents.  This 
is  to  be  done  monthly,  and  the  proceeds  to  be  used 
for  the  expenses  of  the  students  sent  to  the  school 
at  Tokio.  A generous  gift  from  our  converted  hea- 
then children ! A year  ago  they  knew  no  god  but 
Buddha;  now  they  are  learning  of  Him  who  said, 
“Suffer  the  little  children  to  come  unto  me.” 
These  pagan  boys  and  girls  were  as  surely  meant 
as  those  in  the  Southern  Methodist  Church  of  my 
home-land.  It  was  not  an  American  child  that 
Jesus  took  in  his  arms  that  day  in  Galilee  when  he 
talked  of  the  kingdom  of  heaven.  It  was  a He' 
brew,  and  as  he  pressed  the  little  one  to  his  heart 
he  thought  of  all  those  who  were  to  live  in  the 
ages  to  come.  He  loved  all  alike,  and  asks  the 
children  who  serve  him  to  remember  those  who 
have  the  same  right  to  his  blessing,  and  yet  who 
never  heard  of  his  love.  If  Paul  and  Peter  had 
gone  east  from  Jerusalem,  teaching  and  preach- 
ing toward  China  and  Japan,  these  people  might 
have  heard  the  word  gladly,  while  to-day  our  beau- 
tiful continent  might  have  been  bound  by  “error’s 
chain.” 

The  Japanese  are  very  anxious  to  learn  the  En- 


Life  in  Hiroshima.  67 

glish  language.  I doubt  not  that  this  is  one  of 
God’s  plans  to  open  the  way  for  the  gospel.  How 
easy  it  would  be  for  any  of  us  to  tell  the  story  of 
Jesus  if  we  could  be  understood  ! At  present  two, 
three,  four,  five  years  are  spent  in  studying  these 
hieroglyphics,  with  their  meaning  and  sound,  be- 
fore a man  can  with  ease  preach  in  the  tongue  of 
his  hearers.  Besides,  the  time  now  given  to  the 
language  could  then  be  given  to  the  one  work 
which  the  missionary  loves.  Do  you  remember 
that  your  first  reading-lesson  was  the  story  of  Eli- 
jah, from  the  Bible  itself?  It  was  as  easy  to 
learn  those  words  from  the  Holy  Book  as  a lesson 
in  the  primer  would  have  been.  So  our  mis- 
sionaries, in  teaching  English  to  these  heathen, 
constantly  use  the  Bible ; and  while  many  of  them 
are  intent  upon  the  new  language,  they  are,  with- 
out knowing  it,  learning  the  foundation  on  which 
the  way  to  heaven  is  built — just  as  my  little  girls 
learned  a lesson  of  fidelity  from  Elijah’s  history 
while  they  solved  the  mystery  of  words. 

Our  teachers  in  the  Government  schools  require 
exercises  in  “composition”  as  a part  of  the  En- 
glish training.  I give  you  a sample  or  two  of  their 
work.  Of  course  boys  and  girls  of  fifteen  or  six- 
teen could  do  better  in  their  own  language:  while 
their  manner  of  expressing  themselves  in  ours  is 


68 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

amusing  sometimes,  yet  I look  on  these  examples 
as  tolerably  good — better  than  mine  would  be  if 
I attempted  Japanese.  Here  is  one  on  Spring- 
“ The  Spring  has  come.  The  birds  and  other  ani- 
mals are  singing,  and  the  colts  in  the  meadow 
kicking  spiritually.”  Another  on  Summer:  “On 
the  most  longest  day  in  the  year,  the  sun  rises  on 
the  five  o’clock,  and  sets  down  on  the  seven  in  the 
evening.”  Another  on  The  Country:  “In  the 
country  all  the  pupils  are  inhabited  by  little  houses 
and  the  sunshines  are  lighter  than  the  moon- 
shines.” 

Dr.  Wainright’s  cook  employed  an  extra  boy  on 
one  occasion  and  told  Mrs.  Wainright,  “The  boy 
would  not  work,  so  I gave  him  great  anger,  and  he 
obeyed  suddenly” — poor  English,  but  conveying 
his  meaning. 

We  will  take  the  kojoki  again  in  a few  hours — 
its  discomforts  in  great  contrast  with  the  luxurious 
entertainment  recently  at  a Japanese  inn  where  we 
were  taken  up  a shining  stair-way,  no  shoe  being 
allowed  to  mar  its  beauty.  Our  rooms  were  per- 
fect after  their  way.  Pretty  paper  slides  bounded 
the  sides.  The  universal  tea-set  of  beautiful  china 
was  set  in  the  corner.  When  the  hour  for  sleep 
arrived  light  blue  silk-wadded  mats  were  spread 
upon  the  floor,  with  coverings  of  the  same.  Our 


G9 


Life  in  Hiroshima. 

own  pillows  are  part  of  our  traveling  parapherna- 
lia. Our  rest  was  regal.  We  slept  as  became 
comfortably  padded  mortals. 

We  are  amused  at  our  dislike  of  the  kojoki. 
It  is  so  admirably  arranged  for  the  discomfort  of 
its  passengers  that  by  this  time  it  should  be  a joke 
to  us  who  are  well. 


LETTER  VII. 

OTHER  PLEASANT  EXCURSIONS  IN  JAPAN. 

Kobe,  October  2,  1SS8. 

WE  had  a pleasant  trip  back  to  Kobe.  The 
sunshine  and  the  breeze  were  delightful. 
The  two  children,  David  and  Mary,  were  with  us. 
They  assisted  materially  in  all  we  did.  The  inex- 
plicable dishes,  of  Japanese  cooking,  are  quite  eat- 
able to  these  little  ones:  I noticed  that  when  the 
“boy  of  all  work”  brought  us  his  incomprehensi- 
ble vegetable  compounds  they  enjoyed  tasting,  and 
would  probably  have  eaten  heartily  if  their  father 
had  not  enjoined  caution.  David  did  me  a good 
turn  in  the  night.  When  we  retired  for  sleep  we 
found  the  seat  that  was  placed  around  the  cabin 
walls  vacant.  David  and  I gathered  our  shawls 
and  pillows,  and  made  ourselves  comfortable  on 
this  bench.  A man  on  the  floor  also  liked  the 
place,  and  arranged  for  his  night’s  sleep,  crowding 
us  considerably;  but  the  little  boy  dreamed,  and 
kicked  so  vigorously  that  in  a short  time  the  space 
the  man  occupied  was  vacated. 

Do  you  realize  how  lately  Japan  and  China 
were  closed  to  all  the  world?  Commodore  Perry, 
(70) 


Other  Pleasant  Excursions.  71 

of  the  United  States  Navy,  demanded  that  Japan 
open  her  ports  for  intercourse  with  his  country, 
and,  after  some  months  of  diplomatic  negotiation, 
a treaty  was  signed  in  March,  1854,  which  opened 
two  ports  to  Americans.  It  was  not  till  some  years 
after  that  the  great  powers  obtained  the  genuine 
good-will  of  the  Government.  A hatred  of  for- 
eigners threatened  to  destroy  all  relations. 

Nearly  three  hundred  years  ago  the  Jesuits  were 
here  in  great  numbers,  but  were  ejected,  and  the 
edicts  against  Christians  were  not  revoked  till  1876. 
We  sat  at  home,  thinking  but  little  of  this  pagan 
world,  while  Perry  and  the  diplomats  started  the 
wedge  which  was  to  open  the  empire  to  the  Bible 
and  the  preaching  of  the  cross.  God  did  not  for- 
get l Slowly  the  doors  swung  open.  The  Church 
prayed,  “Thy  kingdom  come!  ” God  is  answer- 
ing. His  kingdom  is  established  in  Japan,  and 
seems  about  to  possess  the  land.  Do  we  not  ask 
him  to  stay  his  hand  by  our  feeble  answer  to  his 
call  for  men,  women,  and  money?  Rather,  shall 
we  not  shout  back,  “ Thy  servants  hear  and  see — 
let  thy  kingdom  come?”  And  when  the  still 
small  voice  speaks  here  and  there,  “Get  thee  out 
of  thy  country,  and  from  thy  kindred,  and  from 
thy  father’s  house,  unto  a land  that  I will  show 
thee,”  may  there  be  from  far  and  near  the  re- 


72 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

sponse,  “Here  am  I,  send  me.”  And  when  to 
some  others  the  word  comes,  “Every  beast  of 
the  forest  is  mine,  and  the  cattle  upon  a thousand 
hills,”  “return  me  that  which  is  mine  own,” 
“freely  ye  have  received,  freely  give,”  God  help 
our  rich  men  to  sing  with  all  their  hearts : 

“Were  the  whole  realm  of  nature  mine, 

That  were  a present  far  too  small: 

Love  so  amazing,  so  divine, 

Demands  my  love,  my  life,  my  all.” 

Among  our  poor  may  there  be  many  who  shall 
give  generously,  happy  if  they  may  expect  to  hear 
their  Master  say,  “They  did  what  they  could.” 
The  voice  of  Japan,  as  she  calls,  “Come  over, 
and  help  us,”  is  the  voice  of  God.  We  are  able 
“to  possess  the  land,”  but  we  must  “go  up.” 
We  can  overcome  the  “strong  cities”  and  “the 
giants,”  because  he  that  is  for  us  is  greater  than 
all  who  be  against  us.  The  pillar  of  cloud  and 
of  fire  will  lead  the  way,  if  we  march  “onward 
as  to  war.”  This  land  of  “milk  and  honey”  shall 
be  ours  unless  Christian  people  fail  to  meet  their 
obligations.  A richer  harvest  awaits  us  than  Ca- 
naan’s “grapes  and  pomegranates  and  figs.”  God 
does  not  prosper  our  fair  South  that  she  may  lavish 
her  gold  upon  herself.  He  gives,  and  expects  a 
faithful  stewardship. 


Other  Pleasant  Excursions.  73 

We  went  to  Arima  upon  the  mountain-top  a few 
days  ago.  We  tried  a new  method  of  locomotion, 
the  “cong-o”  (I  give  the  pronunciation — not  the 
spelling),  which  is  a litter  “ shorter  than  a man  can 
stretch  himself  in”  carried  on  the  shoulders  of 
coolies.  Your  father  and  Dr.  Lambuth  made  stir- 
rups at  the  sides  in  order  to  rest  their  feet — I made 
them  in  front  for  my  comfort.  As  we  went  up  the 
mountain-road  our  men  were  occasionally  near 
enough  to  the  edge  of  a precipice  to  make  one  a 
trifle  tremulous.  I was  reminded  of  the  traveler 
who  was  proud  of  his  horse  because,  when  he 
stumbled  on  the  brink  of  an  abyss,  he  was  able  to 
recover  foot-hold.  His  friend  replied:  “ Mine  did 
far  better,  for  he  was  so  sure-footed  that  he  carried 
me  over  the  dangerous  places  without  tripping.” 

The  way  was  very  beautiful.  Myriads  of  gay 
flowers  were  to  be  seen  in  the  paths,  under  the 
trees  and  among  the  grass.  Bright  geraniums 
and  oleanders  growing  wild  in  profusion — mag- 
nificent hydrangeas,  that  at  home  we  cultivate  with 
such  care — sweet-brier,  morning-glories,  daisies, 
and  many  other  familiar  blossoms  lined  the  hedges. 
Above  us  the  heavens  were  blue,  and  away  in 
the  distance  we  saw  the  bay  with  its  many  sails. 
Our  “bearers”  were  very  cheerful,  though  it  must 
have  been  toilsome  work.  They  talked  and 


74 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

laughed  while  trotting  along  as  though  they  were 
off  on  a holiday.  Sometimes  they  intoned  a 
rhythmical  chorus,  in  which,  though  there  was  no 
music,  the  time  was  perfect  with  the  pit-a-pat  of 
their  footsteps. 

The  rain  poured  in  torrents  during  the  entire 
visit  to  Arima.  We  could  not  enjoy  the  town,  but 
we  saw  the  basket-work,  which  is  the  prettiest  in 
the  world.  The  sulphur  baths  of  the  place  are 
noted,  and  would  have  been  enjoyed  but  that  the 
responsible  person  would  not  run  off  the  contents 
of  the  tank  to  give  me  fresh  water.  Their  baths 
are  renewed  once  a day,  and,  though  a hundred 
persons  bathe,  the  same  water  is  used  until  the 
next  day.  In  vain  I insisted  that  our  custom  in 
America  was  a new  supply  of  water  for  each  per- 
son. I suppose  his  idea  was  that  in  Japan  one 
must  do  as  the  Japanese.  In  Kobe  I had  been 
more  fortunate.  After  considerable  expostulation 
and  determination,  Mrs.  Walter  Lambuth  succeed- 
ed several  times  in  obtaining  a fresh  bath  for  me. 

Our  visit  to  Kioto  was  interesting.  Here  are 
great  potteries,  where  we  watched  the  process  of 
making  the  beautiful  china-ware,  from  the  time  the 
workman  holds  the  clay  till  a handsomely  decorat- 
ed piece  of  bric-a-brac  work  was  ready  for  sale. 
We  were  so  fortunate  as  to  stumble  upon  the  artist 


Other  Pleasant  Excursions.  75 

who  was  preparing  the  embroidered  hangings  for 
the  new  palace  at  Tokio.  A gorgeous  peacock 
strutted  across  a long  canopy  as  though  he  were  a 
living  bird;  the  bark  of  the  trees  was  so  like  bark 
that  I could  scarcely  believe  it  to  be  embroidery : 
the  lotus-flowers  seemed  to  be  growing.  All  ap- 
peared real. 

We  went  through  the  old  palace  of  the  Mikado, 
where  he  spends  about  a month  in  the  year.  The 
severe  simplicity  is  in  great  contrast  with  our  fine 
residences.  The  hundreds  of  sliding  panels  sep- 
arating the  scores  of  rooms  are  rich  paintings 
three  and  four  hundred  years  old — of  course  all 
after  Japanese  patterns,  which  are  very  different 
from  our  ideal  painting.  It  is  remarkable  how 
these  gilded  and  tinted  papers  have  stood  the  wear 
and  tear  of  centuries.  The  carvings  and  brass- 
work  of  one  of  the  gate-ways  are  very  handsome. 

Kioto  is  the  seat  of  a Buddhist  college,  com- 
plete in  all  respects  except  that  it  lacks  the  teach- 
ing without  which  all  learning  is  vain.  Several 
hundred  students  are  here  at  work.  The  Bible  is 
in  the  library,  because  they  want  every  thing  that 
helps  to  make  Western  civilization.  Cannot,  will 
not  God  use  his  word  to  convince  men  who  to-day 
scarcely  expect  to  find  the  way  of  eternal  life  in 
that  Book  of  books? 


76  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

I mention  another  point  of  interest — the  Bud- 
dhist temple  now  building.  The  old  temple  was 
burned  to  the  ground  many  years  ago,  and  at  once 
a fund  was  started  for  rebuilding.  An  old  priest 
caught  the  fire  from  the  altar  from  the  perpetually 
burning  lamp,  so  that  when  the  new  temple  is  fin- 
ished the  incense  and  altar  will  be  lighted  from  that 
continuous  fire  which  was  not  extinguished.  The 
new  carvings  of  storks,  the  lotus,  chrysanthemums, 
and  other  favorite  figures  are  very  beautiful.  What 
interested  us  most  were  the  great  cables  of  hair, 
the  gift  of  the  women  of  Japan.  These  were  used 
for  lifting  the  heavy  timbers  into  position  in  the  roof 
and  other  places.  We  calculated  from  the  figures 
attached  to  the  hair  that  there  were  nearly  six  tons. 
I have  forgotten  the  number  of  feet  of  cable  as 
thick  as  that  of  the  largest  steamers : the  amount 
seemed  almost  past  belief.  The  women  have  giv- 
en what  was  of  most  value  to  them,  their  hair  be- 
ing their  chief  treasure.  Of  course  my  mind  re- 
verted to  the  building  of  the  Tabernacle,  almost 
four  thousand  years  ago.  Then  the  women  were 
“willing-hearted,”  bringing  “bracelets,  and  ear- 
rings, and  rings,  and  tablets,  all  jewels  of  gold.” 
They  did  “spin  with  their  hands”  the  “blue,  and 
purple,  and  scarlet,  and  fine  linen”  which  they  of- 
fered before  the  Lord.  They  were  “wise  heart- 


Other  Pleasant  Excursions.  77 

ed;”  while  these  women  of  Japan  in  their  igno- 
rance sacrifice  to  the  temple  of  Buddha  their  chief 
beauty.  The  women  in  all  ages  have  been  devot- 
ed. Surely  we  of  the  South  will  not  hesitate  to 
rescue  these  perishing  devotees.  Let  us  tell  them 
they  are  not  their  own,  but  were  bought  with  a 
price,  and  have  the  right  of  fellowship  with  God 
in  Christ  Jesus.  How  shall  we  appear  with  confi- 
dence before  our  Lord  at  his  coming  if  we  refuse 
to  obey  his  last  command?  He  opens  our  way  be- 
fore us,  smoothing  out  the  difficulties  which  fifty 
years  ago  looked  insurmountable. 

The  leaven  spreads.  A janitor  of  the  imperial 
palace  in  Kioto  told  Dr.  Lambuth  when  we  were 
there  a few  days  ago  that  he  is  reading  the  Bible. 
Another  said:  “There  must  be  something  in  your 
religion,  for  I see  your  people  are  different:  they 
are  not  the  same  men  they  used  to  be.”  Another, 
who  had  been  reading  the  fifth  of  Matthew,  said 
in  my  hearing:  “I  can  understand  how  one  who 
is  pure  in  heart  could  see  God,  but  how  can  I with 
an  impure  heart  see  him?  I want  to  see  him,  but 
I cannot  make  my  heart  pure.”  A prominent 
merchant  in  Kobe  fell  into  conversation  with  Dr. 
J.  W.  Lambuth,  which  the  latter  followed  up  un- 
til the  merchant  has  become  a constant  reader  of 
the  Bible.  He  often  comes  for  instruction,  and 


78  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

there  is  good  hope  that  he  will  soon  find  “the 
way,  the  truth,  the  life.” 

Returning  from  a short  jaunt  yesterday,  we  met 
Dr.  Dukes  on  his  way  to  one  of  his  outposts.  He 
had  found  a “ silver  lining”  to  his  last  cloud.  He 
had  not  seen  where  a new  teaching-place  could  be 
found  when  a recent  ejectment  occurred.  Provi- 
dentially, a man  of  social  position,  who  is  study- 
ing English  with  Dr.  Dukes,  said  to  him,  when  he 
heard  of  the  situation:  “I  will  give  you  a house 
for  as  long  a time  as  you  desire,  and  charge  no 
rent  for  the  first  year.” 


LETTER  YIII. 

STUDYING  THE  PECULIARITES  OF  THE  JAPS. 

Kobe,  October,  1888. 

THE  annals  of  Japan  reach  back  almost  twenty- 
five  hundred  years.  The  present  Mikado  is 
in  a direct  line  from  the  founder  of  the  dynasty 
whose  history  began  nearly  one  thousand  years  be- 
fore Christ.  His  titles,  “King  of  Heaven”  and 
“Son  of  Heaven,”  came  down  to  him  all  through 
these  centuries,  so  that  if  he  has  grown  to  regard 
himself  as  such  it  need  not  be  matter  of  surprise. 
Rein,  a German  historian,  records  the  sagacity  of 
more  than  one  of  the  early  rulers.  Even  the  wom- 
en were  noted.  One  empress  conducted  a suc- 
cessful expedition  against  Corea,  and  managed 
national  affairs  creditably  during  her  regency, 
while  her  son  was  a minor.  And  concerning  the 
devotion  of  another,  it  is  said  that  she  threw  her- 
self into  the  sea,  a sacrifice  to  Neptune,  in  order 
to  secure  for  her  husband  a successful  voyage. 

While  some  of  the  Mikados  sought  their  own 
aggrandizement,  there  were  others  who,  self-for- 
getful, looked  only  to  the  well-being  of  their  peo- 
ple. At  present  a strange  unrest  pervades  all 

(79) 


80  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

classes.  The  Emperor,  court  officials,  the  schools, 
the  people,  are  unsatisfied.  They  are  asking  for 
Western  civilization.  God  is  stirring  the  heart  of 
Japan.  Civilization  will  not  meet  their  want.  The 
gospel  only  is  for  the  healing  of  the  nations. 

Things  pleasing  and  curious  meet  us  at  every 
turn.  In  America  our  building  is  ended  where  the 
Japanese  begin — that  is,  they  construct  the  roof 
first.  An  intricate  scaffolding  is  erected,  upon 
which  they  begin  at  the  top  and  work  down.  They 
reverse  almost  all  our  mechanical  processes — they 
pull  the  plane  and  saw  toward  them,  while  the 
drawing-knife  they  push  away.  Even  the  cats  are 
different,  being  without  tails. 

Babies  are  antiquated-looking.  If  dressed,  they 
wear  exactly  the  same  cut  of  garment  that  their 
grandmothers  wore  a hundred  years  ago.  They 
are  taken  out  strapped  to  the  mother’s  or  little  sis- 
ter’s back,  where  they  laugh  and  coo,  grow  weary, 
squirm,  and  cry,  till,  worn  out,  the  tired  head  falls 
back,  and  sleep  comes  with  the  poor  little  face  up- 
turned to  the  blazing  sun.  Sometimes  the  young 
nurse  joins  in  a game  of  top-spinning,  or  “ Puss 
wants  a corner,”  or  “Where’s  the  ring?”  while 
the  baby’s  head  is  left  “bobbing”  up  and  down 
as  though  it  were  on  a hinge  working  toward 
all  points  of  the  compass.  A fine  fellow,  whose 


Peculiarities  of  the  faps.  81 

back  was  as  broad  as  that  of  the  sister  upon  whom 
he  was  strapped,  allowed  me  to  amuse  him  for  ten 
minutes  the  other  day.  Foreign  baby-talk  and  a 
person  so  peculiar-looking  as  myself  diverted  him 
until  he  forgot  his  grievance.  A barber  was  equal- 
ly amazed  to-day.  I wondered  if  the  customer 
knew  the  peril  he  escaped  while  the  tonsorial  art- 
ist gazed  at  the  strange  lady. 

At  night,  in  the  native  parts  of  the  cities,  the 
shops  display  their  wares  on  the  ground  in  the 
middle  of  the  street,  lighting  with  torches  and  lan- 
terns. Whether  the  sales  are  sufficient  for  the  out- 
lay of  strength,  convenience,  and  expense  I have 
not  heard.  Jinrikishas  drive  through,  and  no  one 
moves  out  of  anybody’s  way,  which  reminds  me 
of  a dance  we  witnessed  a few  evenings  ago.  It 
was  raining  and  very  dark,  about  io  p.m.,  as  we 
passed  through  a village  some  miles  distant.  A 
most  unmusical  drum  beat  out  of  time,  and  as  we 
drew  near  we  found  an  assembly  of  perhaps  fifty 
dancing  in  the  road,  with  one  torch-light.  Our 
“rikishas”  passed  through,  and  none  were  dis- 
concerted. 

Funeral  processions  are  striking.  I watched 
one  yesterday.  Six  immense  bunches  of  gay-col- 
ored flowers,  as  tall  as  the  men  who  carried  them, 
came  first.  Then  followed  the  coffin,  borne  on  the 
G 


82  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

shoulders  of  four.  This  was  an  ornamented  box, 
very  short,  and  about  as  wide  and  high  as  it  was 
long,  the  remains  being  placed  in  a sitting  posture. 
The  friends  followed. 

The  coiffure  of  a Japanese  lady  is  a wonderful 
superstructure.  The  hair  is  very  black,  and  kept 
smooth  by  the  abundant  use  of  oil.  I am  told  the 
hair-dresser  is  universally  employed,  very  few  per- 
sons being  able  to  construct  the  puffs,  rolls,  and 
twists  of  a well-regulated  head.  For  economy’s 
sake  only  the  rich  undergo  the  process  oftener  than 
once  a week.  The  pomatum  keeps  the  hair  in 
reasonable  order,  especially  as  they  sleep  on  a 
wooden  rest,  which  is  hollowed  out  in  shape  and 
size  to  fit.  Tortoise-shell,  silver,  and  other  pins 
are  used  for  decoration.  The  heads  of  the  chil- 
dren are  shaved  in  circles  and  rectangles;  some- 
times the  scalp  is  shaved,  leaving  only  a lock  on 
each  temple  which  may  grow  as  long  as  it  will. 

Married  women  blacken  their  teeth  and  look 
hideous.  It  is  said  to  have  been  required  by  the 
husbands  of  long  ago  in  order  to  prevent  any  ad- 
miration of  their  wives.  The  Empress  discour- 
ages this  fashion.  It  has  been  growing  into  dis- 
use, and  will  soon  be  forgotten. 

Hot  baths  are  in  daily  use.  The  family  tub  is 
filled  with  water,  up  in  the  nineties.  First  the  fa- 


(83) 


JAPANESE  SLEEPING  APARTMENT. 


Peculiarities  of  the  fafs.  83 

ther  bathes,  then  the  sons;  next  the  mother,  then 
the  daughters,  and  last  the  servants — all  in  the 
same  water. 

As  soon  as  a guest  arrives,  whether  in  private 
or  public  house,  tea  is  handed,  and  the  “hibachi” 
placed  convenient  for  lighting  the  pipe.  The 
hibachi  is  a wooden,  porcelain,  or  bronze  bowl, 
lined  with  clay  and  filled  with  ashes  on  which  char- 
coal is  kept  burning.  In  cold  weather  it  is  the 
heating  apparatus,  and  at  all  seasons  is  ready  for 
use.  During  our  wanderings  in  Japan  we  have 
boiled  our  kettle  for  coffee  and  tea  on  the  hibachi 
— a necessary  adjunct  to  our  itinerant  restaurant, 
and  found  on  every  kojoki  and  in  every  inn  and 
hut  in  the  country. 

In  all  the  homes  one  room  is  used  as  a domestic 
altar:  before  the  sacred  shrine  are  performed  the 
devotions  of  the  household.  The  Buddhist  works 
out  his  salvation  by  following  the  prescribed  code 
of  morals;  the  Shintoist  by  his  sacrifices  to  Kami — 
all  go  through  some  religious  form,  and  are  satisfied. 

In  no  particular  do  I see  such  difference  between 
Christian  and  heathen  life  as  in  the  position  which 
my  own  sex  holds.  Christianity  only  has  placed 
woman  in  an  exalted  place.  She  owes  her  all  to 
the  coming  of  the  Lord  Jesus.  In  heathen  lands 
she  is  the  slave  of  her  husband.  In  Japan  she  re- 


84  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

ceives  more  consideration  than  in  other  pagan 
countries;  but  even  here  she  stands  till  her  lord  is 
served,  and  does  not  eat  nor  indulge  herself  in  any- 
way till  he  is  ready  to  dispense  with  her  services. 
She  must  always  be  cheerful  lest  he  grow  weary, 
and  be  very  fruitful  of  expedients  for  amusing  him. 
Even  a bride  at  her  wedding-feast  must  stand  be- 
hind her  spouse  till  his  meal  is  concluded.  He  may 
divorce  her  if  she  talks  much,  if  she  is  often  on  the 
street,  or  if  she  is  disobedient  to  him  or  his  mother. 
His  satisfaction  is  in  himself,  his  wife  being  his 
servant.  How  different  in  a Christian  land ! The 
Christian  husband  knows,  by  the  love  of  the  Sav- 
iour of  the  world,  how  to  love  his  wife  till  self- 
sacrifice  becomes  a joy.  She  is  his  earthly  ideal. 
What  other  “rights”  does  woman  desire?  As 
Jesus  drew  all  men  to  him,  she  was  raised  to  her 
lofty  height,  and  without  fear  looks  into  her  hus- 
band’s face,  knowing  that,  next  to  her  God,  he  is 
her  strength. 

I saw  a Satsuma  bowl  of  exquisite  coloring  a 
day  or  two  ago.  I wish  I might  transport  it  to 
you.  Its  measure  was  but  a pint,  and  its  price 
fifty  dollars.  It  was  very  beautiful.  As  you  know, 
the  admiration  of  Satsuma  is  world-wide.  I am 
so  little  of  a connoisseur  as  to  prefer  the  new  to 
the  old,  as  also  I think  the  new  lacquer-work  more 


Peculiarities  of  the  Jafs.  85 

lovely  than  the  old,  though  the  latter  far  outlasts 
the  other. 

Time  and  space  fail  me  before  I have  told  you 
the  half.  Multum  in  parvo.  I was  “the  party  of 
the  second  part”  in  a fight,  was  thrown  from  my 
jinrikisha  with  violence,  have  had  a scare,  was  lost 
for  an  hour,  have  been  entertained  in  Japanese 
fashion  both  comfortably  and  uncomfortably,  have 
practiced  pantomime  with  an  expert  when  I failed 
to  make  myself  otherwise  understood,  have  been 
on  short  rations,  have  seen  things  more  beautiful 
than  I can  describe,  and,  better  than  all,  have  had 
the  privilege  of  joining  the  people  of  God  in  the 
worship  of  the  Most  High. 

* 

We  will  sail  for  China  in  a few  hours. 

P.  S. — November,  1S89. 

Such  advance  has  been  made  in  our  work  in 
Japan  during  the  past  year  that  I must  remind 
the  Church  that  new  help — men,  women,  and 
money — must  be  given,  or  we  will  be  obliged 
to  retreat.  Our  first  native  preacher  has  been 
licensed — Mr.  Yoshioka,  a devoted  young  Chris- 
tian. He  is  the  man  who  gave  three  hundred 
dollars  to  the  Kobe  Church.  He  received  a pen- 
sion of  nine  hundred  dollars  from  the  Govern- 
ment, six  hundred  of  which  he  gave  to  his  mother, 
and  the  remaining  three  hundred  was  used  to  clear 


86  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

all  indebtedness  from  the  new  house  in  Kobe,  fin- 
ished and  dedicated  one  year  ago. 

The  Japanese  are  so  willing  to  help  themselves 
that  surely  the  home  Church  will  not  fail  to  supply 
their  need,  The  call  is  to  men  and  women  both, 
that  they  shall  go  and  send.  Those  who  cannot 
go  must  see  that  the  money  is  forth-coming,  on 
which  the  work  so  much  depends.  A large  pro- 
portion of  the  work  must  be  done  by  women. 
They  can  go  where  men  cannot,  can  do  what  men 
cannot,  can  say  what  men  cannot.  Their  sphere 
in  the  homes  of  Japan,  and  in  all  the  East,  is  im- 
mensely broad  and  practically  unrestricted.  Wom- 
en have  comparatively  no  opposition  from  any 
quarter,  save  the  prejudice  which  must  be  combat- 
ed in  every  heathen  mind. 

Even  the  children  may  join  the  men  and  women 
in  helping  to  save  this  people.  The  dew  upon  the 
grass  is  distilled  drop  by  drop,  and  though  it  soon 
vanishes,  it  does  its  work.  The  separate  contri- 
butions of  the  boys  and  girls  may  not  seem  as 
great  as  the  refreshment  a drop  of  dew  gives  a 
blade  of  grass,  but  in  the  day  of  reckoning  the 
accumulated  treasures  of  small  sacrifices  will  be 
counted  to  have  performed  grander  things  than 
keeping  the  “ robe  of  green  upon”  the  earth  ! And 
how  happy  the  very  young  of  to-day  will  be  when 


Peculiarities  of  the  Japs.  87 

youth  has  vanished,  to  remember  they  did  the 
work  committed  to  them  in  childhood ! 

Not  long  ago  Canon  Taylor  declared  foreign 
missions  to  be  a failure.  He  forgot  that  in  Japan 
it  was  once  death  to  profess  Christ,  and  that  the 
proclamation  to  that  effect,  which  was  shown  to 
your  father  two  years  ago,  has  been  a dead  letter 
for  some  years,  and  that  missionaries  are  pressing 
into  the  empire  as  fast  as  their  Churches  will  send 
them.  He  had  not  studied  the  difference  between 
“then  and  now,”  but  was  looking  rather  at  what 
the  Church  at  home  fails  to  do.  “Darkness  has 
covered  the  earth,  and  gross  darkness  the  people  ” 
— but  the  Sun  of  righteousness  has  risen  upon 
Japan.  God  is  fulfilling  his  promises.  Hundreds 
have  called  upon  the  name  of  the  Lord,  and  thou- 
sands are  being  prepared  for  the  word  of  his 
grace. 

See  the  call  made  by  three  Japanese  ladies  who 
three  years  ago  had  not  so  much  as  heard  that 
our  God,  the  Lord  Jehovah,  is  the  only  God,  and 
from  everlasting  to  everlasting.  Of  their  own  mo- 
tion and  without  assistance  from  our  missionaries, 
and  having  heard  that  the  work  in  Japan  is  largely 
dependent  upon  the  Boards  at  home,  they  wrote 
the  following — their  original  paper  being  sent  to 
Dr.  John,  both  the  Japanese  and  their  English 


88 


Letters  from  the  Orient . 

copy.  Dr.  W.  R.  Lambuth  sent  me  the  appeal, 
knowing  that  I would  remember  the  faces  and 
sweet  voices  and  devotion  of  the  writers.  They 
have  studied  English  with  Mrs.  J.  W.  Lambuth: 

Kobe,  Japan,  September  3,  1889. 

To  the  Members  of  the  Board  of  Missions  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church, 

South,  in  the  United  States  of  America. 

Dear  Friends  and  Brethren:  Feeling  inexpressibly  thankful 
to  our  most  merciful  God  for  his  great  mercy  and  help  in  bring- 
ing us  from  the  miseries  of  heathenism,  and  in  carrying  this  great 
and  glorious  ■work  of  our  Lord  into  this  dark  Gentile  land ; and 
bearing  a deep  sense  of  gratitude  to  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church,  South,  and  especially  to  your  honorable  body,  for  all  we 
have  received  for  our  good,  we  humbly  beg  leave  to  present  to 
you  our  petition. 

The  field  is  wide  open  before  us  for  woman’s  Christian  work, 
and  it  has  pressing  needs  of  laborers  to  carry  it  on.  We  cannot 
but  cry  out  for  help  from  beyond  the  great  ocean  to  meet  the  de- 
mand. Precious  souls  are  being  swept  on  in  the  broad  channel 
of  destruction.  We  cannot  and  must  not  lose  time  to  win  them 
to  Christ,  who  died  for  them.  Now  is  the  time  for  us  to  do  the 
grand  work  in  this  island  empire.  And  it  is  now  our  most  ear- 
nest request  that  your  societies  will  sympathize  with  us  and 
take  a speeding  step  to  send  out  such  lady  workers  as  they  see 
fit  into  the  community  of  our  sex,  in  this  part  of  our  Lord’s  do- 
minions. 

We  remain,  dear  friends  and  brethren,  in  earnest  and  prayer- 
ful expectation  of  a favorable  response  to  our  petition. 

Your  humble  sisters  in  Christ, 

Mrs.  Y.  Yoshioka, 
Mrs.  G.  Hashimoto, 
Mrs.  S.  Kixoshita. 


Peculiarities  of  the  Japs.  89 

And  there  are  some  who  say  “foreign  missions 
are  a failure,”  and  some  who  will  not  open  their 
hearts  and  purses  in  order  to  send  the  gospel  to 
the  heathen ! 


LETTER  IX. 

LEAVING  JAPAN— FROM  KOBE  TO  SHANGHAI. 

October  6,  18S8. 

WE  sailed  in  the  “ Sakio  Maru”  for  Shanghai 
on  the  4th,  and  are  now  three  days  from 
Kobe.  Our  route  was  through  the  Inland  Sea; 
we  saw  for  the  last  time  the  countless  islands, 
picturesque  villages,  and  green  mountain-heights 
on  which  our  eyes  have  rested  during  the  trips  on 
this  coast.  From  the  middle  of  the  sea  the  hill- 
tops and  rice-fields  had  the  appearance  of  velvet, 
rivaling  green  Erin  in  her  beauty. 

Our  steamer  is  new,  having  left  England  on  her 
maiden  trip  but  three  months  ago.  She  is  com- 
plete, having  the  modern  improvements.  There 
is  machinery  to  change  the  air  of  the  vessel  every 
three  minutes  in  case  it  is  necessary  to  close  the 
hatchways  and  ports,  at  which  you  will  smile,  re- 
membering that  “fresh  air”  is  my  conspicuous 
idiosyncrasy.  The  weather  has  been  delicious 
and  the  sea  as  smooth  as  glass,  inclining  everybody 
to  remain  on  deck.  To-day  there  is  a swell  which 
banishes  some  to  their  state-rooms. 

There  are  more  than  a dozen  missionaries  on 

(90) 


Sailing  to  Shanghai.  91 

board,  among  them  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hill,  and  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Hendry,  of  our  Church,  and  Dr.  Woods, 
from  Virginia,  of  the  Southern  Presbyterian  Board. 
You  know  some  members  of  the  Woods  family. 
The  Doctor  and  I spent  an  hour  together  this 
afternoon  looking  up  Scripture  texts  for  illustrat- 
ing some  striking  pictures:  among  them  is  one  of 
Buddha,  whose  devotees  are  calling  upon  him. 
He  gives  no  heed,  and  they  strike  their  gongs  to 
compel  his  attention.  But,  as  when  the  prophets 
of  Baal  leaped  upon  the  altar  and  cried  unto  him 
“from  morning  even  until  noon,”  so  “there  was 
no  voice,  nor  any  that  answered”  from  the  throne 
of  Buddha.  Like  those  worshipers  twenty-eight 
hundred  years  ago,  they  cry  still  the  louder,  lest 
the  god  “is  talking,  or  pursuing,  or  on  a journey, 
or  asleep.”  No  word  or  sounding  brass  reaches 
that  dull  ear  from  “morning  even  until  noon,” 
and  on  to  the  “evening  sacrifice”  the  heavy  ear 
hears  not.  Disappointed  and  hopeless,  they  turn 
away  without  knowing  of  Him  who  is  nigh  unto 
all  that  call  upon  him. 

October  7. 

We  have  left  the  deep  blue  ocean,  and  are  in  the 
muddy  waters  of  the  Yellow  Sea.  The  great 
Yang-tse,  one  of  the  largest  rivers  in  the  world, 
traversing  China,  brings  the  accumulations  of  three 


92  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

thousand  miles  to  the  sea.  I have  heard  this  ex- 
planation of  the  color  of  the  Yellow  Sea,  but  do 
not  know  how  so  large  a body  of  water  can  be 
affected  by  even  three  thousand  miles  of  filthy 
China. 

October  8. 

We  are  in  Shanghai  with  hospitable  Mrs.  Allen. 
The  foreign  concessions  are  quite  handsome.  As 
we  entered  the  harbor  the  picture  was  beautiful. 
The  consulates,  residences  of  wealthy  men,  the 
hundreds  of  masts,  with  flags  of  various  nations, 
made  my  first  glimpse  of  the  city  a sight  to  be 
remembered.  Our  steamer  was  detained  several 
hours  at  the  mouth  of  the  Woo  Sung  waiting  for 
the  tide,  and  again  in  the  harbor  because  a man- 
of-war  stood  in  the  way. 


ON  THE  WOOSUNG,  NEAR  SHANGHAI. 


LETTER  X. 

THE  CHINA  MISSION  CONFERENCE— GLANCING  OVER  THE 
FIELD. 

Shanghai,  China,  October  17,  iSSS. 

WE  enjoyed  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Allen’s  hospitality 
for  more  than  a week.  The  Conference 
held  its  sessions  in  the  new  church  in  another  part 
of  the  city.  To  you  who  have  seen  only  the  large 
Conferences  at  home  it  would  have  seemed  a di- 
minutive body.  Ten  foreign  missionaries  (two  of 
whom,  Mr.  Hill  and  Mr.  Hendry,  have  but  just 
arrived)  and  nine  native  preachers  composed  the 
body.  At  home  we  number  old  men  as  well  as 
young,  while  here  Dr.  Allen  only  has  counted 
fifty  years.  Our  Chinese  brethren  wore  their  long 
cues  and  native  dress,  and  sat  very  patiently  dur- 
ing the  deliberations,  not  understanding  English. 
Mr.  Soon  alone  was  able  to  follow  all  that  was  said 
or  done.  Mr.  Dzau  also  understands  our  language, 
but  he  remained  in  Suchow  in  charge  of  the  hos- 
pital during  Dr.  Park’s  attendance  at  Conference. 
The  routine  work  and  questions  of  interest  were 
disposed  of  in  good  order.  Mr.  Burke  was  or- 
dained deacon  and  elder;  Mr.  Hendry,  elder. 
After  a full  discussion  of  all  matters  pertaining  to 

(93) 


94  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

the  work,  the  appointments  were  read  and  a new 
year  begun.  Not  a man  has  grown  weary  of  the 
hard  life ; not  one  would  turn  back,  though  hopes 
are  disappointed  and  some  failures  perhaps  await 
another  year’s  labor.  Their  devotion  and  self- 
sacrifice  are  almost  commensurate  with  their  gi- 
gantic undertaking.  There  has  been  success  all 
along  the  line,  but  the  work  grows  slowly  and 
makes  heavy  exactions  upon  their  faith  and  patient 
labor.  They  are  in  earnest;  and  the  door  is  ef- 
fectual, although  adversaries  abound.  On  one 
side  human  sympathy  is  thousands  of  miles  dis- 
tant, while  near  by  is  a language  without  begin- 
ning or  end,  an  atmosphere  of  noxious  vapors, 
foul  surroundings,  and  a people  hating  God  and 
working  iniquity.  On  the  other  hand,  the  Church 
across  the  sea  prays  for  them  and  the  Lord  God 
reigns.  They  know  they  are  part  of  the  eternal 
purpose,  and  they  expect  to  rejoice  in  the  “har- 
vest home.” 

During  the  year  Mr.  Reid  finished  and  dedicat- 
ed his  new  church  at  a cost  of  five  thousand  two 
hundred  dollars.  Already  he  has  a good  congre- 
gation and  fair  membership.  He  is  faithful  to  his 
people,  industrious  in  his  study,  and  always  re- 
members that  there  is  joy  in  heaven  over  one  sin- 
ner that  repents. 


The  China  Mission. 


95 


Dr.  Allen  and  Professor  Bonnell  have  a large 
field.  There  are  at  this  time  eighty  boys  and 
young  men  enrolled  in  the  Anglo-Chinese  College, 
who  compare  favorably  in  appearance  with  the 
same  number  at  home.  Their  features  and  dress 
are  peculiar  to  American  eyes.  Loose  trousers 
and  blouse  complete  the  costume;  the  half  of  the 
head  is  closely  shaven,  leaving  the  hair  on  the 
crown  to  grow  as  long  as  it  will.  The  cue  is 
braided  and  hangs  down  the  back,  the  pride  of 
every  Chinaman — a strange  thing,  for  it  is  really  a 
badge  of  servitude.  When  the  Tartar  rulers  con- 
quered China  they  ordered  the  men  to  shave  their 
heads  except  on  the  crown,  and  the  women  to 
button  their  gowns  on  the  left  side.  The  men 
obeyed,  but  the  women  fasten  their  garments  on 
the  right  side  to  this  day ! This  item  of  informa- 
tion reached  me  in  the  usual  way,  and  appears  to 
establish  the  statement  that  “ when  she  will,  she 
will;  and  when  she  won’t,  she  won’t ! ” I believe 
it  is  no  longer  a law,  but,  having  taken  hold,  the 
cue  is  the  delight  of  the  race.  We  went  through 
the  college  buildings.  There  is  a fair  collection 
of  apparatus  and  minerals,  bought  with  tuition 
fees,  which  last  meet  some  of  the  current  ex- 
penses of  the  school.  Students  from  a distance 
pay  about  the  same  room-rent  that  is  charged  at 


96  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

Vanderbilt  University,  the  restaurant  being  served 
by  a reliable  man.  Dr.  Allen  hopes  to  arrange  for 
the  sons  of  Christians  who  are  unable  to  pay  the 
fees.  Perhaps  some  philanthropic  friend  will  take 
the  matter  in  hand. 

After  all  “the  assessments”  are  paid,  how  hap- 
py a rich  man  must  feel  who  can  say,  “I  want  to 
give  something  over  and  above!”  We  attend  to 
business,  provide  for  our  families,  say  our  prayers, 
go  to  church,  and  help  pay  “the  assessments”  as 
part  of  the  routine.  But  every  earnest  man  does 
more.  He  loves  to  give  his  child  many  a beautiful 
surprise;  he  wants  to  pray,  often  longing  for  a 
“word  with  Jesus”  in  the  midst  of  business;  and 
after  he  has  given  all  he  was  asked,  he  is  glad  to 
offer  “good  measure  ” till  it  is  “pressed  down, 
shaken  together,  and  running  over.”  So  has 
God  given  to  him,  and  so  would  he  return  to  his 
Lord. 

The  two  new  men  fill  a gap,  but  do  not  help  to 
extend  the  work.  The  Suchow  Circuit  has  been 
left  “to  be  supplied”  for  two  or  three  years.  Mr. 
Hendry  is  to  go  to  that  work.  It  cannot  be  con- 
sidered an  extension.  Mr.  Loehr’s  health  having 
failed,  it  is  necessary  for  him  to  have  a rest  at 
home  in  Georgia.  Mr.  Hill  will  succeed  him  at 
Nansiang,  which  is  an  established  work.  If  we 


The  China  Mission. 


97 


push  into  the  interior,  there  must  be  a larger  force. 
The  province  which  we  have  entered  has  a popu- 
lation of  more  than  eighteen  millions,  to  whom  we 
have  sent  but  ten  men  from  America  and  nine  na- 
tive preachers.  If  we  would  do  our  share  in  sav- 
ing this  one  province,  the  Church  must  rise  to  the 
summit  of  self-sacrifice. 

Your  father  presided  at  the  Ladies’  Annual 
Meeting.  I cannot  tell  you  of  all  their  discussions. 
Those  on  foot-binding  and  the  “course  of  study” 
were  spirited.  There  is  a difference  of  opinion 
among  the  various  missions  on  the  subject  of  foot- 
binding. They  agree  as  to  its  evil,  but  not  as  to 
the  possibility  of  remedy. 

Nearly  all  the  missions  recommend  a course  of 
study,  with  annual  examinations.  A year  ago  our 
ladies  determined  to  follow  this  plan,  and  the  first 
business  after  they  met  was  the  examination  con- 
ducted by  Dr.  Allen  and  Dr.  Parker.  All  passed 
creditably.  After  free  discussion  and  consulta- 
tion with  the  gentlemen,  a course  was  decid- 
ed upon,  and  so  far  as  I hear,  while  the  work 
laid  out  will  employ  fully  the  hours  of  study,  it  is 
not  probable  that  even  the  newly  arrived  will  be 
overtasked. 

We  have  fifteen  ladies  at  work  in  China.  You 
may  think  these  are  all  we  will  need  for  a long 
7 


98  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

time.  I have  to  say  that  fifteen  capable  workers 
like  these  soon  open  avenues  for  fifteen  others. 
How  can  it  be  otherwise  ? The  work  of  one  grows 
till  she  cannot  compass  it.  It  must  be  so.  When 
these  fifteen  become  thirty,  the  thirty  ought  soon 
to  be  sixty.  Will  not  the  Church  see  this  and  re- 
double her  energy  ? The  future  usefulness  of  ev- 
ery  new  missionary  is  endangered  if  she  cannot 
give  the  half  of  her  time  to  acquiring  the  language. 
The  channel  of  communication  is  opened  and  held 
at  the  desk.  None  can  ignore  this.  A minor  con- 
sideration is  the  respect  given  to  one  who  uses  the 
Chinese  readily.  Our  missionaries  cannot  afford 
to  be  indifferent  to  the  estimation  in  which  they 
shall  be  held  by  those  whom  they  hope  to  lead 
into  the  way  of  everlasting  life.  They  look  on 
foreigners  as  barbarians,  and  on  women  as  infe- 
rior, soulless  creatures.  One  barrier  is  removed 
when  they  find  that  our  representatives  can  read 
and  speak  their  language. 

On  the  second  day  we  were  invited  to  Trinity 
Home  to  “tiffin”  to  meet  all  the  ladies.  Miss 
Haygood,  Miss  Hughes,  Miss  Atkinson,  Miss  Mc- 
Clelland, Miss  Muse,  Miss  Lipscomb,  Miss  Rob- 
erts, Miss  Reagan,  Mrs.  Campbell,  Dr.  Mildred 
Philips,  Miss  Philips,  Miss  Kerr,  Miss  Gordon, 
with  your  father  and  I,  sat  down  to  the  table.  Miss 


199) 


A CHINESE  ARTIST. 


The  China  Mission. 


99 


Rankin  and  Miss  Hamilton  were  unavoidably  ab- 
sent. It  was  a delightful  hour.  Fair  as  every 
thing  looked,  I found  that  Miss  Muse,  who  is 
housekeeper,  has  had  her  difficulties.  The  cook 
was  called  off  during  this  week  of  company  to 
perform  the  ancestral  worship  at  the  grave  of  his 
mother.  She  died  five  weeks  ago,  and  the  time 
for  special  rites  for  the  dead  had  come.  No  per- 
suasions nor  any  sense  of  obligation  to  his  kitchen 
could  hold  him : away  he  went  to  his  religious  ob- 
servance. 

The  ladies  have  had  a photograph  taken — Dr. 
Allen,  your  father,  and  myself  added  to  the  num- 
ber make  a group  of  eighteen.  On  the  whole,  it 
is  a satisfactory  picture. 

I stood  to-day  with  Miss  Haygood  beside  Dora 
Rankin’s  grave — our  first  grave.  It  is  a beautiful 
spot.  Heaven  bless  those  who  have  taken  up  her 
work,  and  all  those  who  give  themselves  to  this 
people  among  whom  our  dear  saint  sleeps ! And 
by  and  by  may  we  who  love  her  work,  and  who 
love  our  Lord’s  appearing,  stand  with  her  to  wel- 
come the  redeemed  hosts  of  China  to  “the  supper 
of  the  Lamb!  ” We  covered  the  earthly  resting- 
place  with  flowers,  and  I brought  away  a little  leaf 
that  had  grown  over  her  head. 

I wish  I could  give  you  an  idea  of  the  restful 


100  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

look  of  Trinity  Home.  It  is  on  the  street — I 
mean  immediately  on  the  thoroughfare,  crowded 
with  noisy  men,  women,  and  children.  There  are 
beggars,  rough  children,  hard-working  people,  jin- 
rikishas,  wheelbarrows,  hucksters  with  their  port- 
able ovens,  and  commissariats — all  sorts  of  sounds 
and  filth.  Entered  behind  the  wall  and  the  gate 
shut,  every  thing  unsightly  is  left  without.  The 
grass  is  as  smooth  as  velvet ; a lovely  vine  covers 
one  end  of  Trinity  Church;  a few  chrysanthe- 
mums grow  in  the  borders  and  in  pots  on  the  ve- 
randa; and  on  the  other  side  Clopton  School,  as 
clean  as  though  no  soil  existed  on  the  globe ; while 
here  and  there  is  seen  a Chinese  girl  walking  and 
talking  with  smiling  face  and  shining  eyes.  I can- 
not tell  the  difference  between  inside  and  outside. 
The  same  sun  shines  upon  the  just  and  the  unjust; 
but  the  just  are  like  the  sun,  “ a shining  in  the  dark- 
ness ! ” Outside  are  the  heathen,  not  knowing  nor 
wanting  to  know  of  the  perfect  day;  inside,  those 
whose  life  is  “hid  with  Christ  in  God.”  Out- 
side, the  demons  of  hell  let  loose;  inside,  heaven 
begun  below.  Outside,  the  hosts  rushing  to  de- 
struction; inside,  every  face  turned  toward  Him 
once  crucified,  but  now  risen  and  ascended  into 
the  heavens.  Our  little  band  does  not  want  to 
remain  inside,  enjoying  the  rest — they  prefer 


The  China  Mission. 


101 


to  be  up  and  doing.  They  are  about  their  Fa- 
ther’s business,  and  of  course  are  felt  on  the 
outside. 

I was  in  Clopton  School  several  times.  I have 
listened  to  the  recitations,  not  knowing  a word  that 
was  spoken,  but  enjoying  the  visit.  I did  under- 
stand the  neat  sewing,  the  pretty  embroideries,  and 
the  orderly  dormitories  and  work-room.  The  girls 
are  now  making  up  winter  clothes,  which  are 
amazing  constructions.  The  blouse  and  trousers 
are  thickly  wadded,  so  that  I am  sure  the  wear- 
ers will  be  as  broad  as  long.  They  have  taken 
great  pleasure  in  embroidering  a handkerchief 
for  me  and  a spectacle-case  for  your  father. 
Heaven  bless  those  dear  fingers,  and  in  the 
years  to  come  may  they  move  at  the  impulse  of 
God’s  love ! 

“Pigeon  English”  is  very  amusing.  Miss  Hay- 
good  is  an  expert.  She  took  me  shopping,  and 
these  are  some  of  the  phrases  that  I remember: 
“Talkie  one  piecee  man,  bring  come  my  house 
catchee  money,”  meaning  “Tell  a man  to  come 
to  my  house  for  the  money.”  Another:  “ My  go 
top  side,  lookee  see  have  got,”  meaning  “Go 
upstairs  and  see  if  I have  it.”  Again:  “ Missie 
wantchie  make  look  see,  by’m  by  come  again,” 
meaning  “The  lady  wants  to  look  to-day,  and  will 


102  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

come  again.”  Forgood-by:  “After  while  meet.” 
Your  father  is  “A  number  one  top  side  heaven 
business  man” — the  first  four  words  meaning 
bishop,  and  the  last  three  that  he  is  the  bearer  of 
a heavenly  message.  It  would  seem  easier  to 
learn  good  English,  but  I believe  they  speak  ac- 
cording to  the  Chinese  idiom. 


LETTER  XI. 


A TOUR  OF  THE  CANALS— THE  INTERIOR  MISSION  STATIONS— 
INTERESTING  OBSERVATIONS  AMONG  THE  PEOPLE. 

Suchow,  October  25,  18SS. 


UR  kind  friend  Mr.  Reid  arranged  for  our 


visit  to  the  interior  stations.  The  commis- 


sary department  of  his  “ house-boat  ” (we  made  the 
journey  by  canal)  was  well  regulated,  himself  being 
housekeeper  and  general  commanding,  the  sec- 
ond officer  being  Mrs.  Reid’s  cook.  Besides,  we 
had  a captain  and  three  sailors.  We  spread  our 
sails  on  the  19th,  in  company  with  Dr.  Allen,  who 
had  some  adjustments  to  make  for  the  Nansiang 
ladies ; Mr.  Loehr,  who  went  in  order  to  pack  and 
store  his  furniture;  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hill,  who 
were  starting  out  on  their  untried  and  unknown 
work.  We  left  Shanghai  in  the  sunshine.  It  was 
a lovely  morning.  The  canal  presented  a gay 
picture.  A hundred  or  more  boats,  anxious  as 
were  we  To  take  advantage  of  wind  and  tide, 
stretched  out  in  line  ahead  and  behind  us.  A 
mixture  of  Chinese  jargon,  the  splashing  of  pad- 
dles, the  rippling  of  the  waters,  were  kept  up  for 
several  hours,  when  we  turned  off  to  go  to  Nansi- 
ang, where  we  arrived  in  the  afternoon. 


(103) 


104 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

We  were  most  cordially  received  at  “Louise 
Home  ” by  Miss  Roberts  and  Miss  Reagan.  Lou- 
ise Home  was  the  gift  of  a Baltimore  lady  whose 
generosity  has  not  ceased.  An  invalid,  her  chief 
pleasure  is  in  good  works.  She  gave  the  name  of 
a sainted  sister  to  this  missionary  home. 

The  following  morning  the  ladies  walked  with 
us  through  the  narrow,  dirty  streets  of  the  town. 
The  shops  were  filled  with  all  sorts  of  goods — 
clothes,  uneatables,  incense,  peeled  oranges  by  the 
score,  the  delicious  persimmon,  fine-looking  vege- 
tables, and  fish  of  all  sizes  and  grades.  In  one  es- 
tablishment we  saw  the  process  of  compounding 
edibles  by  the  use  of  strange  machinery.  A very 
soiled-looking  man  stood  in  a tub,  working  with 
his  feet  a great  mass  of  vegetables  into  what  he 
and  his  constituency  consider  a savory  mess.  I 
was  told,  but  did  not  see  it,  that  the  packing  of 
tea-leaves  for  market  is  done  in  the  same  way. 
Every  day  I see  laundrymen  at  their  wash  in  the 
canal,  while  within  a few  feet  others  are  cleansing 
the  filthiest  vessels  and  making  ready  the  vegeta- 
bles for  the  next  meal.  The  indifference  of  the 
Chinese  to  various  nice  points  is  perceptible  to  the 
traveler  at  every  turn.  Many  of  their  habits  are 
extremely  disgusting. 

We  also  visited  a representation  of  the  Buddhist 


A Tour  of  the  Canals.  105 

Inferno,  situated  in  a dilapidated  temple,  a fitting 
spot  for  purgatorial  exhibitions.  On  his  throne,  in 
full  canonicals,  was  seated  the  great  dispenser  of 
destinies.  Before  him  appeared  the  wretched  vie- 
tims.  Thence  they  passed  to  their  doom.  One 
was  pinned  down  by  pitchforks  while  vultures 
preyed  upon  him  inch  by  inch,  another  was  de- 
voured  by  wild  beasts,  another  bound  in  a sea  of 
blood,  another  held  by  his  heels  in  a caldron  of 
boiling  oil,  another  flayed,  another  fastened  with- 
in reach  of  demons  fertile  in  torturing,  one  sawn 
asunder,  one  ground  between  millstones,  one  torn 
by  red-hot  pinchers,  and  others  the  victims  of  fiery 
serpents.  It  was  a poor  representation,  but  showed 
some  conception  of  the  horrors  of  the  lost.  This 
anguish  must  be  endured  for  ages,  when  perhaps 
the  condemned  may  be  returned  to  earth  in  the 
form  of  a hideous  reptile  or  in  the  body  of  an 
extreme  sufferer.  After  many  changes,  more  or 
less  connected  with  some  humiliating  pain,  he  may 
be  exalted  and  even  pass  into  Buddha.  Women 
have  been  known  who  accumulated  sufficient  merit 
to  be  allowed  to  return  to  earth  in  the  body  of  a 
man — an  exaltation  most  devoutly  to  be  worked 
for! 

Dr.  Walter  Lambuth  told  me  that  when  a boy 
wandering  in  one  of  these  temples  he  was  about 


106 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

to  step  on  a caterpillar,  when  a priest  begged 
him  to  be  careful,  the  worm  being  the  new  body 
of  a relative  just  returned  to  earth.  I have  heard 
that  the  indifference  to  deformity  and  pain  grows 
out  of  the  belief  that  these  are  punishments  for 
crime  in  some  former  state  of  existence.  China 
is  in  the  shadow  of  death,  though  her  history  be- 
gan three  thousand  years  ago.  It  is  an  overwhelm- 
ing thought  that  three  hundred  million  of  her  pres- 
ent population  never  heard  the  name  of  Jesus — 

That  Name  on  which  we  build, 

Our  shield  and  hiding-place; 

Our  never-failing  treasury,  filled 
With  boundless  stores  of  grace. 

Shall  the  “fullness  of  rapture”  in  the  “heaven 
of  heavens”  be  ours  alone?  or,  shall  not  “the 
smile  of  the  Lord”  be  also  the  feast  of  Japan  and 
China?  We  sing  and  realize: 

“How  happy  every  child  of  grace, 

Who  knows  his  sins  forgiven!” 

We  exult  in  the  thought  of  “ the  land  of  rest, 
the  saints’  delight.”  Shall  not  we  teach  China 
that  there  is  a “heaven  prepared”  for  all  them 
who  will  love  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ? 

Miss  Roberts  took  me  through  her  dormitories. 
The  beds  were  curtained  according  to  Chinese 
fashion.  The  coverings  were  folded  and  piled 


A Tour  of  the  Canals.  107 

lengthwise  on  the  side  of  the  mattress  next  to  the 
wall,  in  most  precise  order,  and,  though  so  differ- 
ent from  our  bed-making,  I liked  it.  The  schools 
and  church  at  Nansiang  are  greatly  in  need  of 
good  music.  When  Miss  Rankin  lived  there  she 
and  her  sister  paid  some  attention  to  this  branch  of 
work,  but  the  ladies  now  in  charge  do  not  sing. 
They  are  also  without  an  instrument.  Miss  Ran- 
kin’s friends  in  the  Memphis  Conference  pre- 
sented her  with  an  organ  some  years  ago,  which 
is  performing  good  service  in  Kiating.  [Long 
time  after,  writing  to  Mrs.  McGavock  in  behalf  of 
this  church  requirement,  I was  happy  to  hear  that 
the  young  ladies  of  the  Nashville  College  for 
Young  Ladies,  some  of  whom  were  classmates  of 
Miss  Reagan,  presented  her  with  an  organ.  I am 
sure  that  love  for  the  work  in  China  will  not  ob- 
scure her  love  for  her  alma  mater f In  the  tab- 
ernacle service  of  David’s  time  they  sung  with 
harps  and  cymbals,  and  afterward  in  the  great 
temple  the  trained  singers  had  their  trumpets. 
How  much  more  in  China,  where  there  seems  so 
little  idea  of  melody,  and  where  they  need  cultiva- 
tion through  the  eye  and  tongue  and  ear  beyond 
what  you  conceive,  ought  they  to  have  every  help 
toward  the  service  of  the  Lord ! 

Monday,  October  22,  we  spent  in  Kiating  with 


108  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

Miss  Rankin  and  Miss  Kerr,  who  are  the  only  for- 
eigners in  the  city.  Miss  Rankin  is  a courageous 
woman,  loves  her  work,  and  has  made  an  impres- 
sion upon  these  strangers.  These  ladies  live  in  a 
Chinese  house,  which  was  very  uncomfortable 
when  they  rented  it.  Miss  Rankin  secured  a 
proper  flooring  and  induced  her  landlord  to  build  a 
chimney.  The  native  Chinese  houses  have  no 
chimneys,  nor  do  the  people  use  stoves.  They 
increase  their  clothing  as  the  weather  grows 
cold,  and  sometimes  burn  charcoal  in  a brazier 
to  warm  the  room.  Miss  Rankin’s  home  is  very 
pretty.  A stove  in  the  sitting-room  will  keep  the 
ladies  comfortable  during  the  winter.  They  have 
no  fear,  though  they  are  surrounded  by  heathen. 
It  appeared  a very  formidable  undertaking  when 
Miss  Rankin  went  alone  to  this  city;  but  with  Miss 
Kerr  as  a reminder  that  she  still  belongs  to  us, 
and  neighbors  whose  friendliness  I witnessed,  I 
begin  to  see  that  her  usefulness  overbalances  the 
dangers  her  friends  feared.  She  says  the  time 
is  too  short  for  all  she  wants  to  do;  accordingly 
she  desires  no  holidays,  but  rests  herself  in  the 
happiness  of  working  among  these  people  of  her 
choice. 

The  front  of  her  house  is  one  large  window,  and 
is  very  pretty.  It  is  composed  of  small  bits  of 


A Tour  of  the  Canals.  109 

oyster-shells  set  in  lattice-work,  and  though  giving 
scarcely  sufficient  light,  yet  is  translucent. 

Miss  Rankin’s  Anglo-Chinese  school  for  boys 
is  well  managed.  The  rented  building  was  in 
beautiful  order  the  day  of  our  visit.  She  also  has 
a few  girls  in  her  charge  who  look  bright,  and 
she  says  they  are  very  sweet  and  attractive.  In 
her  court,  or  yard,  she  has  flowers,  and  every  thing 
around  her  tends  to  show  her  girls  and  her  neigh- 
bors that  a Christian  household  deserves  imitation. 
I believe  her  house  is  open  to  the  women  of  Kia- 
ting  at  all  hours,  no  matter  how  busy  or  how  tired 
she  is. 

We  left  Miss  Rankin  and  Miss  Kerr  just  before 
the  gates  of  the  city  were  closed  for  the  night, 
and  slept  again  upon  the  canal.  This  canal  trav- 
eling must  be  dangerous  to  the  health,  the  waters 
being  the  receptacle  for  all  manner  of  filth — a word 
one  must  use  often  in  speaking  of  China.  The 
villages  along  the  banks  have  no  other  outlet  for 
sewage;  and  as  they  have  no  drainage,  tons  of 
refuse  make  their  way  to  the  canals : the  nostrils 
are  offended,  and  I suppose  there  is  often  consid- 
erable sickness.  We  have  been  well,  but  I under- 
stand why  foreigners  are  subject  to  the  various 
forms  of  malarial  disease. 

We  have  had  favorable  winds  during  our  tour  of 


110  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

the  canals.  When  there  was  a lull  our  crew 
“tracked” — that  is,  they  harnessed  themselves  to 
the  boat  and  took  to  the  track  by  the  water-side. 
It  must  be  weary  work.  But  everywhere  in  China 
the  coolie  must  labor  to  the  uttermost,  never  hav- 
ing a holiday  save  at  New-year.  The  bridges  we 
have  passed  are  well-built  stone  structures.  John 
Chinaman  is  a born  engineer — that  is,  his  bridges 
are  perfect,  without  an  understanding  of  the  archi- 
tectural construction  of  the  arch. 

We  are  now  in  Suchow  with  the  Rev.  Dr.  and 
Mrs.  A.  P.  Parker.  We  have  a band  of  mission- 
aries in  this  city — our  host  and  his  wife,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Anderson  and  three  sturdy  boys,  Dr.  and 
Mrs.  Park,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hendry,  Miss  Philips, 
Dr.  Mildred  Philips,  Mrs.  Campbell,  and  Miss 
Gordon.  [Miss  Gordon  has  since  changed  her 
relation,  being  now  the  worthy  helpmate  of  Rev. 
W.  B.  Burke,  stationed  in  Sungkiang.]  We 
have  two  hospitals  here : one  belonging  to  the  Par- 
ent Board,  and  in  charge  of  Dr.  Park;  the  other 
was  erected  by  the  Woman’s  Board,  and  is  in  care 
of  Dr.  Philips. 

Dr.  Park’s  work  is  very  valuable.  He  is  assist- 
ed by  our  Chinese  friend  Mr.  Dzau,  better  known 
as  C.  K.  Marshall.  The  medical  department  is  a 
successful  arm  of  the  service.  If  we  win  China, 


Ill 


A Tour  of  the  Canals. 

she  must  be  touched  at  all  points.  Not  the  men- 
tal, nor  the  physical,  nor  the  spiritual  can  be  neg- 
lected. If  the  body  is  the  temple  of  the  Holy 
Ghost,  we  must  care  for  it,  lest  we  do  despite  to 
the  heavenly  Keeper.  Hence  our  two  hospitals. 
Last  year  Dr.  Park  and  Mr.  Marshall  treated  ten 
thousand  patients,  some  of  whom  were  great  suf- 
ferers, and  all  requiring  intelligent  attention. 

The  hospital  is  in  urgent  need  of  repairs.  In 
this  climate  houses  and  furniture,  as  well  as  the 
health,  become  dilapidated.  All  of  the  paint  and 
some  of  the  wood-work  need  renewal;  but,  above 
every  thing,  new  beds  and  bedding  are  necessary. 
That  now  in  use  should  be  burned:  it  is  unclean 
to  the  greatest  degree,  and  should  not  be  allowed 
inside  the  hospital.  For  the  same  reason  there 
ought  always  to  be  two  clean  suits  of  clothing  to 
each  bed.  Generally  the  patients  are  poor,  and 
their  bedding  and  clothing  are  covered  with  ver- 
min and  filth.  Also  musquito  canopies  are  requi- 
site. Think  of  a sick  man  too  feeble  to  brush  the 
many  musquitos  from  his  face  and  hands,  and 
you  will  perceive  this  need  cannot  be  too  much 
emphasized.  I pray  that  our  people  may  keep 
Dr.  Park’s  work  in  their  thoughts,  remembering 
that  here,  as  in  other  benevolent  undertakings, 
there  must  be  annual  donations. 


112 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

Three  students  having  gone  through  five  years 
of  study,  and  having  passed  satisfactory  examina- 
tion in  anatomy,  physiology,  chemistry,  materia 
medica  and  therapeutics,  practice  of  medicine, 
obstetrics,  surgery,  dermatology,  and  ophthalmol- 
ogy, were  awarded  diplomas.  When  the  day  of 
presentation  came,  one  “was  not,  for  God  took 
him.”  Of  the  two  remaining,  one  will  be  employed 
by  Dr.  Park,  the  other  by  Dr.  Philips.  Your  fa- 
ther presented  the  diplomas.  It  was  current  in 
Suchow  that  the  Emperor  of  America  had  sent 
Bishop  Wilson  to  China  to  perform  this  ceremony, 
and  consequently  great  confidence  is  expressed  in 
the  ability  of  the  new  doctors  to  cure.  Mr.  Mar- 
shall is  a faithful  man,  untiring  and  sensible.  He 
itinerates- through  the  villages  scattered  about  this 
city,  preaching  the  everlasting  gospel  as  he  dis- 
penses medicines.  The  two  go  hand  in  hand  with 
him — surgical  instruments,  medicine-chest,  and  the 
Bible  are  inseparable  in  his  practice.  He  enter- 
tained us  at  his  home  with  what  he  called  an 
Anglo-Chinese  supper.  He  spent  some  years  in 
Tennessee,  and  knows  how  to  combine  the  culi- 
nary art  so  that  one  hardly  knows  where  China 
ends  and  America  begins.  We  found  his  wife 
and  daughter  hospitable  and  agreeable,  though 
they  do  not  understand  English. 


A Tour  of  the  Canals.  113 

Mr.  Anderson,  the  presiding  elder,  finds  him- 
self loving  his  work  more  and  more  as  the  years 
go  on.  He  travels  about  this  region  constantly, 
and  seems  to  be  growing  into  the  belief  that  he 
should  make  a new  home  in  the  regions  beyond — 
that  is,  farther  into  the  interior,  where  none  but 
the  native  heathen  are  to  be  found.  This  would 
indeed  be  a sacrifice,  for  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Anderson 
would  thus  be  cut  off  from  all  “ communion  of 
saints.”  We  know  several  who  have  thus  left 
friends  for  interior  work.  It  is  not  a small  thing 
to  live  alone  with  the  heathen.  To  be  sure,  man 
and  wife  choose  to  be  all  the  world  to  each  other, 
and  we  expect  them  to  enjoy  home  life  above  all 
earthly  good.  Notwithstanding,  God’s  grace  alone 
can  enable  a missionary  or  a missionary  family  to 
give  up  “the  assembly  of  the  saints”  and  friendly 
ties,  to  have  no  other  association  but  the  pagan 
crowd  that  come  and  go  without  kindly  thought 
and  having  no  higher  aspiration  than  success  in 
the  things  of  sense.  We  honor  some  who  have 
done  it,  but  cannot  see  others  enter  upon  such 
self-abnegation  without  invoking  upon  them  the 
special  care  of  the  all-seeing  God. 

Dr.  Philips  has  just  opened  her  hospital.  She 
was  delayed  by  an  accident  more  than  a year  ago. 
This  delay  is  more  than  compensated  by  the  asso- 
8 


114  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

ciation  of  Mrs.  Campbell  with  Dr.  Philips.  If 
God  will,  in  its  future  is  wonderful  power.  The 
opening  was  very  felicitous.  Mr.  Reid  announced 
the  hymn  and  led  in  prayer.  Mr.  Anderson  read 
from  the  word  of  God.  Dr.  Parker  made  the 
Chinese  address,  all  the  native  Christians  of  the 
city  from  the  several  missions  being  present. 
Your  father  followed  with  remarks  to  missionaries 
of  our  own  Boards,  as  well  as  the  representatives 
of  the  two  Presbyterian  Boards,  there  being  also 
with  us  a few  Chinese  who  understand  our  tongue. 
The  entire  building  was  throw'n  open  for  inspec- 
tion. The  wards,  drug-room,  operating-room,  re- 
ception-room, room  for  clinic,  pantry,  kitchen, 
and  the  chapel  are  complete.  We  went  so  far  as 
to  examine  the  kitchen  range,  and  found  it  all  that 
could  be  desired.  A boy  stands  at  the  grate  to 
feed  it  every  minute,  if — as  when  we  looked — the 
fuel  be  straw,  which  makes  a hot  fire,  but  requires 
constant  renewal. 

A simple  collation  of  tea,  biscuits,  ham,  and 
fruit  finished  the  afternoon.  We  were  invited  into 
the  room  where  the  Chinese  guests  were  in  full 
enjoyment  of  their  feast:  a separate  table  was 
necessary,  because  their  menu  is  different  from 
ours.  An  innovation  was  made  on  this  occasion. 
The  native  friends,  male  and  female,  were  placed 


A Tour  of  the  Canals.  115 

in  the  same  room  for  this  evening  tea — for  here,  as 
in  Japan,  the  wife  eats  after  her  spouse  has  been 
served;  and  also  Chinese  women  rarely  appear  in 
company  of  the  other  sex.  A husband  and  wife 
are  not  seen  together  on  the  street:  one  of  our 
pastors  said,  “ If  I went  with  my  wife  to  walk,  all 
the  boys  in  town  would  be  after  us.”  I witnessed 
most  extravagant  mirth  last  week,  when  I took 
your  father’s  arm  in  passing  along  a very  rough 
place  in  the  twilight.  The  freedom  of  association 
allowed  our  young  people  would  not  be  tolerated 
here  for  an  hour. 

October  29. 

We  are  now  the  guests  of  Miss  Philips.  She 
goes  in  and  out — always  cheerful,  always  busy,  al- 
ways devoted  to  her  work.  Her  girls  are  never  out 
of  her  thoughts.  Some  of  them  have  already  begun 
“to  grow  into  Christ.”  Three  of  them  are  almost 
prepared  to  teach.  The  school  is  studying  He- 
brews, which  they  read  with  the  references.  Miss 
Philips  asked  this  morning,  “When  was  Jesus  a 
little  lower  than  the  angels?”  The  answer  came, 
“When  he  suffered  death  on  the  cross” — a cor- 
rect reply,  but  not  what  the  teacher  wished.  She 
called  on  them  to  turn  to  Philippians  ii.  6-8,  that 
they  might  see  his  entire  life  was  a humiliation.  I 
have  noticed  at  morning  prayers  (Chinese  reading 


11G  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

and  prayer  with  the  servants)  for  several  days  a 
very  forlorn-looking  man,  who  is  not  a member  of 
Miss  Philips’s  household.  I asked  to-day  who  he 
was,  and  received  the  reply:  “ He  is  my  cow  man, 
and  I insist  if  I deal  with  him  he  must  come  to 
prayers.  You  will  understand  it  better  when  I 
tell  you  the  cow — in  China  a very  ungainly  water 
buffalo — is  led  from  house  to  house  and  milked  at 
the  kitchen  door.  This  was  very  amusing  to  me 
when  I first  heard  of  it  in  Dr.  J.  W.  Lambuth’s 
home  in  Japan,  where  the  same  plan  is  pursued. 
In  this  way  housekeepers  may  water  the  milk  at 
their  own  sweet  will — not  the  dealers. 

I have  also  been  to  Miss  Gordon’s  school,  where 
I listened  to  the  recitation  of  Mark  ii.  together 
with  the  Catechism.  The  native  teachers  of  this 
school  had  heard  I was  to  make  them  a visit,  and 
prepared  for  me  a dish  of  sweetmeats  and  a pot 
of  tea  which  was  presented  steaming  hot,  with  a 
full-blown  rose  floating  in  the  cup. 

All  the  women  of  Central  and  Southern  China 
have  bound  feet — a deforming  practice,  distressing 
in  the  extreme.  It  is  said  that  the  smallest  shoes 
are  worn  in  Suchow.  Every  mother,  notwith- 
standing she  remembers  her  own  suffering,  binds 
the  feet  of  her  little  daughter:  the  child  would 
rather  bear  the  pain  than  the  disgrace  of  large  feet 


A Tour  of  the  Canals.  117 

— besides,  she  would  lose  all  chance  of  marriage, 
for  a husband  could  not  be  found  for  one  who  dis- 
regards this  fashion.  I have  seen  here  and  in 
Shanghai  a custom  quite  as  ultra — viz.,  finger- 
nails, three,  four,  and  nearly  five  inches  long,  a 
shield  of  bamboo,  tortoise-shell,  or  silver  being 
worn  for  protection.  Of  course  the  working-man, 
or  coolie,  cannot  indulge  in  such  fashion. 

Buffington  Institute,  in  charge  of  Dr.  Parker,  is 
located  in  Suchow.  There  are  now  seventy-five 
boys  under  instruction.  Of  these,  twelve  are  mem- 
bers of  the  Church,  and  as  many  more  are  proba- 
tioners. Two  of  the  graduates  are  in  our  ministry; 
two  others  are  licensed  to  exhort,  and  are  prepar- 
ing to  preach ; two  are  teaching  the  higher  mathe- 
matics for  Dr.  Parker,  and  one  of  these  is  super- 
intendent of  our  Sunday-school;  five  others  are 
teaching  in  our  schools ; two  are  teaching  in  Gov- 
ernment schools;  and  one  is  Dr.  Park’s  druggist, 
a faithful  teacher  in  the  Sunday-school,  and  prom- 
ises to  be  a useful  man : to  him  we  were  greatly 
indebted  for  attention  in  our  rounds  about  Suchow. 
You  will  see  that  the  school  has  made  a good  rec- 
ord. The  workshop  is  a feature  of  the  institution: 
here  they  learn  to  make  and  use  tools  of  various 
kinds.  A steam-engine  and  lathe  and  meteoro- 
logical instruments  have  been  set  up  and  are  in 


118  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

constant  use.  Also  a dynamo  feeds  an  electric  light 
for  the  instruction  and  entertainment  of  the  boys. 
As  soon  as  he  can  Dr.  Parker  wishes  to  establish 
a library.  I discovered  that  all  these  “ extras  ’’  are 
his  donations.  Are  there  not  some  who  will  be 
glad  to  furnish  the  amount  necessary  to  fill  the 
shelves  with  such  books  as  he  may  select?  He  is 
a workman  that  needeth  not  to  be  ashamed.  He 
knows  what  to  do  with  boys,  is  himself  a student, 
and  besides  finds  time  occasionally  to  go  with 
Mr.  Anderson  on  an  itinerating  tour.  Mrs.  Parker 
renders  him  constant  assistance  also,  having  charge 
of  four  day-schools  and  laboring  among  the  women 
of  Suchow.  She  prepared  an  arithmetic  in  Chi- 
nese the  past  year,  and  the  ladies  at  their  Annual 
Meeting  voted  to  publish  it  for  immediate  use. 

A word  concerning  daj^-schools.  When  it  is  re- 
ported that  four,  five,  six  day-schools  are  in  charge 
of  one  missionary  lady,  it  is  not  meant  that  she 
does  all  the  teaching  of  these  schools,  but  that 
she  superintends  the  whole.  The  Chinese  teach- 
ers are  of  her  selection,  and  are  under  her  man- 
agement. She  constantly  inspects  both  teachers 
and  taught,  all  understanding  themselves  to  be  re- 
sponsible to  her.  Her  plans  must  be  executed; 
and  as  far  as  I saw,  the  schools  were  happy  at  her 
presence. 


A Tour  of  the  Canals.  119 

The  streets  of  Suchow — indeed  of  all  the  cities 
I have  seen — are  narrow,  not  more  than  from  six 
to  nine  feet  wide,  and  are  filthy  beyond  words. 
Crowds  throng  them  all  day  long.  The  markets 
are  almost  impassable — buying,  selling,  eating,  gos- 
siping being  in  progress  from  early  morning  till 
late  at  night.  I have  wondered  whether  our  coo- 
lies would  be  able  to  bear  our  sedan-chairs  safely 
through  the  crowds:  they  pressed  on,  the  throngs 
were  good-natured,  and  I do  not  remember  that  we 
have  been  jostled. 

The  poor  of  China  do  much  of  their  eating  in 
the  market-house,  having  no  fire  in  the  home.  Of 
course  there  is  no  regular  family  life  in  these  cases. 
All  winter  many  households  are  without  heating 
apparatus.  The  abject  poverty  of  the  masses  is 
distressing.  Many  families  are  supported  on  a 
daily  outlay  of  a few  cents,  which  means  half- 
starved  men,  women,  and  children.  I have  seen 
hundreds,  perhaps  thousands,  of  pats  of  argol, 
laid  in  the  sun  to  dry,  which  were  to  be  used  for 
fuel  in  the  family  cooking.  Also  I see  women  and 
children  gathering  the  leaves  as  they  fall  from  the 
trees,  which  are  to  serve  in  like  manner  to  make 
a short-lived  blaze,  that  will  perhaps  boil  the 
water  for  the  daily  tea.  I was  informed  by  a lady 
living  for  twenty  years  far  in  the  interior  that  it  is 


120 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

a common  thing  for  the  poor  to  eat  snails,  dogs, 
spiders,  rats,  and  even  snakes,  fried  in  any  sort  of 
grease.  Though  such  squalor  may  disgust,  the 
heart  goes  out  to  a people  so  oppressed  by  penury. 
As  one  looks  into  these  faces  that  have  never 
known  comfort,  the  longing  comes  to  tell  them  of 
Him  who,  while  “he  had  not  where  to  lay  his 
head,”  was  Lord  of  eternal  glory,  and  in  whom  is 
compensation  for  every  ill  to  which  flesh  is  heir. 

Their  huts  betoken  the  same  poverty.  As  we 
have  sailed  and  paddled  and  “tracked”  along  the 
canals,  we  have  passed  many  a mud  or  bamboo 
hovel  built  against  the  city  walls,  thus  saving  the 
cost  of  one  side.  The  few  “cash”  thus  spared 
are  perhaps  the  only  hope  in  the  “rainy  day” 
that  comes  to  every  Chinaman. 

A copper  coin — from  ten  to  thirteen  making  one 
cent — is  the  only  money  in  circulation  except  the 
Mexican  dollar,  which  is  found  in  the  sea-ports  ( not 
in  use  in  the  interior).  It  is  easy  to  see  that  a 
family  of  six  who  live  on  one  hundred  and  fifty  or 
two  hundred  cash  per  day  cannot  approach  com- 
fort. 

Great  strings  of  cash — two,  three,  four  yards 
long — are  slung  across  the  shoulders  for  transpor- 
tation from  one  shop  to  another:  they  carry  their 
money  by  the  yard.  Our  little  pocket-books  are 


A Tour  of  the  Canals.  121 

of  no  use.  Travelers  going  into  the  interior  trans- 
mit the  coin  by  the  pound,  requiring  an  extra  mule, 
jinrikisha,  or  coolie  for  the  heavy  load. 

A few  days  ago  we  visited  one  of  the  Suchow 
bazaars,  where  one’s  strength  was  required  to 
stand  firmly  in  the  midst  of  a crowd  of  several 
thousand,  pressing  on  all  sides.  Chinese  wares  of 
many  sorts  were  on  exhibition,  while  men  of  va- 
rious sizes,  conditions,  attractions  (or  lack),  and 
ages  clamored  for  the  patronage  of  the  visitors.  I 
am  sure  I should  not  have  held  my  own  if  our 
young  Chinese  friend  had  not  been  by  my  side. 
A dozen  tongues  and  twice  as  many  hands  assailed 
us  at  every  turn.  No  sooner  was  one  set  disposed 
of  than  another  was  equally  clamorous.  It  was 
bedlam.  I think  we  spent  twenty-five  cents,  a sum 
sufficient  to  support  a family  for  two  days. 

Suchow  is  a walled  city.  This  wall  was  built  two 
thousand  and  three  hundred  years  ago,  but  has 
passed  through  many  vicissitudes  and  been  bat- 
tered down  time  and  again.  It  is  thirty  feet  high 
and  fifteen  (or  more)  thick.  So  you  see  this  city 
dates  back  long  before  the  time  of  Christ.  When 
he  walked  up  and  down  the  hills  and  valleys  of 
Judea  and  Galilee,  these  streets  over  which  I trod 
were  traversed  by  those  who  would  have  joined  in 
the  cry  “ Crucify  him  ! crucify  him  ! ” had  he  been 


122 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

in  their  midst.  He  was  but  five  thousand  miles  away, 
and  they  knew  him  not.  Almost  nineteen  hundred 
years  have  gone,  and  still  they  know  him  not. 
To-day  Buddhist  priests  by  the  score  are  preach- 
ing up  and  down  the  miles  I have  but  just  traveled, 
until  the  Chinese  say  the  very  stones  rise  to  listen ; 
while  our  Church  has  here  but  nine  men  to  preach 
the  everlasting  gospel  to  the  eighteen  millions  of 
this  one  province ! O when  shall  we  reach  them 
with  the  story  of  the  Son  of  man,  so  that  these 
deaf  ears  shall  be  unstopped  and  these  ignorant 
souls  rise  from  out  the  superstitions  of  centuries? 

China  is  one  universal  cemetery.  Four  hundred 
millions  are  here,  while  we  walk  over  the  grave- 
mounds  of  as  many  more  who  lie  beneath  the  sod. 
There  are  no  public  cemeteries,  except  those  near 
the  ports,  which  are  laid  out  by  foreigners.  The 
Chinaman  buries  wherever  the  soothsayer  finds 
a lucky  place.  The  dead  are  kept  in  the  house, 
often  for  days,  weeks,  and  years,  until  the  geo- 
mancer  discovers  the  auspicious  hour  and  location 
for  interment.  I have  seen  many  coffined  dead 
left  in  the  field  or  on  the  highway  to  await  the 
fortunate  announcement. 

O the  smells  of  Suchow!  They  are  beyond  de- 
scription. One  almost  sees  and  hears  and  tastes 
them.  Our  Brother  Dzau  calls  them  “ celestial 


A Tour  of  the  Canals.  123 

odors.”  Only  this  Celestial  Empire  produces 
them.  The  most  wonderful  thing  here  is  the 
smells,  unless  it  be  the  Suchow  belief  that  under 
this  city  lies  the  great  dragon  of  China.  He  must 
not  be  offended,  for  the  excitement  of  anger  would 
cause  him  to  move,  which  would  shake  Suchow 
from  its  foundations.  His  tail  is  immediately  un- 
der the  Black  Pagoda,  and  its  trembling  has  more 
than  once  produced  earthquakes.  I believe  if  he 
were  to  turn  over,  the  country  would  be  wiped  out 
of  existence.  His  pleasure  must  be  consulted  with 
the  same  assiduity  as  that  given  to  the  Fung-Shui. 


LETTER  XII. 


AGAIN  OVER  LAKE  AND  CANAL— THE  INTERIOR  JOURNEYINGS 
ENDED. 

ROM  Suchow  we  went  to  Hang-chow,  a long 


journey  on  the  canal.  Our  way  took  us 
across  the  Great  Lake,  the  most  beautiful  sheet  of 
water  in  China.  Our  little  “house-boat”  skipped 
before  the  wind.  These  journeys  are  often  weari- 
some, but  to  us  they  are  new  and  interesting.  The 
weather  has  been  good,  we  have  eaten  and  slept 
well,  and  so  many  new  things  have  kept  our  eyes 
and  thoughts  busy  that  the  days  have  flown  rap- 


Many of  the  canal-boats  have  eyes  painted  on 
the  bows — and  indeed  some  pn  the  seas  follow  this 
fashion.  The  sailors  say:  “No  have  eye,  no  see; 
no  see,  no  sabe;  no  sabe,  no  walkee  water;  no 
walkee  water,  how  go?”  It  is  conclusive.  Of 
course  the  boats  must  have  eyes. 

When  we  came  to  the  “Bridge  of  Silence ” over 
one  of  the  canals  our  captain  made  special  request 
that  not  a word  be  spoken  till  we  had  passed; 
otherwise  great  damage  to  the  boat  and  all  on 
board  would  have  ensued ! When  I happened  on 


idly. 


(124) 


End  of  the  Interior  Journeys.  125 

deck  at  sunrise,  I saw  our  crew  worship  the  sun ; 
and  several  times  when  there  was  no  wind  they 
called  upon  the  god  for  the  great  propeller.  Not- 
withstanding we  have  been  occupied  with  so  many 
strange  sights,  since  leaving  Shanghai  we  have 
read  a large  work  on  Japan,  a “Treatise  on  the 
Will,”  an  “Early  History  of  China,”  a long  “Ac- 
count of  the  Black  Plague  of  the  Twelfth  and 
Thirteenth  Centuries,”  a story  of  George  Mac- 
Donald’s, and  have  written  six  letters,  besides 
talking  much — I will  not  say  how  the  reading  and 
talking  were  divided.  The  tour  has  been  delight- 
ful, Mr.  Reid  being  a good  housekeeper  and  host. 

In  Hang-chow  we  were  hospitably  entertained 
at  the  mission  of  our  Southern  Presbyterian 
friends.  The  veteran  Miss  Kirkland  and  Rev. 
Mr.  Lancaster  were  our  kind  hosts.  Miss  Kirk- 
land has  been  constantly  at  work  for  fifteen  years, 
Heaven  having  spared  her  health.  She  is  pos- 
sessed of  such  energy  and  love  that  no  missionary 
in  this  empire  will  have  a brighter  record.  In  the 
“day  of  the  Lord”  thousands  will  rise  to  call  her 
blessed.  I should  have  been  charmed  to  go  with 
her  to  the  country  on  one  of  her  itinerating  tours 
of  several  weeks,  when  her  association  is  exclu- 
sively with  the  Chinese,  but  we  are  straitened  for 
time.  Their  work  in  Hang-chow  is  prosperous. 


126 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

The  girls’  boarding-school  on  the  premises  is  in 
fine  condition.  We  were  present  during  recitation 
hours,  and  enjoyed  the  hymns:  these  were  the 
same  we  have  loved  at  home  save  the  words,  which 
were  too  intricate  for  our  understanding. 

The  country  about  Hang-chow  is  beautiful.  We 
climbed  the  high  hills,  sailed  over  the  lake,  looked 
into  the  shops,  walked  the  streets,  and  left  with 
regret. 

Once  again  on  the  canal,  we  turned  our  faces 
toward  Sungkiang,  where  Mr.  Burke  is  working 
with  all  his  might.  He  was  not  at  home,  having 
been  called  away  by  urgent  business.  We  looked 
through  his  school,  his  house,  his  flowers,  his 
chapel,  saw  his  teachers  and  preachers,  walked  to 
the  lot  which  we  hope  to  buy  so  that  we  shall  be 
established  in  this  city,  but  missed  the  pleasant 
face  of  Mr.  Burke.  We  called  at  the  house  of 
one  of  the  native  pastors.  We  were  received  in 
a neat  room,  furnished  in  Chinese  style — very 
straight-backed  chairs  (which  reminded  me  of  our 
grandmothers,  who  sat  upright  from  the  cradle  to 
the  grave),  three  or  four  small  square  tables  which 
with  the  chairs  are  set  against  the  wall ; their  ideas 
of  neatness  permit  no  diagonal  placing,  nor  is  the 
middle  of  the  room  ever  disordered  by  any  piece 
of  furniture.  The  walls  were  decorated  by  paper 


End  of  the  Interior  fourneys.  127 

banners  representing  the  seasons.  There  was  no 
mat  or  rug  upon  the  floor.  The  wife  and  children 
were  tidy,  with  the  smoothest  hair  and  with  cheer- 
ful faces.  Of  course  tea  was  served.  Tea  and 
water-melon  seed  are  always  handed.  I noticed 
they  sent  out  for  the  boiling  water,  which  meant 
there  was  no  fire  in  the  kitchen.  Some  corner 
brazier,  I dare  say,  furnishes  the  families  of  the 
neighborhood  with  a pint  of  boiling  water  three  or 
four  times  a day,  for  a small  consideration. 

Sungkiang  was  our  last  stopping-place.  Shang- 
hai was  but  a few  hours  away,  when  we  stepped 
aboard  the  house-boat  for  the  last  time.  As  we 
neared  the  end  of  the  journey,  the  captain  was 
taken  quite  sick.  His  final  remedy  was  so  amaz- 
ing that  I record  it.  I afterward  found  that  it  was 
well  known  to  Chinese  materia  medica.  The  pa- 
tient was  punctured  with  a needle  over  the  offend- 
ing surface.  It  may  be  that  I am  antiquated,  for 
why  should  not  this  treatment  be  as  efficacious 
as  cupping,  leeching,  blistering,  and  mustard- 
plasters  ? 

I do  not  remember  the  many  things  that  inter- 
ested us  during  this  journeying  on  the  canals.  The 
postal-boats  are  rowed  by  the  feet:  a very  curious 
arrangement,  I thought. 

We  saw  large  droves  of  ducks,  trained  to  obey 


128 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

the  movements  of  a long  bamboo-rod  in  the  hands 
of  the  keeper,  who  brings  them  to  the  water  every 
morning  and  drives  them  back  to  the  pen  at  night. 
Ducks  being  a staple  in  the  markets,  great  care  is 
taken  of  them.  It  was  surprising  to  see  them  so 
well  acquainted  with  the  motion  of  a long  pole, 
for  one  is  accustomed  to  think  them  intent  upon 
aquatic  pursuits,  knowing  only  their  one  musical 
sound,  and  how  to  grow  fat.  There  were  never 
any  stragglers,  all  moving  with  the  rod  to  the  right 
or  left. 

In  many  of  the  inlets  on  the  canal  a water 
chestnut  that  is  quite  edible  is  grown.  Boiled, 
grated,  and  beaten  with  eggs,  milk,  and  butter,  it 
makes  a toothsome  pudding. 

Cormorant  fishing  is  also  one  of  the  industries. 
I missed  the  sight,  but  your  father  had  the  pleasure 
of  watching  the  process.  A ring  is  placed  around 
the  throat  of  the  cormorant  to  prevent  him  from 
swallowing  the  fish.  The  birds  swim,  dive,  catch 
their  prey,  and  convey  it  to  the  fishing-smack. 


LETTER  XIII. 


THE  MISSION-SCHOOLS  IN  SHANGHAI— THEIR  GOOD  MANAGE- 
MENT—IN  THE  HOMES  OF  THE  NATIVES. 

Shanghai,  November  17,  1S88. 

E have  been  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Reid  for 


the  past  week,  in  the  new  mission  parson- 


age. It  is  a comfortable  home,  but  not  a “fine 
house.”  I heard  on  the  steamers  and  in  America 
that  missionaries  live  extravagantly.  This  is  not 
true  of  any  household  I have  entered  in  Japan  or 
China.  There  is  no  expensive  living  among  our 
friends.  The  rooms  and  halls  are  large ; but  in  the 
long,  hot  summers,  with  atmosphere  almost  as  try- 
ing as  that  of  Africa,  large  rooms,  high  ceilings,  and 
many  windows  are  necessary.  For  proof  of  damp- 
ness, I mention  that  dresses  which  are  laid  aside 
for  a few  weeks  become  so  moldy  that  frequently 
they  are  ruined.  Packing-trunks  must  be  exam- 
ined often,  if  blankets,  rugs,  furs,  and  clothing  are 
saved.  What  the  damp,  hot  summer  does  to  house- 
hold goods  it  also  does  to  the  constitution.  The 
wood-work  of  the  dwelling  wears  out:  so  does  the 
health  of  our  workers,  unless  they  are  carefully 
provided  for.  My  needles  and  scissors  are  rusted 
so  that  I cannot  use  them,  although  we  have  had 


9 


(129) 


130  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

no  rain,  but  constant  sunshine.  Very  few  persons 
escape  injury  to  their  health,  and  the  least  we  can 
do  is  to  give  our  missionaries  comfortable  houses. 

This  morning  we  came  to  Trinity  Home,  to 
spend  a few  days  with  Miss  Haygood,  Miss  Mc- 
Clelland, Miss  Muse,  Miss  Atkinson,  Miss  Hughes, 
and  Miss  Hamilton.  This  is  a busy  family.  All 
are  constantly  at  work,  in  the  school,  among  the 
women,  or  in  the  study  of  Chinese.  This  fore- 
noon I spent  with  Miss  Atkinson  at  two  of  her 
schools.  We  took  jinrikishas,  having  a long  dis- 
tance before  us,  and  went  through  many  dirty 
streets  to  the  dingy  rooms  where  the  day-schools 
are  located.  It  would  seem  that  the  choice  was 
made  in  favor  of  dark  places.  Here  the  sunshine 
is  hardly  seen,  and  the  hearts  black  with  sin  have 
never  heard  of  the  “Light  of  the  world.”  The 
schools  of  America  are  not  found  in  such  un- 
wholesome corners.  Many  of  us  were  taught  in 
unpretentious  houses,  but  these  were  open  to  sun- 
light, and  perhaps  were  surrounded  by  trees, 
grass,  and  flowers.  The  Chinese  houses  where 
our  day-schools  are  found  have  nothing  in  them 
to  be  desired,  save  souls.  The  windows  are  few 
and  small,  because  the  evil  spirits  are  on  the  look- 
out for  an  entering  place;  and  once  in,  the  family 
has  great  difficulty  in  getting  rid  of  them.  As  on 


Schools  and  Homes  in  Shanghai.  181 

the  western  extremity  of  this  continent  nineteen 
hundred  years  ago  the  poor  had  the  gospel 
preached  to  them,  so  to-day  in  China  the  lost 
are  sought,  without  respect  to  outside  attractions. 
Again  the  poor  have  the  gospel. 

Miss  Atkinson  began  with  the  Catechism,  and 
after  great  painstaking  several  in  both  schools 
showed  a good  understanding  of  the  lesson.  The 
Bible  lesson  followed.  Chinese  children  have  an 
astonishing  gift  in  memorizing,  having  been  trained 
in  this  particular  from  the  beginning.  I have  been 
told  that  the  main  test  of  education  throughout 
the  empire  is  in  committing  to  memory  the  books 
of  Confucius ; and  though  there  are  almost  un- 
numbered volumes,  many  of  the  Chinese  are  able 
to  recite  perfectly  the  entire  writings  of  the  great 
teacher.  One  of  Miss  Atkinson’s  little  scholars, 
not  quite  five  years  old,  knows  one  thousand  of 
these  perplexing  Chinese  characters;  besides,  she 
repeats  many  chapters  in  the  New  Testament,  both 
Catechisms,  and  page  after  page  of  the  literature 
of  her  own  language,  such  as  a Confucian  book 
on  etiquette,  and  another  on  morals.  She  stops 
only  when  Miss  Atkinson  says  so ; and  she  is  one 
of  many. 

The  Chinese  teachers  set  one  of  the  schools  to 
studying,  the  peculiarity  of  which  was  amazing. 


132  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

All  joined  in  chorus.  They  were  not  at  work  at 
the  same  lesson,  but  they  haivled  together,  keep- 
ing good  time — a howling  chant,  or  intoning  in 
concert.  A school  can  be  heard  at  a long  dis- 
tance. When  the  pupil  is  ready  to  try  his  memory, 
he  “backs”  his  book — that  is,  rises  and  stands 
with  his  back  to  the  book,  and  undertakes  to  repeat 
what  he  has  studied.  When  the  time  for  recita- 
tion comes,  he  “backs”  the  teacher.  It  is  said 
that  children  commit  the  “ characters,”  or  Chinese 
words,  to  memory,  not  understanding  a sign:  it  is 
simply  a matter  of  sight  and  memory.  When 
about  ten  or  twelve  years  old,  explanations  are 
made,  and  the  meaning  begins  to  dawn  upon  their 
minds.  There  are  eighty  thousand  (more  or  less) 
“ characters  ” in  the  language.  It  is  wonderful 
that  the  little  eyes  which  have  been  at  work  or 
play  but  five  or  six  years  can  be  trained  to  recog- 
nize such  complicated  signs. 

November  iS. 

This  is  the  Sabbath.  No  notice  is  taken  of  the 
day,  except  among  Christians.  The  markets, 
shops,  counting-rooms,  the  trades  all  going;  ped- 
dlers, shoe-makers,  serving-women,  house-builders, 
“hewers  of  wood  and  drawers  of  water,”  are  at 
work  with  the  same  speed  of  other  days.  With 
our  missionaries  it  is  likewise  a busy  day.  This 


Schools  and  Homes  in  Shanghai . 133 

afternoon  I went  with  Miss  Atkinson  and  Miss 
Lipscomb  to  their  three  o’clock  Sunday-school  in 
a village  outside  of  Shanghai.  Their  “ Bible- 
woman”  always  accompanies  them.  About  fifty 
poor  women  and  children  met  us,  in  a hut,  with- 
out floors,  without  windows,  and  into  which  the 
sunlight  rarely  shines.  My  heart  went  out  to  these 
poor  creatures,  who  had  never  in  their  lives  had  a 
good  thing.  They  are  so  poor  and  wretched  that 
they  do  not  know  the  meaning  of  joy.  All  the 
world  needs  the  blood  of  Jesus,  but  I felt  that  these 
hopeless  ones  must  be  told  the  story  of  abounding 
grace.  How  can  we  claim  its  blessing  unless  we 
help  to  send  the  tidings  to  such  as  these?  We 
prayed  and  sung  and  talked,  rejoicing  that  we 
were  chosen  to  give  them  their  first  glimpse  of  the 
cross.  The  time  was  too  short  to  tell  the  won- 
drous love  of  Jesus.  They  begged  us  to  stay  all 
night,  saying  that  they  had  a bed  and  would  buy 
us  beef,  thus  offering  us  their  hospitality  accord- 
ing to  the  fullness  of  their  hearts.  It  was  possible 
that  they  were  without  meat,  because  they  were 
vegetarians,  as  many  Buddhists  are.  Such  will  on 
no  account  eat  flesh  or  take  the  life  of  any  animal. 
This  is  reckoned  highly  meritorious.  I met  an  old 
woman  in  Hang-chow  who  likes  the  “Jesus  doc- 
trine,” but  will  not  accept  it  because  this  merit  of 


134  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

hers — abstinence  from  meat  for  fifty  years — must  be 
discarded.  If  she  could  have  one  and  hold  to  the 
other,  she  would  gladly  acknowledge  Christ.  When 
we  left  the  hut  the  women  and  children  escorted 
us  for  some  distance — perhaps  a quarter  of  a mile 
— beseeching  us  to  “ go  slowly  ’ ’ and  to  come  again. 
[I  afterward  found  that  the  Chinese  commonly 
escort  a guest  a short  distance  on  the  way  home. 
Several  times  Miss  Atkinson’s  schools — every 
child,  headed  by  the  teachers — conducted  us  to 
the  outer  gate  or  door  on  leaving  them.] 

November  19. 

I went  with  Miss  Haygood  to-day  to  one  of  her 
schools  for  boys.  How  she  labored  to  impress 
the  word  of  God  upon  their  hearts ! It  is  on  the 
lips  of  the  boys.  They  too  know  chapters  by  the 
score.  She  was  not  satisfied  until  she  found  they 
understood.  Perhaps  the  most  difficult  lesson  a 
Chinaman  learns  is  that  he  is  a sinner.  Sin  is  an 
unknown  thing  to  his  heart.  He  has  the  right  to 
do  as  he  pleases,  so  that  he  is  not  discovered. 
Miss  Haygood  endeavored  to  show  these  boys  that 
they  are  sinners,  and  that  for  them,  as  well  as  for 
the  world,  there  is  but  one  hope.  Their  fathers 
do  not  believe  it,  but  God  grant  that  the  children 
early  learn  the  sinfulness  of  sin  ! The  Holy  Ghost 
can  and  will  “convince  the  world  of  sin  if  we 


Schools  and  Homes  in  Shanghai.  135 

are  “instant  in  season,  out  of  season.”  What 
hopes  hang  on  our  faithfulness?  China  believes 
herself  “ whole,”  needing  no  Physician:  she  will 
perhaps  never  “feel  her  need  of  him,”  unless  ivc 
rise  to  the  summit  of  self-sacrifice  and  devote  our- 
selves to  confronting  the  power  of  sin  in  that  land. 

We  wound  up  the  morning  with  an  arithmetic  les- 
son. The  younger  boys  had  their  second  black- 
board exercise.  How  eager  each  boy  for  his  turn  ! 
how  laborious  to  catch  every  curve  and  angle  of 
Miss  Haygood’s  figures!  Such  a rubbing  out  and 
putting  back,  till  each  little  fellow  thought  he  had 
made  an  exact  imitation  ! How  they  smiled  at  com- 
mendation ! Afterward  the  large  boys  added  up 
long  columns  of  numbers  as  fast  as  Miss  Haygood 
wrote.  I doubt  not  that  many  of  them,  although 
they  came  from  the  poorest  homes,  will  become 
useful  in  their  generation  as  Christians,  as  citizens, 
as  business  men.  If  the  gospel  had  not  found 
them,  they  would  continue  in  the  darkness  where 
they  were  born.  The  truth  as  it  is.  in  Jesus  will 
transform  them ; civilization  has  never  done  it. 
The  cross  of  Christ  is  the  only  power  that  changes 
men’s  lives:  in  this  alone  is  our  hope  for  the  boys 
and  girls  who  occupied  our  thoughts  during  this 
brief  visit  at  Trinity  Home.  There  is,  of  course, 
a larger  outcome  from  the  boarding-schools  than 


136  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

from  the  others.  The  boy  must  soon  begin  to 
earn  money,  and  the  girl  must  not  be  on  the  street 
much  after  she  is  twelve  years  old.  Thus  we  lose 
■ — to  our  short  sight  it  looks  so — our  day-scholars. 
But  in  the  boarding-school  the  influence  extends 
through  years,  and  we  often  obtain  such  a hold  on 
our  girls  that  they  are  ours  for  life,  even  though 
they  become  wives  and  mothers.  It  was  provi- 
dential that  schools  became  a part  of  missionary 
work. 

November  20. 

I spent  to-day  with  Miss  Muse  in  Clopton  School. 
The  first  thought  was  that  with  which  I closed 
yesterday’s  diary.  The  difference  between  the 
girls  on  the  street  and  those  in  Clopton  School 
(or  in  Miss  Rankin’s,  or  Miss  Philips’s,  or  Miss 
Roberts’s  care)  is  such  that  no  opposer  of  educa- 
tion as  a means  to  Christian  training  could  stand 
against  this  “object-lesson.”  Our  girls  look  to 
be  a high  class  of  Chinese,  whereas  they  come 
from  the  same  homes  and  training  as  the  thousands 
that  pass  us  every  day  on  the  streets.  These  have 
stepped  upon  a higher  plane.  Whereas  before 
they  knew  nothing  better  than  “envy,  murder,  de- 
ceit, malignity,”  being  “backbiters,  haters  of  God, 
proud,  inventors  of  evil  things,  without  under- 
standing, covenant-breakers,  without  natural  af- 


Schools  and  Homes  in  Shanghai.  137 

fection,  implacable,  unmerciful,”  they  begin  to 
desire  to  be  well-pleasing  to  the  Lord  God. 

The  first  visit  I made  was  to  the  sewing-room, 
where  Miss  Muse  examined  the  work  of  the  previ- 
ous evening,  which  had  been  in  charge  of  the  Chi- 
nese teacher.  Here  our  girls  make  every  thing 
they  wear,  even  their  shoes,  which  are  altogether 
unlike  ours.  The  older  girls  sew  well,  very  well. 
They  are  at  this  time  making  me  a suit  of  Chinese 
clothing — the  shoes,  socks,  trousers,  skirt,  and 
blouse.  The  little  stitches  are  as  beautiful  as  any 
American  hand-sewing  of  to-day.  God  bless  the 
dear  fingers,  and  find  them  heavenly  employment ! 
After  awhile  may  they  “fetch  and  carry”  for 
their  country-women,  leading  them  to  Jesus  Christ 
the  Lord!  From  the  work-room  I went  into  one 
of  the  recitation-rooms,  where  we  had  the  Bible 
lesson  from  Hebrews  x.  The  chapter  was  read; 
then,  according  to  custom,  each  read  the  verse  she 
had  selected  and  made  her  own  comment.  Miss 
Muse  and  I took  our  turn,  she  choosing  the  twenty- 
second  verse  and  I the  first  clause  of  the  thirty- 
eighth. 

The  physiology  study  followed.  The  lesson 
was  on  bones,  and  for  an  hour  the  class  was  well 
drilled.  Miss  Muse  has  also  put  the  Church  Dis- 
cipline in  the  school.  A new  thing  under  the  sun  ! 


138  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

Dr.  Parker  has  completed  the  translation  of  the 
Discipline  of  1886.  The  school-girls  are  to  com- 
mit to  memory  the  baptismal  vows,  and  the  ritual 
for  reception  of  members  into  the  Church.  Is 
there  a school  in  America  that  studies  the  Disci- 
pline ? 

November  21. 

I went  with  Miss  Atkinson  to  two  other  schools, 
which  consist  of  the  poorest-looking  children  that 
I have  seen,  even  in  China.  “Tattered  and 
torn’’  though  they  be,  they  are  learning  the  same 
great  truths  so  dear  to  our  hearts. 

November  23. 

Miss  Haygood’s  remaining  schools  occupied  us 
this  morning.  One  of  them  was  well  filled  with 
fine-looking  boys.  They  do  not  know  it,  but  they 
are  reaching  the  crisis  of  life : their  future  is  be- 
ing settled,  their  characters  forming,  and  soon  it 
will  be  known  what  manner  of  men  they  will  be. 

This  afternoon  our  native  Christian  women,  and 
a few  outside  friends,  came  to  afternoon  tea  with 
me,  according  to  previous  invitation.  Well-nigh 
fifty  Chinese  were  present.  We  chatted,  drank 
tea,  and  ate  sponge-cake ; a little  later  on  we  had 
a sendee  of  prayer  and  song.  A very  few  had 
been  invited  who  are  still  devoted  to  their  idols. 
They  seemed  to  enjoy  our  simple  entertainment, 


139 


Schools  and  Homes  in  Shanghai. 

and  were  even  affectionate  in  manner  toward  us. 
I could  not  rid  myself  of  the  painful  sight  of  their 
bound  feet.  They  hobble  about  in  ungraceful 
gait.  Those  who  were  with  us  to-day  have  passed 
the  time  of  suffering;  though,  except  the  working- 
women,  whose  feet  are  not  bound  so  tightly,  none 
of  them  could  walk,  as  we  do,  for  miles.  The  en- 
durance of  little  girls  is  touching:  woman  is  taught 
the  lesson  of  fortitude  from  babyhood.  What  will 
she  be  after  awhile,  when  it  becomes  Christian  en- 
durance? She  is  learning  patience  by  the  things 
which  she  suffers,  and  when  her  entire  being  is 
sanctified  by  the  incoming  of  a “better  hope,” 
what  a power  Chinese  women  will  become ! 

November  24. 

I spent  the  morning  with  Miss  Hughes  in  her 
school-work.  She  was  very  earnest  in  her  Bible 
lesson,  and  won  the  attention  of  her  children.  She 
asked,  among  other  questions,  “How  is  it  that 
God  sees  you  all  the  time?”  and  had  for  reply, 
“His  eye  is  never  tired,”  and,  “Because  he  is 
high  in  heaven.”  They  are  learning,  they  are 
learning.  After  awhile  many  of  these  will  be 
teachers  as  well  as  doers  of  the  word.  In  the 
afternoon  I went  with  Miss  Atkinson  to  visit  at  the 
homes  of  some  of  her  pupils.  We  found  no  floors 
— every  woman  whom  we  saw  lived  on  the  ground. 


140  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

I saw  no  clean  tables,  chairs,  nor  beds;  no  clean 
clothes  nor  sunlight.  The  rooms  were  filthy  and 
dark,  because  there  had  been  no  “cleaning  up” 
for  years,  and  no  windows  for  fear  evil  spirits 
would  gain  entrance.  Little  do  they  know  that 
their  hearts  are  already  the  dwelling-place  of  le- 
gions of  devils,  and  that  One  is  waiting  to  flood 
their  homesand  their  souls  with  sunshine.  Poor  and 
soiled-looking  as  our  several  hostesses  were,  every 
one  presented  us  with  the  conventional  cup  of  tea, 
and  several  with  an  addition  of  candy.  I found 
it  difficult  to  partake  of  these  hospitalities,  but  suc- 
ceeded in  satisfying  the  demands  to  a moderate 
degree.  Miss  Atkinson  could  talk  Chinese,  and 
so  prove  herself  satisfactory;  but  I had  no  such 
accomplishment  to  rely  upon,  and  accordingly  was 
compelled  to  take  tea  from  doubtful  china. 

November  26. 

This  afternoon  Professor  Bonnell  took  us  to  the 
cemetery,  a beautiful  spot,  where  only  foreigners 
are  buried.  We  wished  to  stand  once  again  by 
Miss  Rankin’s  grave.  We  expect  to  stand  with 
her  on  Mount  Zion ; and  with  us,  in  that  multitude 
whom  no  man  can  number,  will  be  many  of  these 
thousands  whom  I pass  from  day  to  day. 

November  27. 

I received  a few  days  ago  cards  in  Chinese  style 


Schools  and  Homes  in  Shanghai.  141 

— all  red — inviting  me  to  an  afternoon  feast  in  a 
native  home.  Miss  Hamilton,  Miss  Hughes,  and 
Miss  Muse  accepted  for  themselves  and  me ; and 
to-day,  when  the  hour  arrived,  we  started  in  jin- 
rikishas,  escorted  by  the  little  son  of  Mrs.  Psoh, 
who  met  us  at  the  entrance  of  the  court  that  leads 
to  her  house.  She  was  profuse  in  her  welcome, 
as  etiquette  demanded,  and  as  rapidly  as  her 
“salaams”  would  permit  she  escorted  us  to  the 
reception-room,  which  was  highly  adorned  with 
scarlet  hangings.  The  “most  straitest”  chairs 
awaited  us,  where  we  sat  upright,  without  leaning 
to  either  right  or  left,  for  three  hours,  the  period 
we  were  at  the  table.  There  were  fourteen 
courses,  besides  fruits,  conserves,  nuts,  tea,  cocoa, 
and  a hot  drink  made  of  grated  almonds.  We 
began  with  sharks’  fins,  which  were  eatable;  one 
course  was  doves’  eggs;  another  duck,  cured  as 
we  do  ham.  Champagne  was  handed  at  one  stage 
of  the  feast,  which  we  were  allowed  to  decline. 
Our  hostess  was  cheerful  and  dignified.  Several 
times  she  proposed,  according  to  Chinese  custom, 
to  have  towels  wrung  from  boiling  water  handed 
us  in  place  of  napkins,  but  yielded  to  the  advice 
of  a servant  who  had  had  foreign  training.  How- 
ever, at  the  close,  a shining  brass  basin  filled  with 
hot  water,  and  towels,  were  brought  in  for  our  use. 

7 7 O 


142 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

November  29. 

To-daj  I made  a call,  where  I saw  what  I think 
must  be  the  most  beautiful  embroideries  in  Shang- 
hai. These  people  have  the  perseverance,  energy, 
taste,  and  delicate  touch  to  become  the  most  skilled 
of  workmen  in  the  things  that  perish.  What  will 
they  be  when  they  take  hold  of  eternal  life ! 

It  is  raining  as  I write.  As  I look  from  my  win- 
dow I see  great  rain-coats  of  straw,  exactly  like 
the  pictures  in  my  little  geography  forty  years 
ago.  Indeed,  the  hats,  sedan-chairs,  the  immense 
hampers  suspended  from  bamboo-rods  resting 
on  the  coolies’  shoulders,  the  pagodas,  the  fans 
and  parasols,  are  the  patterns  used  in  the  school- 
books of  my  childhood.  Fashions  in  China  do 
not  change. 

The  chrysanthemums  ! The  half  had  not  been 
told.  We  have  nothing  of  their  size  in  America. 
Great  balls  of  gorgeous  colors,  they  are  almost  or 
quite  as  large  as  our  sunflower.  They  attain  to 
such  beauty  and  size  because  one  stalk  and  one 
chrysanthemum  only  are  allowed  to  grow  from  a 
root;  every  other  is  pinched  off. 

I went  to-day  inside  the  walled  city  of  Shanghai. 
This  Chinese  city  has  not  improved  by  the  great 
“ object-lesson  ” in  the  English  and  American  con- 
cessions. Clean  streets  and  good  order  have  not 


Schools  and  Homes  in  Shanghai.  143 

impressed  them.  Two  friends  living  there  came 
for  Miss  Haygood,  Miss  McClelland,  and  myself, 
and  actually  led  us  by  the  hand  through  the  streets 
of  the  old  city,  as  though  they  would  protect  us 
from  the  soiled  and  rough  men,  the  odors,  the 
sights,  the  tilth,  and  the  sounds.  My  conductor 
scarcely  let  go  of  me  after  we  entered  behind  the 
walls.  Probably  she  thought  that,  pressed  by  the 
crowds,  I might  be  lost  or  alarmed.  They  took 
us  to  the  shops  and  helped  us  to  make  a few  pur- 
chases. We  bought  beautifully  carved  peach- 
stones,  cherry-stones,  olive-stones — one  set  of  the 
eighteen  Buddhas  is  very  handsome ; a bamboo 
vase,  carvings  within  carvings,  is  exquisite.  Our 
shopping  over,  we  went  to  the  temples;  to  see  a 
juggler;  to  visit  a bride  just  arrived  in  her  hus- 
band’s house — her  long,  thick,  red  silk  veil  still 
concealing  her  face;  to  see  silk-weaving;  to  a 
paper  manufactory;  and  finally  ended  our  sight- 
seeing at  their  home  with  a cup  of  tea.  One  of 
these  friends  presented  me  with  two  or  three  hun- 
dred “cash”  strung  together  on  a red  cord,  form- 
ing a sword-shaped  weapon,  gayly  trimmed  with 
different  colored  silks.  She  is  a Christian  woman, 
and  therefore  I cannot  accuse  her  of  giving  it 
to  me  for  “good  luck.”  The  Chinese  consider 
this  device  as  bringing  good  luck  to  any  house- 


144  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

hold.  Our  friends  escorted  us  home,  making  them- 
selves altogether  agreeable.  We  had  brushed 
against  beggars  in  rags,  men  in  silks,  children  by 
the  score,  idlers,  busy  people,  coolies  with  their 
heavy  burdens,  the  clean  and  the  unclean.  All 
sorts  of  smells — burning  incense,  which  is  agree- 
able, and  Chinese  odors  which  are  execrable — met 
our  olfactories.  We  saw  smiles  and  tears,  the 
blue  heavens  and  the  filthiest  of  streets.  The 
mixture,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  made  a pleasant 
afternoon.  A Chinese  city  is  a wonder. 

Our  stay  draws  to  a close.  We  have  spent  two 
delightful  months.  The  weather  has  been  golden  ; 
our  friends  hospitable,  devoted.  We  expect  to  sail 
on  December  i,  in  the  “Thames,”  for  Hong- 
kong, Singapore,  the  Straits  Settlements,  Ceylon, 
and  Calcutta.  The  missionary  outlook  is  encour- 
aging. The  harvest  has  not  been  large,  but  the 
seed  are  springing  up,  and  very  soon  we  may  ex- 
pect thirty-fold,  and  after  awhile  sixty  and  a hun- 
dred-fold. In  Japan  God  is  giving  us  opportunity 
to-day  which,  if  not  accepted,  will  be  lost  to  us  and 
perhaps  lost  to  them  forever.  But  here  we  can 
better  afford  to  be  slower,  because  every  thing 
in  China  moves  slowly.  It  would  seem  that  fifty 
thousand  converts  in  little  less  than  a century  is 
a very  small  return  for  the  outlay  of  the  Christian 


Schools  and  Homes  in  Shanghai.  145 

world.  We  progress,  but  our  advance  is  slow; 
perhaps  because  we  have  not  done  our  best.  The 
five  loaves  and  two  fishes  fed  the  thousands,  and 
there  was  enough  and  to  spare ; but  our  Lord  added 
his  blessing  after  all  was  given  up.  We  must  give 
all  if  we  expect  the  heathen  world  to  be  gathered 
among  God’s  elect. 

I have  been  looking  over  a book  on  etiquette 
that  Miss  Atkinson  translated  for  me.  The  girls 
and  women  are  told  that  they  must  talk  but  little; 
they  must  retire  to  their  private  apartments  as  soon 
as  a visitor  to  the  men  of  the  family  arrives ; young 
wives  must  be  very  attentive  and  obedient  to  their 
mothers-in-law,  early  and  late  answering  their  calls, 
even  helping  them  to  dress  in  the  morning,  and 
otherwise  waiting  upon  them  with  cheerfulness; 
and  never  wanting  their  own  way,  nor  for  a mo- 
ment doubting  the  wisdom  of  those  who  are  at  the 
head  of  the  house.  Young  women  must  not  re- 
ceive presents  from  a brother-in-law,  nor  look 
behind  when  they  walk,  nor  shake  the  foot 
when  sitting;  and  they  must  always  rise  early 
enough  to  hear  the  chickens  crow.  The  devotion 
of  the  women  of  olden  time  is  recounted:  One 
gave  her  life  for  her  mother-in-law,  and  several 
died  for  and  made  many  sacrifices  for  their  hus- 
bands; one  poor  mother,  having  no  books  nor  pa- 
10 


146  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

per,  taught  her  son  to  read  and  write  by  making 
the  characters  with  her  fingers  in  the  mud.  The 
women  are  also  taught  that  beautiful  things — silks, 
satins,  embroideries,  gold,  and  silver — must  be  seen 
without  being  desired,  unless  there  is  money  to 
pay  for  them ; and  that  through  life  plain  clothes 
should  be  preferred.  No  young  wife  should  ask 
to  return  to  her  mother’s  house  till  she  has  been 
married  at  least  six  months,  and  not  then  if  her 
mother-in-law  is  not  willing.  Much  more  is  writ- 
ten in  this  book,  much  that  is  quite  good,  while 
much  would  not  be  of  value  to  us.  I trust  that 
you  will  give  devoted  attention  to  the  maxims  of 
an  old  Book  which  you  have  studied  ever  since 
you  learned  to  read.  An  rcvoir. 


LETTER  XIV. 


SUPERSTITIONS,  CRIMES,  AND  BEGGARY  OF  THE  CHINESE- 
SOME  OF  THEIR  FASHIONS  AND  PUNISHMENTS. 

Shanghai,  November,  1888. 

HE  Chinese,  like  all  nations  without  the  gos- 


pel, are  a prey  to  very  foolish  superstitions. 


They  have  days  lucky  and  unlucky.  The  break- 
ing of  a dish,  a trifling  slip  of  the  foot,  an  unfort- 
unate visit,  are  the  harbingers  of  family  difficulties. 
One  is  fortunate  or  jinfortunate  according  to  the 
star  under  which  he  was  born,  or  the  hour  of  his 
birth ; and  neither  burial  nor  marriage  can  take 
place  unless  the  geomancer  declares  it  propi- 
tious. I have  been  told  that  children  are  often 
destroyed  by  parents  because  of  coming  under 
unlucky  circumstances,  and  I have  seen  hundreds 
of  dead  left  unburied  because  the  soothsayer  dis- 
covered untoward  combinations  of  the  heavens  and 
the  earth. 

When  Dr.  A.  P.  Parker  built  his  clock-tower,  a 
family  in  the  neighborhood  was  bereaved.  On 
consultation  with  the  necromancer,  it  was  found 
that  the  Fung-Shui  (an  indefinable  something  that 
influences  the  fortunes  of  families,  communities, 
and  the  empire)  was  offended  by  the  tower. 


(147 ) 


148  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

Whether  in  the  water  or  in  the  air,  he  moves  in 
straight  lines,  and  to  be  compelled  to  turn  aside  by 
an  object  standing  in  his  way  is  exceedingly  irri- 
tating to  his  worshipful  dignity”  so  exasperating, 
indeed,  that  he  must  needs  wreak  his  vengeance 
on  the  neighborhood,  instead  of  blowing  away  the 
offending  cause  with  a puff  of  the  breath.  In  this 
instance  application  for  redress  was  made  to  the 
governor,  who  wisely  said  that  he  who  discovered 
the  evil  must  find  the  remedy.  The  soothsayer 
was  so  reasonable  as  to  counteract  the  disturbance 
without  pulling  down  the  clock.  He  erected  sev- 
eral high  poles  in  a line  with  the  suffering  house- 
hold and  Dr.  Parker’s  building,  which  to  this  day  re- 
main, and  continue  to  drive  off  the  evil  spirits  which 
were  provoked  to  serious  mischief  by  the  tower. 

When  in  Suchow  I tried  to  purchase  some  fans, 
and  in  one  of  the  shops  found  a clerk  who  was 
singularly  unwilling  to  show  me  his  goods.  The 
Chinese  are  usually  indifferent,  and  it  is  difficult  to 
have  a sight  of  the  contents  of  the  shelves.  One 
is  always  asked,  “What  color  do  you  want?  what 
design?  what  quality?”  and  any  other  questions 
that  can  be  devised.  Then,  only  the  color,  or  pat- 
tern, or  texture  asked  for  is  shown.  It  is  not  as 
with  the  American  dealer,  who  suggests  and  adds 
to  what  is  called  for.  After  the  customer  has 


Chinese  Superstitions.  149 

looked  at  the  article  designated,  if  he  wants  to  see 
other  shades  or  qualities  of  the  same  he  must  be 
explicit  in  his  description,  having  not  the  least 
proposition  from  the  dealer.  This  Suchow  pro- 
prietor exceeded  in  reserve  any  other  that  I had 
met.  Our  young  Chinese  “go-between”  could 
not  get  a fan  from  him.  At  length  he  said  we 
must  leave  the  shop  because  the  man  was  in  terror 
of  me.  I had  disturbed  the  Fung-Shui,  and  the 
proprietor  feared  the  establishment  would  be  de- 
stroyed if  I remained. 

Another  clock-tower  at  the  Arsenal,  near  Shang- 
hai, caused  great  commotion.  On  its  erection, 
the  board  of  Chinese  directors  were  notified  by  the 
priest  that  this  foreign  innovation  would  cause  the 
death  of  all  the  younger  brothers  of  the  members 
of  the  board.  Two  actually  died.  Consternation 
seized  the  families.  The  building  would  have 
been  razed  to  the  ground  had  it  not  been  found 
after  consultation  with  the  soothsayers  that  a 
shrine  for  worship  and  sacrifice,  built  in  the  tow- 
er, would  propitiate  the  avenger. 

Another  case  in  a town  not  far  distant:  A 
church  with  a steeple  and  gilt  rooster  on  the  sum- 
mit of  the  spire  was  erected.  The  wise  men  fore- 
told ruin  to  the  city.  Soon  after,  the  street  called 
“Centipede”  was  burned  from  end  to  end.  The 


150  Letters  f rom  the  Orient. 

remedy  of  the  priest  was  announced  as  follows: 
“ Roosters  eat  centipedes,  but  tigers  eat  roosters.” 
He  caused  a large  painting  of  a tiger  to  be  placed 
opposite  the  church.  In  a few  months  one  of  the 
walls  of  the  building  fell.  Of  course  the  tiger 
did  it. 

Our  Southern  Presbyterian  friends  at  Hang- 
chow some  years  ago  owned  property  most  ad- 
mirably located.  But  the  Fung-Shui  became  of- 
fended, and  nothing  less  than  total  destruction 
would  appease  his  wrath.  Not  one  stone  was  left 
upon  another,  and  the  fair  buildings  and  grove  be- 
came a ruin.  The  citizens  behaved  with  great  lib- 
erality on  the  occasion.  They  presented  another 
lot  and  paid  for  new  buildings,  though  in  a flat  sit- 
uation by  no  means  as  desirable  as  the  first. 

Mrs.  Williamson,  in  her  “ Old  Highways  in  Chi- 
na,” tells  how  the  entire  side  of  a temple  was  taken 
down  to  let  the  gods  at  the  altar  see  the  dryness  of 
the  soil,  and  feel  the  heat  of  the  noonday  sun, 
during  a long  drought  when  famine  was  appre- 
hended. I do  not  know  whether  this  touch  of  the 
summer  sun  melted  the  hearts  of  the  gods  suffi- 
ciently to  give  the  refreshing  shower. 

While  we  were  in  Suchow  a woman  entered 
Dr.  Park’s  hospital  in  search  of  the  spirit  of  her 
child.  She  had  taken  him  there  some  months  be- 


Chinese  Superstitions.  151 

fore,  and  since  then  he  had  been  sick.  She  knew 
some  demon  had  been  offended,  and  that  the  spirit 
of  the  boy  was  detained  in  those  four  walls.  She 
examined  every  corner,  closet,  shelf,  and  room, 
calling  on  the  soul  to  return.  Another  took  her 
baby  to  Dr.  Philips,  and  as  a precautionary  meas- 
ure called  aloud  on  the  soul  to  remain  where  he 
belonged. 

Beggars  and  thieves  are  regularly  organized. 
They  have  a king,  treasurer,  and  other  officers.  A 
fixed  sum  is  paid  into  the  guild  by  each  applicant 
for  membership,  sometimes  as  much  as  thirty  dol- 
lars, every  member  having  his  share  of  the  profits. 
A peculiar  fraternity!  I watched  a beggar  a few 
days  ago.  He  seated  himself  on  the  ground  in 
front  of  Dr.  Park’s  gate.  He  wore  several  bands 
of  white — badges  of  mourning — and  looked  to  be 
about  twenty-five  years  of  age.  He  cried  at  the 
top  of  his  voice,  the  tears  streaming  down  his  face: 
“My  father  is  dead,  my  mother  is  dead,  I am  a 
poor  orphan  ; help  me,  help  me  ! ” Thus  he  wailed 
one  entire  afternoon,  telling  over  and  over,  again 
and  again,  the  same  story  with  a look  of  the  great- 
est anguish.  I wondered  if  he  was  a member  of 
the  guild ! 

The  Chinaman  has  a curious  plan  of  vengeance. 
He  kills  himself  to  spite  his  enemy — a reversal  of 


152 


Letters  f rom  the  Orient. 

the  American  order.  No  injury  to  a Celestial  is  so 
great  as  when  the  man  he  hates  takes  his  own  life: 
for  in  the  ghostly  relation  he  may  distress  him  in 
his  family,  or  in  his  business,  or  in  -propria  persona 
1 11  the  end  of  life.  Nothing  can  be  worse  than  to 
have  the  hatred  of  the  dead.  Also  great  ill  luck 
comes  to  the  house  where  a visitor  dies.  Hence 
if  the  dearest  friend  is  taken  ill  from  home,  the 
host  immediately  arranges  for  his  return  to  his  own 
family,  and  the  inns  are  unwilling  to  receive  him 
on  the  way,  The  beggar  who  is  spurned  becomes 
a power  to  be  dreaded  to  any  household  on  whose 
premises  he  may  happen  to  die. 

A coffin  is  a most  acceptable  present  to  the  liv- 
ing. John  Chinaman  becomes  so  accustomed  to 
the  sealed  casket  containing  the  remains  of  some 
member  of  his  family,  which  cannot  be  laid  away 
till  the  geomancer  speaks,  that  he  wants  to  have 
the  care  of  his  own  coffin.  It  is  a gift  to  be  cher- 
ished with  pride  and  tenderness.  He  is  content  to 
know  that  this  provision  is  beyond  a peradventure. 

Ancestral  worship  stands  between  China  and  the 
gospel  as  nothing  else  does.  This  worship  of  the 
dead  of  generations  back  is  Satan’s  strongest  hold. 
At  regular  periods  the  offerings  are  made  at  the 
graves  and  ancestral  tablets,  by  rich  and  poor,  by 
the  male  representative  of  every  family  in  China. 


Chinese  Superstitions.  153 

The  Emperor  on  his  throne  is  not  exempt.  He 
must  make  sacrifices  of  the  most  costly  silks,  of 
wines  and  edibles,  before  the  tablets  of  all  his  pred- 
ecessors. Otherwise  those  dead  rulers  would  com- 
bine to  send  disasters  and  plagues  upon  the  nation. 
All  court  officials  and  every  oldest  son  in  every 
family,  down  to  the  poorest  coolie  in  the  land, 
must  worship  the  dead  fathers  and  mothers  of  the 
generations  that  preceded.  Whatever  he  may 
deny  himself,  he  may  not  deny  his  ancestors  any 
thing  requisite  for  a comfortable  living  in  the  spirit- 
land.  Rice,  clothing,  lights,  servants,  money,  and 
houses  are  as  needful  there  as  here : notwithstand- 
ing poverty,  all  these  things  and  much  more  must 
be  furnished.  Fire  is  the  mode  of  conveyance. 
Burned  here,  the  required  goods  arrive  in  the 
world  beyond  ready  for  use.  The  son  may  have 
been  wayward,  worthless,  disobedient — a vaga- 
bond. What  the  living  parents  could  not  accom- 
plish the  dead  exact  and  effect  without  contro- 
versy. He  would  not  dare  refuse  honor  to  the  spirit 
that  has  become  so  powerful  an  agent  for  evil  or 
good.  Men  of  the  largest  wealth,  influence,  and 
business  obligations,  down  to  the  menial  in  the 
kitchen,  must  be  excused  from  all  contracts  until 
these  rites  are  performed,  at  stated  periods,  for  all 
the  years  of  his  life.  The  desire  of  husbands 


154  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

and  wives  for  sons  grows  out  of  this  superstition. 
Failing  in  this,  an  adopted  son  may  assume  the 
duty.  A daughter  cannot  perform  this  sacred  act. 
Perhaps  the  uselessness  of  the  girls  in  ancestral 
worship  led  to  female  infanticide.  They  were  un- 
welcome because  they  could  not  lighten  the  bur- 
dens of  the  dead.  To  be  rid  of  them  was  right- 
eous, while  the  wife  with  tears  and  groans  and  cries 
besought  the  goddess  of  mercy  for  her  boy,  which 
could  be  her  hope  both  here  and  hereafter.  Be- 
sides, the  little  daughters  are  so  soon  claimed  by 
their  mothers-in-law  that  they  are  really  of  “ no 
use ” to  their  parents. 

In  addition  to  ancestral  offerings,  those  spirits 
must  be  propitiated  who  left  no  son  or  male  repre- 
sentative, or  those  who  died  unknown,  or  in  for- 
eign lands,  or  beggars,  or  the  drowned,  or  any  oth- 
ers whose  bodies  were  not  recovered.  For  these 
the  generous  contribute,  so  that  none  on  the  other 
shore  shall  be  unprovided  for,  and  thus  be  tempt- 
ed to  cause  tribulation  in  the  world  they  left  be- 
hind. It  is  not  so  much  the  charitable  intent  as 
the  horrible  fear  of  vengeance  that  induces  the 
opening  of  the  stranger’s  purse.  I saw  paper 
horses,  boats,  houses,  jinrikishas,  servants,  and 
other  things,  carried  along  the  streets  on  the  way 
to  be  burned  at  the  ancestral  tablets.  Is  it  not 


(155) 


PLACE  OF  ANCESTRAL  WORSHIP. 


Chinese  Superstitions.  155 

strange  that  not  one  soul  from  the  other  side  has 
even  been  of  so  gentle  a disposition  as  to  excuse 
his  son  from  this  heavy  tax?  They  exact  the 
“pound  of  flesh”  to  the  utmost,  or  else  they  are 
unduly  slow  in  finding  a way  of  communication. 
Even  in  Tartarus  they  might  find  out  how  to  spare 
those  who  come  after  these  centuries  of  long- 
drawn-out  anxiety  and  agony.  If  vengeance  can 
be  had,  why  not  tenderness?  Heathenism  does 
not  love — heathenism  hates ! Jesus  crucified  is 
the  only  power  that  can  exalt.  All  praise  for  the 
promise:  “I,  if  I be  lifted  up,  will  draw  all  men 
unto  me.”  Does  it  not  mean  China?  The  reve- 
lation of  our  Lord  to  this  world  of  sin  did  not  find 
China  in  more  open  rebellion  than  other  peoples. 
There  have  been  nations  saved  by  repentance  and 
faith  toward  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ.  Why  not  this 
land  of  black  darkness?  Forty  or  fifty  thousand 
of  these  four  hundred  millions  bear  the  name 
of  Jesus.  Shall  we  “despise  the  day  of  small 
things?”  Not  Jerusalem  only  was  it  that  “killed 
the  prophets  and  stoned  them  that  were  sent,”  and 
not  Jerusalem  only  would  Jesus  gather  to  himself 
“as  a hen  gathers  her  brood  under  her  wings.” 
There  is  a very  large  boat  population.  Hun- 
dreds of  thousands,  from  birth  to  the  grave,  know 
no  other  home.  I have  watched  many  of  these 


156  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

families.  The  little  ones  at  play  on  deck  are  tied 
to  some  stationary  object,  and  thus  secured  from 
danger  of  falling  off.  Even  the  family  cat  and  chick- 
ens are  comfortably  circumscribed  in  the  same  way. 
These  fleets  of  house-boats  are  little  worlds  hav- 
ing their  regulations  and  employments,  their  po- 
lice and  municipal  laws;  and  though  crowded  as 
London  houses,  each  family  keeps  to  its  own  quar- 
ters, and  one  community  does  not  interfere  with 
another.  These  many  towns  in  the  canals  and 
small  rivers  do  not  rival  beautiful  Venice,  but  in 
their  way  are  quite  as  interesting. 

We  are  in  the  height  of  the  persimmon  season: 
a delicious  fruit,  in  size  like  the  orange,  and  color 
like  a ripe  tomato.  Also  the  pommelo  is  a favor- 
ite fruit.  I think  only  a Japanese  or  John  China- 
man knows  how  to  prepare  them  for  the  table: 
they  are  enveloped  in  a bitter  fiber  which  ruins  the 
taste  unless  carefully  removed.  The  uninitiated 
seem  unable  to  separate  the  bad  from  the  good. 
The  Chinese  make  a delightful  jelly  of  the  haw, 
and  indeed  many  of  their  culinary  productions  are 
very  nice.  It  is  improbable,  however,  that  Ameri- 
cans would  learn  to  like  eggs  that  have  been  pre- 
served ten,  twenty,  fifty  years.  To-day’s  egg  is 
to  our  taste,  while  one  that  has  gone  through  many 
a decade  is  the  delicacy  that  a Celestial  seeks. 


157 


Chinese  Superstitions. 

Passing  a house  a few  days  ago  I witnessed  a 
quarrel  in  progress  between  a man  and  woman. 
Their  loud  voices,  many  words,  and  vigorous 
pounding  drew  a crowd.  At  last  she  grabbed  his 
cue  and  soon  got  the  better  of  him,  such  an  indig- 
nity bringing  him  to  terms.  I doubt  if  the  women 
in  China  often  engage  in  a street  brawl.  They 
are  taught  submission  from  early  childhood,  and 
have  very  little  controversy  with  their  husbands:  I 
have  heard  that  a mild  type  of  domestic  satisfaction 
exists.  Betrothals  take  place  at  so  early  an  age  that 
the  little  husband  and  wife  do  not  remember  when 
they  did  not  belong  to  each  other,  nor  do  they  have 
opportunity  to  know  whether  compatibility  is  a 
thing  possible.  A betrothal  is  as  binding  as  a 
marriage.  During  the  time  that  the  matter  is  un- 
der consideration,  while  the  horoscopes  are  not  yet 
cast,  a trifling  accident  in  the  kitchen  or  china- 
closet  of  either  family  will  break  off  negotiations. 
But  after  a favorable  decision  is  made  nothing  can 
prevent  the  consummation.  The  loss  of  property, 
or  an  incurable  malady,  or  a disgusting  deformity 
would  not  be  permitted  to  break  off  the  marriage. 
Unless  the  little  girl  be  taken  by  her  prospective 
mother-in-law  to  be  brought  up  under  her  own 
eye,  the  bridegroom  and  his  promised  wife  never 
see  each  other  till  the  wedding-day,  when  he  sends 


158  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

the  gorgeous  red  bridal  chair  with  a retinue  of 
servants  to  bring  her  to  her  new  home.  She  is 
closely  veiled  in  scarlet  silk  or  woolen  cloth,  which 
is  not  removed  till  the  first  meal  under  her  hus- 
band’s roof.  Of  course  there  are  grievous  dis- 
appointments. The  young  wife  may  have  no 
beauty  of  face,  or  be  she  ever  so  pretty  her  spouse 
may  not  fancy  her.  It  is  of  greater  importance, 
perhaps,  that  the  mother-in-law  be  pleased,  for  the 
future  probably  depends  more  on  her  than  on  him. 
If  she  becomes  the  mother  of  sons,  she  will  be  a 
person  of  consequence;  otherwise  she  will  be  at 
the  mercy  of  her  new  relatives,  who  may  or  may 
not  have  agreeable  dispositions.  As  in  Japan,  she 
may  be  divorced  if  she  is  disobedient  to  her  hus- 
band’s mother,  or  is  seen  often  on  the  street,  or  talks 
much.  Strange  it  is  that  the  young  master  may 
put  her  away  at  pleasure  after  marriage,  but  must 
under  all  circumstances  hold  himself  bound  during 
the  time  of  betrothal ! Perhaps  she  was  bought ; 
possibly  the  two  mothers  exchanged  daughters, 
each  having  sons  ; or  may  be  money  actually  passed ; 
at  any  rate,  value  having  been  exchanged , his  moth- 
er thinks  they  must  have  the  equivalent — viz.,  the 
faithful  attention  demanded  of  a daughter-in-law. 
Should  the  expected  bridegroom  die  before  the 
marriage,  the  little  girl  is  considered  a widow, 


(159 


BRIDAL  PROCESSION. 


Fashions  and  Punishments.  159 

and  becomes  a member  of  his  family,  who  must 
henceforth  care  for  her  as  though  she  had  been 
married.  Sometimes  this  ceremony  is  performed 
with  the  spirit  of  the  departed;  and  should  she 
vow  life-time  fidelity  to  him,  refusing  another  mar- 
riage, she  is  held  in  high  esteem.  I saw  many 
substantial  stone  arches  on  the  highway,  erected 
in  token  of  great  distinction  to  widows  thus  devot- 
ing themselves  to  the  memory  of  the  betrothed 
whom  perhaps  they  never  saw.  She  may  even 
commit  suicide,  and  thus  be  counted  worthy  of  all 
honor  as  the  most  virtuous  of  women. 

The  deformed  feet  keep  Chinese  ladies  more  or 
less  confined  at  home.  Those  of  the  poorer  class 
cannot  afford  to  be  secluded,  for  they  must  earn 
their  pittance  toward  the  support  of  the  family. 
Those  who  need  not  labor  are  rarely  seen  upon 
the  streets.  Freedom  of  social  life  is  unknown.  I 
suppose  that  unrestricted  friendliness  among  wom- 
en is  impossible:  if  not  impossible,  an  intimacy  is 
an  impropriety,  and  an  outing  of  rare  occurrence. 
The  dress  of  the  wealthy  on  special  occasions  is 
of  superb  silks,  embroideries,  and  velvets;  their 
tiny  shoes  are  of  choice  needle- work,  and  I am  told 
that  they  indulge  in  an  excess  of  jewelry,  especial- 
ly to  ornament  their  glossy  black  hair.  I see  in 
the  shops  very  expensive  beads  and  pins  of  jade, 


160  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

of  gold,  and  silver;  and  on  the  streets  elaborate 
imitations  of  the  same.  They  wear  nothing  like 
our  bonnets  and  hats.  The  top  of  the  head  is  un- 
covered. They  sometimes  have  across  the  fore- 
head a stiff  black  silk  band  which  takes  the  place 
of  a bonnet.  They  consider  our  head-gear  an  im- 
itation of  masculine  fashion. 

Young  men  do  not  let  their  beard  grow.  When 
a man  is  forty  years  old,  if  he  have  sons  he  need 
not  shave  his  mustache.  One  of  our  native  pastors 
told  me  that  he  was  very  proud  when  that  auspi- 
cious day  dawned,  and  lost  no  time  in  thus  show- 
ing that  he  had  arrived  at  so  respectable  a period 
of  life.  The  aged  are  esteemed  for  their  years’ 
sake.  Hence  it  is  very  polite  to  ask  a person  in 
middle  life  his  or  her  age.  As  youth  speaks  for 
itself,  it  is  probable  that  the  young  are  not  ques- 
tioned on  this  subject.  My  age  has  been  inquired 
into  very  often.  I was  greatly  surprised  when 
these  particulars  were  asked  of  me  the  first  time, 
but  I soon  became  accustomed  to  the  courteous 
query,  and  learned  to  return  the  obliging  atten- 
tion of  the  natives  by  asking  with  equal  complai- 
sance concerning  their  “most  honorable  age.” 

The  Chinaman  greets  his  friends  by  shaking  his 
own  hand.  They  meet  with  the  most  cordial  saluta- 
tion of  hand-shaking,  but  each  man  shakes  his  own 


Fashions  and  Punishments.  161 

and  not  his  neighbor’s  hand.  Their  code  of  eti- 
quette, as  with  the  Japanese,  is  very  elaborate. 
While  this  may  be  tiresome  to  an  earnest  worker, 
I doubt  not  it  is  true  that  one  cannot  gain  entrance 
into  the  most  refined  homes  unless  some  attention 
is  paid  to  their  forms.  The  poor  are  reached  by 
sympathy.  True,  the  word  of  God  can  take  hold 
of  the  heart  with  or  without  human  aid.  But  also 
our  Lord  makes  use  of  us,  of  our  peculiarities,  our 
talents,  our  failures,  the  words  we  speak,  our  omis- 
sions and,  commissions,  our  prayers,  our  faith,  our 
money,  in  convincing  our  neighbors  and  those  afar 
off  of  the  truth  of  the  religion  of  the  Lord  Jesus 
Christ.  It  may  be  that  our  missionaries  will  have 
the  opportunity  to  carry  the  good  tidings  of  God’s 
love  to  idolatrous  households  by  attention  to  some 
little  detail  of  etiquette  that  will  first  attract  good- 
will and  afterward  gain  genuine  affection.  If 
“tall  oaks  from  little  acorns  grow,”  and  “bits  in 
the  horse’s  mouth”  enable  us  to  guide  the  animal, 
and  a “very  small  helm  ” turns  about  a ship  “ driv- 
en of  fierce  winds,”  and  a “great  matter”  is  kin- 
dled by  a “little  fire,”  may  not  families  in  China 
be  rescued  by  heeding  some  innocent  prejudice? 

The  Chinese  are  cruel  in  their  punishments. 
Many  illegal  tortures  are  permitted.  Those  which 
are  legal  are  often  revolting.  The  thumb-screw 
11 


1G2  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

of  the  Inquisition,  though  in  another  form  and  by 
another  name,  is  in  use;  also  a similar  compress 
for  the  ankle.  Among  those  in  use,  but  unauthor- 
ized, are  striking  the  lips  until  lacerated,  burning 
the  lingers,  chaining  the  hands  under  the  knees 
and  thus  bending  the  body  double,  nailing  the 
hands  to  boards,  kneeling  on  broken  glass,  and 
many  more  devices  that  it  required  considerable 
ingenuity  to  invent.  A common  punishment  which 
is  seen  upon  the  streets  often  is  the  “cangue,”  a 
wooden  frame  worn  around  the  neck,  too  broad 
for  the  hands  to  reach  the  mouth,  so  that  the  crimi- 
nal is  dependent  for  his  meals  upon  the  kind  offices 
of  others.  John  eats,  holding  the  bowl  of  rice 
close  to  his  mouth  and  shoveling  in  the  food  with 
chopsticks.  I suppose  some  good-natured  person 
in  passing  helps  the  poor  fellow  bearing  the  yoke 
of  the  cangue  to  shove  his  rice  into  his  mouth. 

There  are  two  modes  of  beheading — decapita- 
tion by  a single  blow,  and  decapitation  by  piece- 
meal. Criminals  are  sometimes  left  to  die  by 
starvation.  I heard  of  a cruel  torture  “long  drawn 
out,”  which  I suppose  was  illegal.  The  offender 
is  placed  in  a wire  gauze  frame  fitting  tightly  to 
the  person — so  tight  that  the  flesh  protrudes 
through  the  wire  until  the  blood  oozes  from  hun- 
dreds of  pores.  I heard  of  a little  girl  whose  mis- 


(163) 


IN  T1IE  CANGUE. 


Fashions  and  Punishments.  163 

tress  pinched  her  flesh  from  time  to  time  with  red- 
hot  pinchers.  You  have  read  of  the  cruel  use  of 
the  bamboo  in  the  punishment  of  criminals.  It  is 
said  that  prisoners  under  sentence  of  death  some- 
times meet  their  doom  by  being  securely  bound 
down  over  the  bamboo-shoot,  which  grows  so  rap- 
idly that  it  passes  through  his  body  in  a day ! 

How  can  one  who  believes  in  the  love  of  Jesus 
and  desires  to  live  in  constant  realization  of  the 
same,  and  who  seeks  to  grow  up  into  him  as  the 
'most  blessed  condition  attainable  on  earth — how 
can  such  refuse  to  help  give  the  gospel  to  China 
and  Japan?  He  who  made  the  universe  com- 
mands us  to  “go  into  all  the  world;”  and  yet 
some , knowing  well  that  they  cannot  make  a blade 
of  grass,  nor  “provide  for  the  raven  his  food,”  nor 
send  rain  ‘ ‘ upop  the  just  or  the  unjust,  ’ ’ nor  ‘ ‘ bind 
the  sweet  influences  of  the  Pleiades,”  undertake 
to  say  how  far  God’s  grace  shall  extend  toward 
the  workmanship  of  his  own  hands. 

Time  moves  apace.  These  interesting  days  are 
fast  passing.  To  say  that  I have  been  impressed 
by  our  mission  work  and  its  needs  is  a very  mild 
expression  of  my  sensations.  Our  opportunities 
and  the  failure  of  the  Church  to  meet  her  obliga- 
tions are  almost  overwhelming.  May  God  stir  us 
until  we  do  with  our  might  what  he  has  placed  in 


164 


betters  from  the  Orient. 

x our  charge  ! The  responsibility  is  ours,  for  to  us 
have  come  calls  upon  calls  to  undertake  new  work. 
Besides,  our  missionaries  need  our  sympathy  and 
prayers.  They  give  themselves  and  their  all  to 
these  people,  leaning  upon  God.  No  arm  of  flesh 
is  near  from  which  they  may  hope  for  aid.  Their 
people  have  not  learned  to  love.  A few  who  have 
come  to  know  eternal  life  are  learning  to  love; 
and  after  awhile,  when  many  are  brought  to  the 
knowledge  of  the  grace  of  the  Lord  Jesus,  our 
missionaries  will  have  near  them  Christian  friends* 
on  whom  to  rely.  Now , they  have  but  their  homes 
and  their  work.  Outside,  there  are  none  to  re- 
joice when  they  rejoice,  or  weep  when  they  weep. 
The  poorest  circuit  in  America  has  within  its 
bounds  those  who  sympathize  with  the  minister  in 
joy  and  sorrow:  if  death  invades  his  family,  there 
are  hands  to  help  and  words  of  affection  to  soothe. 
But  in  a heathen  land,  in  the  hour  of  anguish,  un- 
less a missionary  brother  be  near,  no  aid  nor  love 
from  beyond  his  own  four  walls  is  offered.  At 
happy  seasons  of  the  year — Christmas  and  birth- 
days— no  outside  token  of  remembrance  comes ; 
on  the  contrary,  our  brethren  give  all  and  receive 
naught.  Their  members  are  poor,  and  must  be 
helped.  If  there  is  a wedding  or  a funeral,  they 
must  aid  in  providing  the  outfit  for  the  bridal  and  for 


Fashions  and  Punishments.  1G5 

the  burial  of  the  dead.  As  the  preacher  tells  of 
the  cross  of  Christ  he  must  rescue  man}^  a poor 
family  from  famine  and  disease.  Let  the  Church- 
members  in  America  forbear  criticism  and  give 
their  sympathy  to  their  representatives  across  the 
Pacific. 

When  thoughtful  men  tell  us  that  the  best  oppor- 
tunities for  saving  China  are  to  be  found  in  the  inte- 
rior, it  is  not  meant  that  the  work  in  the  treaty-ports 
should  be  relinquished.  Perhaps  as  Christians  grow 
from  within  outward — first  the  heart,  then  the  life  is 
changed — so  it  may  be  that  this  heathen  land  must 
be  begotten  from  its  great  centers,  ere  we  shall  see 
the  fringes  of  the  empire  becoming  the  “Bride  of 
the  Lamb.”  But  by  no  means  can  our  workers 
be  withdrawn  from  the  coast  cities.  In  these  lat- 
ter are  found  the  heathen  who,  in  addition  to  the 
idolatrous  practices  of  centuries,  are  besotted  with 
the  sins  of  Western  life.  The  workers  from  the 
various  Missionary  Boards  of  the  world  must  stand 
a solid  phalanx  in  Shanghai,  Hong-kong,  and 
other  sea-ports,  striving  against  all  sin,  whether 
native  or  foreign.  If  they  do  not  hold  the  borders , 
there  will  soon  be  no  centers  of  Christian  work.  I 
hold  that  while  the  one  field  must  be  cultivated  the 
other  cannot  be  left  to  run  to  weeds.  Let  every 
hill-top  and  hamlet  of  Japan,  and  all  these  mill- 


166  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

ions  and  millions  of  China,  feel  the  power  of  the 
death  and  resurrection  of  the  Lord  Jesus. 

The  markets  are  full  of  fish,  bamboo-roots,  lotus- 
bulbs,  sharks’  fins,  ducks’  tongues,  sea-slugs,  per- 
simmons, and  very  fine  vegetables.  Those  who  can 
afford  to  buy  do  so;  but  I rather  enjoy  walking 
through  to  see  what  there  is  and  watch  the  buyers. 
The  migratory  kitchen  is  found  in  the  market- 
house  as  well  as  on  the  streets.  Foreigners  can- 
not market  successfully,  because  “the  tricks  which 
are  vain”  are  “peculiar”  to  this  trade.  The  cook 
does  the  marketing ; and  while  our  friends  and  all 
foreigners  know  that  they  pay  his  commission,  yet 
the  cost  is  not  equal  to  what  it  would  be  if  they 
undertook  the  business. 

I add  a list  of  boys’  names — not  such  as  are 
familiar  to  you : True  Blessing,  Everlasting  Life, 
Piece  of  Happiness,  Two  Precious,  Sixth  Pre- 
cious, Next  Precious,  Gold  Penny,  Little  Brother, 
Heaven’s  Gift,  Seventh  Sister,  Happy  Nine.  The 
last  was  born  on  the  ninth  day  of  the  ninth  month ; 
Sixth  Precious  was  the  sixth  son;  and  Seventh 
Sister  was  so  named  because,  being  a feeble  infant, 
it  was  thought  the  evil  spirit  would  pass  him  by,  if 
he  could  be  made  to  think  the  baby  a girl.  The 
ruse  succeeded — the  demon  was  stupid  enough  to 
believe  in  the  name. 


Fashions  and  Punishments.  167 

The  girls  comb  their  hair  according  to  the  fash- 
ion of  centuries  gone.  Besides  shaving  in  circles 
and  quadrangles,  they  brush  the  entire  suit  of  hair 
to  one  side,  coiling  it  immediately  over  the  ear; 
or  dividing  it  in  two,  they  have  a coil  over  each 
ear.  When  these  twists  are  ornamented  with  the 
fine  large  chrysanthemums,  the  face  is  broader 
than  long. 

In  Suchow  I wondered  why  the  little  children  on 
the  street  so  often  shut  their  eyes,  holding  on  to 
their  friends.  I specially  remember  a handsome 
boy  who,  carried  astride  his  father’s  shoulder, 
looked  at  us,  then  closed  his  eyes  quickly,  hiding 
his  face  on  his  father’s  head;  after  awhile  he 
peeped  and  shut  his  eyes,  which  was  repeated 
several  times.  We  walked  behind  him  for  a mile, 
the  little  fellow  first  examining  the  foreign  lady 
with  light  hair  and  eyes,  and  then,  as  if  fright- 
ened, hiding  his  face.  Upon  inquiry,  I learned 
that  children  are  taught  that  the  “Jesus  people” 
take  all  the  eyes  they  can  steal  to  make  a medicine 
which  affects  the  native  mind  so  that  the  new  re- 
ligion is  forced  upon  a man  without  his  consent. 
They  cannot  believe  that  one  would  voluntarily 
renounce  Confucius  and  Buddha  for  the  “new 
doctrine” — there  must  be  some  witchcraft  in  the 
proceedings. 


168  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

The  Prime-minister  of  China  is  a man  of  intel- 
lect and  broadening  views.  It  is  to  be  expected 
that  he  will  elevate  the  State.  Let  us  pray  that  the 
Holy  Ghost  may  take  hold  of  him,  and  enlighten 
his  understanding  so  that  he  may  with  wisdom 
direct  the  great  questions  which  must  soon  be 
settled.  In  all  China  there  are  but  two  hundred 
miles  of  railroads.  The  superstitions  of  the  people 
have  hindered,  their  fear  of  the  Fung-Shui  having 
prevailed  against  all  attempts  to  improve  the  mode 
of  travel.  But  a better  day  is  coming.  Not  many 
years  hence  railroads  will  traverse  the  whole  em- 
pire, and  that  will  mean  a missionary  in  every 
community.  There  are  not  a dozen  newspapers 
in  China.  After  awhile  the  press  will  become  a 
power;  and  while  infidels  and  politicians  will  have 
access  to  the  columns  of  all  publications,  so  also 
will  the  heralds  of  the  cross  be  able  to  speak  with 
confidence  and  boldness  of  the  reason  for  the  hope 
that  is  in  them. 

Will  you  not  keep  this  great  empire  in  your 
thoughts,  and  in  the  years  to  come  let  your  influ- 
ence be  directed  toward  the  salvation  of  the  na- 
tions now  in  darkness?  God’s  gift  is  eternal  life. 
Is  it  not  of  value?  Can  you  compute  its  worth  to 
you?  Would  it  not  be  of  equal  value  to  China’s 
millions?  Will  not  you  and  your  friends  and  your 


Fashions  and  Punishments.  169 

friends’  friends,  as  you  think  of  your  blessedness 
in  His  kingdom  on  earth  and  the  glory  which  will 
be  revealed,  also  help  to  tell  the  story  to  those 
who  are  so  far  off  that  only  the  Holy  Ghost  can 
reach  them — remembering  that  the  Holy  Spirit 
chooses  “earthen  vessels”  to  carry  the  priceless 
treasure?  Are  not  you  your  brother’s  keeper? 


LETTER  XV, 


THE  VOYAGE  TO  INDIA— SIGHTS  ON  SEA  AND  LAND. 


E left  Shanghai  late  in  the  afternoon  of  No- 


vember 30,  our  friends  going  to  the  steam- 
launch  to  bid  us  bon  -voyage . They  are  dear  to  us. 
God  bless  them  and  cause  his  face  to  shine  upon 
them ! If  the  shining  of  his  face  be  upon  their 
work,  it  will  not  be  long  before  the}'  are  a thousand 
times  as  many  as  they  now  number.  China  counts 
her  hundreds  of  millions,  and  surely  America  will 
desire  Christianity  to  count  tens  of  thousands  of 
Chinese  converts  in  the  near  future.  Do  you  say 
amen  ? The  Lord  grant  that  you  may  pray  with- 
out ceasing,  “ Thy  kingdom  come,”  so  long  as  you 
live!  If  you  should  live  “threescore  years  and 
ten,”  how  many  “golden  vials  full  of  incense, 
which  are  the  prayers  of  saints,”  will  be  scored  in 
the  Eternal  Mind  as  part  of  your  guerdon ! 

Notwithstanding  the  cold  was  very  severe  the 
afternoon  we  left  Shanghai,  Professor  Bonnell, 
Mr.  Burke,  and  Mr.  Arthur  Allen  went  with  us  to 
the  “Thames,”  which  was  anchored  eighteen  or 
twenty  miles  from  the  city.  At  10  p.m.  they  left 


Straits  of  Malacca,  December  12,  iSSS. 


(170) 


Voyage  to  India.  171 

us,  and  by  daylight  next  morning  we  were  at  sea, 
with  our  faces  turned  toward  the  south.  The  bit- 
ing cold  continued  for  thirty  hours,  but  by  the 
time  we  reached  Hong-kong,  almost  at  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  the  Chinese  coast,  we  realized 
that  December  could  be  as  pleasant  as  May.  The 
soft  air,  green  grass,  luxuriant  trees,  and  the  gay- 
colored  flowers  quite  banished  the  wintery  blast 
from  our  thoughts. 

Hong-kong  is  a beautiful  island,  belonging  to 
the  English,  and  but  a short  distance  from  the  main- 
land. The  buildings,  public  and  private,  are  mass- 
ive and  fine-looking.  There  are  first-class  roads 
and  gardens  handsomely  laid  off  and  cultivated. 
An  immense  amount  of  money  has  been  invested. 
The  city  lies  along  the  base  and  sides  of  steep, 
high  hills,  up  which  walks  and  carriage-drives  lead 
to  the  summit.  We  climbed  the  hills,  went  into 
the  shops,  and  walked  in  the  shade  of  the  avenues 
of  trees.  We  took  jinrikishas  to  the  “ Happy  Val- 
ley,” the  English  cemetery — a beautiful  cove  in  the 
mountain-side,  full  of  exquisite  tropical  trees  and 
plants.  It  does  indeed  look  like  a resting-place. 
Next  to  it  is  a Mohammedan  cemetery,  of  which 
I can  only  say  it  is  a flace. 

Chairs  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  coolies  are 
more  in  use  in  Hong-kong  than  jinrikishas,  owing 


172  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

to  the  very  steep  hills.  The  carriers  trot  along  at 
an  even  pace,  except  when  the  road  approaches  a 
perpendicular.  Some  of  the  private  chairs  are 
very  handsome,  the  bearers  in  livery.  We  were 
there  but  two  days  while  our  steamer  was  loading 
for  England,  whither  she  was  bound. 

We  did  not  go  to  Canton,  which  is  near.  I 
should  like  to  have  seen  the  embroidered  crapes  on 
the  spot  where  they  are  wrought,  and  for  memory 
of  Morrison,  who  in  the  early  part  of  this  century 
was  hidden  away  for  twenty  years  in  Canton — hid- 
den because,  had  he,  a Christian  believer  and 
teacher,  been  found  his  life  would  have  been  for- 
feited. Here  in  the  darkness  he  worked  all  those 
years,  giving  to  those  who  have  succeeded  him  the 
Chinese  Dictionary.  All  missionaries  who  have 
come  after  him  have  built  on  his  foundation,  nor 
could  they  have  built  without  it. 

The  heat  increased  as  we  steamed  southward, 
but  the  sea  was  smooth  and  the  skies  blue.  While 
seated  at  dinner  the  day  before  arriving  at  Singa- 
pore we  were  startled  by  the  cry,  “Man  over- 
board!” In  a moment  the  saloon  was  emptied, 
and  all  crowded  to  the  taffrail.  A life-boat  was 
sent  out  and  the  steamer  put  back.  The  poor  fel- 
low, a Malay  sailor,  was  not  to  be  seen,  though  his 
screams  were  heard.  He  went  to  the  bottom. 


173 


Voyage  to  India. 

Singapore  is  but  a little  over  a degree  from  the 
equator,  so  that  the  heat  is  intense  the  year  round. 
The  singing  of  birds  never  ceases,  frost  is  not 
known,  and  perennial  green  crowns  every  hill-top 
and  valley. 

We  went  ashore  and  drove  in  a “gharry”  to 
the  Botanical  Gardens.  The  road  lay  for  three 
miles  through  groves  of  palms  and  the  seats  of  the 
foreign  gentry  residing  on  the  island.  The  Gar- 
dens are  very  beautiful.  Rolling  land,  a heavy 
greensward  shorn  till  it  looked  as  smooth  and  as 
soft  as  velvet,  lakes,  parterres  of  flowers  of  the 
richest  hues,  palms  of  all  sorts,  the  cocoa-nut,  date, 
pine-apple,  betel-nut,  banana,  fan,  sago,  cabbage, 
umbrella,  bread-fruit,  and  other  species  with  bo- 
tanical names  that  I do  not  recall — drives  and 
walks  all  in  perfect  order — made  a picture  to  be 
remembered.  Added  to  the  lovely  sight,  we 
had  a pleasant  breeze  which  tempered  the  heat 
of  a tropical  sun.  We  strolled  about  for  some 
two  hours,  and  then  returned  to  the  town,  where 
we  bought  from  a peripatetic  commissariat  some 
sliced  pine-apples  which  were  more  delicious  than 
any  I had  ever  eaten . They  are  totally  different  from 
those  we  eat  in  America,  a thousand  miles  or  more 
from  where  they  grow.  I shall  never  want  them 
unless  I get  them  directly  from  their  native  groves. 


174  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

The  palm-tree,  in  its  hundred  or  more  varieties, 
affords  the  natives  in  the  Straits  settlements,  and 
in  Ceylon,  India,  and  other  tropical  lands,  almost 
all  they  need.  They  eat  the  fruit,  weave  a cloth 
from  its  fiber,  from  the  bark  and  wood  make  all 
manner  of  household  utensils,  manufacture  an  oil 
which  can  be  used  for  lighting  and  culinary  pur- 
poses, build  their  huts  and  bungalows  under  its 
shade,  and  of  one  of  the  varieties  paper  is  made. 
Manifold  are  the  uses  to  which  palm-trees  are  put. 
They  are  seventy,  eighty,  one  hundred  feet  high: 
the  trunk  is  bare  almost  to  the  crown,  where  grow 
the  long  leaves  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  in  length, 
falling  over  in  rich  profusion — a tuft  of  plumes. 
The  natives  walk  up  the  long  trunks  with  ease.  I 
watched  them  with  interest  as  they  set  their  feet 
upon  the  trunk,  clasping  it  with  their  hands  above, 
and  thus  ascended  without  touching  the  tree  at 
other  points  of  their  bodies. 

Both  on  land  and  on  our  steamer  in  this  latitude 
everybody  wears  the  lightest  clothing — the  gentle- 
men white  duck  or  flannel;  ladies  are  dressed  in 
muslins.  My  one  linen  dress  is  in  constant  use;  I 
scarcely  spare  it  while  it  is  in  the  laundryman’s 
hands.  I suppose  it  will  be  in  constant  demand 
until  we  arrive  at  Calcutta.  The  Malay  mostly 
wears  but  a waist-cloth  besides  his  turban,  or  a 


n~  5) 


CLIMBING  THE  PALM-TREE. 


175 


Voyage  to  India. 

long  shirt,  his  body  bare  to  the  waist — the  heat  the 
year  through  being  so  intense  that  I suppose  since 
the  world  began  he  has  worn  very  little  clothing. 
The  favorite  color  seems  to  be  bright  red,  which 
contrasts  well  with  the  rich  brown  skin.  The  Ma- 
lay women  substitute  jewelry  for  our  profusion 
of  dress:  bracelets  on  the  arm  and  ankle,  rings 
in  the  ear  and  nose,  and  on  the  fingers  and  toes, 
seem  very  satisfying  to  them ; a single  garment  be- 
sides, and  they  are  dressed. 

The  shells  for  sale  in  Singapore  are  very  beau- 
tiful. Boat-loads  of  them,  all  of  exquisite  tints, 
and  of  many  sizes  and  shapes,  lay  along-side  the 
wharves.  Your  father  loves  to  handle  them — they 
are  a pleasure  to  him  as  roses  are  to  you. 

We  will  sail  to-day;  and  I am  glad,  for  the  tem- 
perature at  sea  is  reduced. 

December  14. 

We  are  in  the  Straits,  and  in  a swell.  There  is 
a storm  off  to  the  south  which  disturbs  our  waters. 
The  heat  is  great.  Every  one  who  has  a white 
suit  wears  it.  The  “punkas”  are  going  at 
breakfast,  tiffin,  four  o’clock  tea,  and  dinner.  I 
doubt  if  we  could  eat  without  them,  unless  the 
meals  were  served  on  deck;  but  that  would  hardly 
be  possible.  On  all  the  steamers,  and  in  South- 
ern China,  in  the  Malay  Peninsula,  in  Ceylon  and 


176  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

India,  the  punka  is  a necessity  as  well  as  a luxury. 
Labor  is  so  cheap  that  foreigners  of  very  moderate 
means  often  employ  a boy  whose  work  is  simply 
to  keep  in  motion  these  punkas,  or  fans,  which  are 
suspended  from  the  ceiling.  Men  of  wealth  and 
invalids  have  them  in  use  almost  every  night  in  the 
year,  and  in  many  of  the  English  churches  they 
are  to  be  found.  I should  think  them  very  re- 
freshing to  those  who  preach  with  their  might, 
when  the  thermometer  is  up  in  the  nineties. 

To-morrow  we  expect  to  see  Ceylon,  the  land 
of  “spicy  breezes.”  We  were  on  deck  early  this 
morning,  and  witnessed  a beautiful  sunrise.  I like 
to  be  out  early  before  the  steamer  is  awake — of 
course  I refer  to  the  passengers;  the  sailors  are 
always  at  work. 

We  are  a little  farther  north,  Ceylon  being  about 
five  degrees  from  the  equator:  the  difference  in 
the  temperature  corresponds,  and  the  heat  is  so 
slightly  less  that  one  might  think  the  “Thames” 
back  at  Singapore.  In  a few  hours  the  beautiful 
island  will  be  in  sight. 

December  17. 

We  landed  to-day  at  Columbo,  and  found  quite  a 
familiar  look  about  the  city.  The  hotels  and  many 
other  buildings  are  similar  to  our  own,  while  on  the 
streets  there  are  scores  of  people  of  our  complex- 


Voyage  to  India.  177 

ion  and  dress.  The  Imperial  Hotel  where  we  are 
lodged  is  crowded  with  Americans  and  English. 
I have  just  returned  from  the  shops,  having  visited 
them  with  some  ladies  to  look  at  the  jewels  that  are 
found  there.  Sapphires,  rubies,  and  pearls  are  to 
be  seen  in  large  numbers.  One  of  the  dealers 
claimed  to  have  the  largest  and  most  superb  cat’s- 
eye  in  the  world — he  asks  thousands  for  it.  I en- 
joyed the  sparkling  gems,  but  gave  myself  no  anx- 
iety about  their  genuineness.  It  is  said  that  the 
unskilled  should  not  purchase. 

December  18. 

We  drove  out  to  the  Cinnamon  Garden,  where 
hundreds  of  cinnamon-trees  grow.  The  Museum 
was  interesting  for  its  collection  of  animals  and  of 
Ceylonese  work.  There  were  sharks  of  tremen- 
dous size,  which  I would  not  have  approached  had 
they  been  alive  ; and  constrictors  so  long  and  large 
that  I fear  to  give  the  figures,  lest  the  huge  propor- 
tions should  be  mistakes  of  my  memory;  and  oth- 
er snakes,  very  poisonous,  but  a foot  in  length  and 
not  thicker  than  my  finger.  There  were  birds  of 
all  sizes  and  colors,  and  the  most  exquisite  collec- 
tion of  butterflies  to  be  found.  We  also  saw  a fish 
with  the  head  of  a horse,  exactly  the  thing  we  used 
to  see  in  our  childhood’s  picture-books.  It  was 
about  ten  or  twelve  inches  long.  We  had  not  be- 
12 


1 < 8 Letters  from  the  Orient. 

lieved  in  the  existence  of  this  animal  until  we  saw 
this  specimen. 

Off  to  one  side  of  the  Garden  is  the  residence 
of  Arabi  Pasha,  the  Egyptian  exile,  whom  the  En- 
glish hold  in  “durance  vile”  in  this  lovely  spot. 
He  has  every  thing  his  eye  may  desire,  and  yet — a 
prisoner  of  state — what  he  most  wants  is  denied 
him.  During  this  drive  we  saw  many  ant-hills  four 
and  five  feet  high,  which  were  quite  a curiosity  to 
us.  And  of  no  less  interest  was  the  Highland 
regiment  which  we  passed,  in  its  unique  and  pret- 
ty uniform.  The  bagpipes  were  in  full  blast, 
and  I can  understand  how  “The  Campbells  are 
Coming”  might  under  certain  circumstances  be 
very  inspiriting. 

December  21. 

We  have  been  up  in  the  mountains.  It  was  a 
pleasant  change,  but  not  so  great  as  you  might 
think.  It  was  warm  enough  for  hundreds  of  callas 
to  bloom  in  the  open  air.  The  prettiest  ferns  of 
the  globe  are  there ; the  maiden-hair  is  a dream  of 
beauty,  for  a poet’s  pen  to  describe.  The  tree- 
fern,  which  grows  to  be  quite  large,  is  to  be  seen 
in  all  these  regions  from  Singapore  to  Southern 
India.  During  the  few  days’  trip  we  saw  but  one 
coffee-plantation.  The  crop  having  failed  in  the 
last  few  years,  tea  has  been  substituted  with  con- 


A KOAD  IN  CEYLON. 


(179) 


Voyage  to  India.  179 

siderable  success.  The  planters  claim  that  the 
Ceylon  tea  has  a more  delicious  flavor  than  any 
other. 

We  spent  a day  in  the  wonderful  Royal  Gar- 
dens at  Peradinieja,  where  are  all  the  tropical 
plants  of  the  world.  I saw  growing  cloves,  all- 
spice, nutmegs,  the  various  palms,  bread-fruits, 
banyan,  sandal-wood,  rubber,  camphor,  the  deadly 
upas,  mahogany,  cinchona,  all  of  which  are  large 
trees;  besides  pepper,  sensitive  plants,  orchids,  tea, 
coffee,  and  many  more  trees,  vines,  and  bushes 
than  I can  remember.  Bamboos  grow  here  in  great 
beauty  and  to  considerable  height,  as  in  China  and 
Japan.  In  truth,  almost  every  thing  that  pertains 
to  tropical  life  may  be  seen  on  this  island.  It 
offers  the  finest  scenery  I have  found  since  we 
left  green-clad  Japan  (which,  however,  is  hardly 
tropical),  and  I have  heard  that  it  is  considered 
the  most  beautiful  in  the  world.  The  other  day 
the  railroad  took  us  up  through  the  mountains, 
where  a very  wild  region  opened  before  us.  The 
palm-trees  grow  everywhere,  even  on  the  high 
hills,  while  the  valleys  are  richly  carpeted  in  grass 
or  cultivated  in  rice. 

At  Kandy  our  window  looked  out  upon  a long, 
smooth  lawn  finely  set  in  grass  and  bordered  all 
around  with  beautiful  trees.  At  the  other  end 


180  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

from  our  quarters  was  an  immensely  rich  Bud- 
dhist temple,  which  was  endowed  with  large  tracts 
of  valuable  land  by  the  Dutch  when  they  took  pos- 
session of  Ceylon;  and  when  they  ceded  it  to 
the  English  it  was  stipulated  that  all  these  native 
rights  and  possessions  should  be  respected.  The 
temple  contains  a vast  number  of  rubies  and 
sapphires,  and  much  beautiful  ivory  and  silver 
work.  To  the  right  is  an  artificial  lake,  and  be- 
yond a mountain-range  makes  a background  for 
the  whole. 

Adam’s  Peak,  a sacred  mountain,  is  in  the  dis- 
tance. The  Mohammedans  claim  that  the  foot- 
prints of  Adam  are  to  be  seen  on  the  summit. 
Heretical  Americans  are  more  interested  in  the 
gems  found  at  the  base  and  on  the  sides  of  the 
mountain. 

As  elsewhere,  the  coffee-plantations  here  are 
failing.  An  evil  disease  has  fallen  on  Java,  Cey- 
lon, and  “they  say”  on  Brazil  and  other  coffee- 
growing countries.  If  it  goes  round  the  world 
the  coffee-drinkers  will  be  forced  into  self-denial, 
of  which  let  advantage  be  taken  for  missionary 
operations ! 

Here,  as  at  Singapore  and  Penang,  the  natives 
are  very  easy  in  the  matter  of  dress.  The  children 
wander  around  arrayed  in  a silver  cord  about  the 


Voyage  to  India.  181 

loins,  with  perhaps  the  addition  of  a bracelet  and 
anklet.  The  men  wear  their  hair  long  and  held 
back  by  beautiful  tortoise-shell  combs;  except  the 
Mohammedans,  who  are  distinguished  by  their 
hats — tall  truncated  cones,  woven  of  many-colored 
straw.  The  Mohammedans  are  making  great  ad- 
vance in  all  these  regions.  They  send  mission- 
aries— Arabs — to  all  the  settlements  in  the  Straits 
and  to  the  islands,  and  make  thousands  of  con- 
verts. Their  allowance  of  polygamy  is  a force. 
An  Arab  teacher — perhaps  a fine,  stately-looking 
fellow — will  settle  in  a community,  open  a school, 
and  soon  propose  to  a half-dozen  families  to  marry 
a girl  from  each.  They  readily  accede,  and  all 
become  Mohammedans.  Perhaps  in  a few  years 
the  contest  will  be  between  them  and  Christianity; 
and  a tough  contest  it  will  be,  for  they  are  vigor- 
ous and  plucky. 

We  sit  by  open  windows  enjoying  the  music  of 
the  birds  and  the  beautiful  landscape.  We  re- 
member that  sin  changed  Eden  into  a wilderness, 
so  that  no  man  knows  the  place.  This  fair  land 
is  in  darkness,  its  beauty  lost  to  those  who  do  not 
know  the  God  of  nature.  Here,  where  the  palm 
grows  and  where  the  skies  are  so  bright,  we  meet 
with  sin  at  every  turn.  Perhaps  because  “man 
is  vile”  my  thoughts  turn  to  the  “pure  river  of 


182  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

water  of  life,  clear  as  crystal,  proceeding  out  of 
the  throne  of  God  and  of  the  Lamb,”  on  whose 
banks  grows  “the  tree  of  life,”  whose  leaves  are 
for  “ the  healing  of  the  nations.”  Some  day  we 
shall  stand  there,  and  I want  Ceylon  and  all  the 
Orient  to  join  in  “the  new  song.”  Sometimes  I 
wonder  how  you  and  I could  enjoy  “the  new 
heavens  and  the  new  earth”  if  these  Eastern  peo- 
ple are  left  out.  But  we  know  “ there  shall  be 
no  more  curse.”  Here,  where  “ every  prospect 
pleases,”  we  see  the  effect  of  the  curse;  but  there 
no  such  sight  will  meet  our  eyes.  We  “ shall  see 
His  face,”  and  “His  name  shall  be  in  our  fore- 
heads,” and  “His  servants  shall  serve  Him,”  and 
“they  shall  reign  forever  and  ever.”  All  this 
cannot  be  for  America  and  Europe  only.  John 
wrote  from  the  East — he  saw  the  heavens  opened, 
and  heard  them  sing  from  “out  of  every  kindred 
and  tongue  and  people  and  nation.”  If  he  thought 
of  one  race  more  than  another,  it  must  have  been 
those  who  were  nearest  to  him — so  I feel  that  I 
have  the  right  to  expect  to  sing  the  “new  song” 
with  Japan,  China,  the  Malay  Peninsula,  Ceylon, 
India,  Africa,  and  the  islands  of  the  sea.  They 
will  be  there  ! We  must  bear  a part  in  their  com- 
ing. They  cannot  hear  unless  they  be  told;  me 
must  send  a messenger  if  we  cannot  bear  the 


• Voyage  to  India.  183 

message.  God  forbid  that  your  ears  be  heavy  and 
your  hearts  slow ! Hear  his  voice  and  give  him 
your  best  work. 

Buddhism  is  the  antagonist  of  Christianity  in 
Ceylon.  As  in  Japan  and  China,  our  gospel  con- 
fronts a persistent  and  subtle  enemy,  who  must  be 
vanquished  by  the  God  of  nations.  No  less  here 
than  there  are  needed  men  and  women  chosen  of 
the  Lord,  and  of  whom  the  heathen  “shall  take 
knowledge  that  they  have  been  with  Jesus;  ” such 
men  and  women  as  shall  be  recognized  as  follow- 
ers of  One  who  must  be  “King  of  kings  and  Lord 
of  lords.” 

December  25. 

The  beauty  of  the  day  tempted  the  two  Mrs. 
B.’s  and  myself  to  a drive.  We  had  Christmas  in 
our  hearts,  though  in  the  midst  of  paganism  ; peace 
and  good-will  was  our  portion,  though  the  many 
had  not  heard  why  the  day  is  our  festival  of  festi- 
vals. We  had  not  driven  far  when  we  found  our- 
selves in  a strange  procession : hundreds  of  Cey- 
lonese carrying  upon  their  heads  immense  loads  of 
bananas,  pine-apples,  oranges,  mangoes,  flowers, 
cake;  men  on  stilts,  dancing-girls  in  wagons,  arti- 
sans of  many  kinds  followed  in  the  train.  We  did 
not  understand,  but  we  enjoyed.  On  we  went  till 
arriving  at  a gate-way  trimmed  with  flowers  we 


184  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

were  invited  to  enter,  and  presenting  our  cards 
were  ushered  into  the  presence  of  a gentleman,  a 
Ceylonese,  who  appeared  to  be  prepared  for  some 
great  occasion.  We  apologized  for  our  unexpect- 
ed appearance,  but  his  hospitality  was  more  than 
equal  to  the  demand.  He  would  not  allow  us  to 
leave  without  a glimpse  of  the  annual  custom  of  a 
feast  in  his  honor.  He  was  a Christian,  hence 
chose  Christmas  as  a time  for  a great  jollification, 
in  which  his  fellow-townsmen  delighted  to  do  him 
honor;  and  from  appearances  I judged  him  to 
be  a philanthropist,  and  these  hundreds  of  men 
to  have  received  at  his  hands  continued  favors. 
He  introduced  us  to  his  wife  and  her  friends, 
all  of  whom  spoke  English  and  were  exceedingly 
agreeable.  We  stood  upon  the  veranda  while  the 
procession  filed  through  the  spacious  grounds,  ev- 
ery man  stopping  to  exchange  greetings  with  our 
host.  Rose-water  was  sprinkled  over  us  as  they 
passed,  and  rose-leaves  thrown  in  upon  the  portico 
in  profusion,  garlands  of  flowers  by  the  dozen  were 
passed  into  our  hands,  and  many  servants  were 
required  to  receive  the  offerings  of  fruit.  After 
awhile  began  the  entertainment  by  the  musicians, 
swordsmen,  jugglers,  dancers,  tambourine-boys, 
and  others,  each  desiring  above  all  else  to  give 
pleasure  to  their  host  and  his  friends.  We  made 


Voyage  to  India.  185 

several  attempts  to  leave  before  he  would  consent. 
Finally  our  adieus  were  made. 

When  we  returned  to  the  hotel  I was  greatly  en- 
tertained by  a juggler  and  snake-charmer.  For 
the  second  time  I witnessed  the  trick  of  the  man- 
go-tree. The  juggler  was  scantily  clad.  He  wore 
but  one  garment,  and  that  with  sleeves  to  the  el- 
bows, and  without  pockets.  There  was  no  place 
for  accessories — no  table,  nor  closet,  nor  trap-door 
— nor  any  person  near  who  could  have  assisted  him 
to  mature  his  designs.  A small  boy,  attired  in  the 
same  light  way,  was  his  only  attendant.  The  two 
were  in  the  open  space  on  the  veranda,  the  specta- 
tors at  a respectable  distance  from  his  snakes.  He 
carried  three  small  baskets,  two  of  which  held  the 
reptiles  and  the  third  his  few  pieces  of  machinery, 
all  of  which  he  laid  out  upon  the  floor.  The  earth 
for  growing  his  mango  was  tied  up  in  a handker- 
chief in  the  third  basket.  He  placed  it  before  us, 
put  the  bulb  in  position,  watered  it,  and  covered  it 
with  a soiled,  ragged  cloth;  then  began  his  in- 
cantations and  mummery.  After  a minute  or  two 
he  removed  the  cloth,  and  the  mango  had  grown 
an  inch  or  more.  Again  he  covered  it  and  went 
through  the  same  cabalistic  passes,  and  again  the 
cloth  was  raised,  and  the  plant  was  a foot  tall. 
The  mystic  gyrations  were  repeated,  when  lo ! the 


186 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

young  mango  had  grown  a yard  in  height.  Of  the 
fifty  or  more  persons  looking  on,  none  detected  his 
manipulations.  His  snakes  were  hooded  cobras, 
the  most  venomous  of  the  serpent  kind.  All  the 
jugglers  handle  them  without  fear,  although  their 
fangs  dart  to  the  right  and  left  in  very  threatening 
style.  It  was  surprising  how  he  packed  so  many 
and  so  large  snakes  in  the  two  baskets.  He  did 
not  seem  to  consider  their  need  of  space,  but 
crowded  them  in  pell-mell,  till  I doubt  if  any 
one  of  them  knew  his  own  tail  from  that  of  his 
neighbor.  j 

We  went  to  the  Wesleyan  Church  on  Sunday, 
and  saw  the  tablet  to  the  memory  of  Dr.  Coke, 
who  died  so  many  years  ago  on  his  way  to  Ceylon. 
The  tablet  was  erected  by  the  missionaries  with 
him,  who  survived  to  labor  a short  time,  though 
we  noticed  by  the  inscriptions  that  some  soon  fol- 
lowed him.  Most  of  the  foreign  workers  here  die 
early — very  few  live  to  old  age.  We  arrived  at 
the  church  rather  early,  and  strolled  on  for  a half- 
hour.  On  our  return  we  found  that  a crowd  had 
gathered  under  a tree  to  hear  a native  Christian 
preach.  He  spoke  with  earnestness,  and  we  found 
by  the  singing  that  several  who  stood  with  him 
were  of  like  mind  with  himself.  There  is  response 
in  Ceylon  to  the  word  of  the  Lord. 


Voyage  to  India. 


187 


December  26. 

The  temperature  is  somewhat  lower  to-day.  The 
nights  have  been  delightful  during  the  week,  but 
at  midday  the  sun  has  been  too  hot  for  a walk  to 
be  agreeable  or  safe.  The  streets  are  full  of  peo- 
ple from  three  o’clock  till  midnight  enjoying  the 
sea-breeze  and  the  sight-seeing.  The  stars  shine 
out  with  wonderful  clearness,  many  coming  into 
view  that  we  do  not  see  in  our  latitude.  Ceylon  is 
too  far  above  the  equator  for  the  Southern  Cross 
to  be  seen ; at  Singapore  it  was  visible  about 
3 a.m.  You  will  be  surprised  to  hear  that  I did 
not  rise  for  the  sight,  and  indeed  I already  regret 
it.  Early  to-day  we  walked  along  the  beach  for  a 
half  mile  to  the  south  of  Columbo,  and  watched 
the  ocean  stretching  out  before  us  inimitably — 
nothing  between  us  and  the  South  Pole — the 
breakers  beat  and  broke  upon  the  sands,  keeping 
up  the  measured  roar  that  never,  never  ceases. 
Long  as  I have  been  on  the  waters,  I have  not  yet 
wearied  of  the  sight  and  sound.  The  spot  was 
tempting.  Your  father  would  have  liked  a plunge, 
but  was  restrained  by  the  preemption  rights  of  the 
sharks,  who  admit  no  intruder  into  their  domain, 
save  with  the  understanding  of  an  end  to  the  pres- 
ent conditions. 


LETTER  XVI. 


HINDOO  WOMEN— THEIR  ZENANA  LIFE— PRISONERS  FROM 
THE  CRADLE  TO  THE  GRAVE— NOTABLE  SIGHTS. 

Benares,  India,  January  4,  1S89. 

E sailed  December  26  from  Columbo  in  the 


steamer  “Nepaul.”  Fair  winds  brought  us 
to  Calcutta  by  the  last  day  of  the  year.  On  the 
way  we  had  a vision  which  recalled  that  of  the 
Apocalypse.  The  Bay  of  Bengal  shone  under  the 
rays  of  a burning  sun,  and  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach  was  without  a ripple.  From  horizon  to  ho- 
rizon the  broad  expanse  of  quiet  sea  reflected  the 
blazing  light  as  one  flaming  surface — great  belts  of 
fire  flashed  into  the  crystal  waters.  We  saw  John’s 
vision — “the  sea  of  glass  mingled  with  fire.” 
Such  an  outlook  from  Patmos  must  have  inspired 
his  description  of  the  heavenly  glory. 

Calcutta  was  so  crowded  that  it  was  impossible 
to  find  comfortable  quarters.  Two  gentlemen  of 
our  party  were  reduced  to  a dining-table  for  their 
sleeping,  and  four  of  our  ladies  divided  one  bed 
between  them.  I spent  a morning  in  visiting  ze- 
nanas, by  the  courtesy  of  the  wife  of  Rev.  Bishop 
Thoburn,  of  the  M.  E.  Church.  But  for  Mrs. 
Thoburn’s  kindness,  I would  not  have  had  this 


(188) 


HSi)) 


ESP I. A NADE,  CA LCUTTA 


Hindoo  Women. 


189 


glimpse  into  the  life  of  Hindoo  women,  for  the  rea- 
son that  we  have  no  work  in  India.  No  man,  ex- 
cept the  husband,  has  access  to  a woman’s  apart- 
ments, so  that  your  father  was  not  with  me. 

The  life  of  Hindoo  women  is  well  known.  From 
the  cradle  to  the  grave  they  are  prisoners,  first  in 
the  house  of  the  mother,  and  later  in  the  house  of 
the  husband  or  mother-in-law.  They  are  abso- 
lutely without  outlook  and  have  nothing  in  reserve, 
until  the  Sun  of  righteousness  shines  into  their 
souls;  and  while  the  blessed  light  may  not  open 
the  outside  world  to  their  earthly  vision,  they  will 
have  the  liberty  (^f  God’s  dear  children.  They 
marry  at  eleven,  twelve,  and  thirteen  years  of  age, 
and  henceforth  know  no  law  but  the  word  of  the 
mother-in-law,  the  husbands  troubling  themselves 
very  little  about  the  home  management.  Sons  take 
their  wives  home  to  their  mothers,  so  that  in  a fam- 
ily of  many  sons  the  household  grows  apace — a 
half-dozen,  a dozen  families  under  one  roof.  Often 
several  generations  dwell  together  in  one  zenana. 

These  wives,  young  and  old,  could  hardly  lead 
harmonious  lives,  for  no  change  of  air  or  scene 
relieves  their  nerves.  They  cannot  read,  so  that 
their  minds  are  without  that  sort  of  employment. 
They  are  kept  in  the  strictest  seclusion,  never, 
never  being  allowed  to  walk  upon  the  street.  They 


190  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

know  nothing  of  the  busy  world  outside,  and  never 

see  the  hills  or  the  blue  skies  except  as  they  look 

up  from  their  narrow  inside  courts.  They  have  no 

ideas  of  any  thing  but  their  circumscribed  limits, 

save  as  their  husbands  may  tell  them  a bit  of  news. 

An  occasional  visit  to  the  mother’s  house  may  be 

permitted  if  the  mother-in-law  happens  to  be  good- 

tempered — not  otherwise ; and  this  must  be  done 

in  a tightly  closed  “palankeen”  (a  long,  narrow 

sort  of  ambulance  without  windows,  carried  by 

servants),  from  which  the  poor  little  woman  can 

neither  see  nor  be  seen.  The  palankeen  is  taken 

to  the  inner  court,  so  there  is  no  chance  for  a peep 

* 

at  the  city.  If  there  is  a reason  for  a railroad  jour- 
ney, a thick  veil  is  worn  as  they  step  from  the  ve- 
hicle to  the  coach — those  for  high-caste  women  hav- 
ing windows  of  very  dark  glass,  or  the  shutters  so 
arranged  that  there  can  be  neither  looking  out  nor 
looking  in.  I tried  very  hard  on  one  of  the  trains 
to  see  inside  of  the  compartment  where  there  were 
some  high-caste  ladies,  but  failed  entirely. 

The  Hindoo  woman  has  no  sewing,  for  her  only 
garment  is  a scarf  five  or  six  yards  long  by  one 
wide,  which  she  winds  about  her  quite  gracefully. 
Day  after  day  those  of  one  household  gossip  to- 
gether over  their  poor  little  affairs  which  never 
change.  They  have  very  little  joy,  even  in  mother- 


;i9i) 


THE  CLOSED  PALANKEEN. 


Hindoo  Women. 


191 


hood,  which  with  us  is  so  sweet  a tie  to  life.  True, 
to  be  a mother  is  the  only  thing  to  which  a Hin- 
doo wife  looks  forward;  but  she  has  no  dainty 
garments  to  stitch,  bulging  pleasure  to  her  very 
fingers — no  training  of  infant  mind  and  heart,  the 
growth  of  which  interests  our  mothers.  The  mere 
possession  of  sons  is  her  one  ambition.  A noble 
manhood  does  not  enter  into  her  calculations. 

A few  young  wives — comparatively  few — send 
for  the  missionary  ladies  to  teach  them  to  read, 
write,  and  embroider.  It  was  a glad  day  when 
an  English  woman  of  rank  made  the  first  attempt 
to  enter  a zenana,  and  succeeded.  Henceforth  a 
brighter  future  was  within  reach  of  these  igno- 
rant, aimless  Hindoos.  The  desire  to  be  taught  is 
growing,  and  before  another  century  closes,  by 
the  help  of  the  Lord  of  hosts,  there  will  be  a rev- 
olution in  the  homes  of  India. 

I enjoyed  my  visit  to  some  of  these  women  very 
much.  One  young  wife  had  finished  a pair  of  slip- 
pers for  her  husband,  and  because  he  had  been  so 
gracious  as  to  admire  them  she  was  as  happy  as  a 
child  with  a new  toy;  the  penmanship  of  another 
was  commended  by  the  teacher,  which  brought  a 
happy  smile  to  the  young  face;  another  was  great- 
ly pleased  to  have  her  baby  noticed,  and  another 
quite  interested  in  a new  crochet  stitch. 


192  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

They  showed  me  some  very  elegant  jewelry: 
ear-rings  of  all  sizes  and  designs,  among  them  a 
handsome  gold  envelope  for  the  ear,  studded  with 
precious  stones;  necklaces,  bracelets,  and  anklets; 
rings  for  fingers  and  toes  and  nose;  all  manner  of 
silver  and  gold  devices  that  a woman  could  desire. 
I suppose  that  to  have  a new  piece  of  jewelry  is 
the  highest  aspiration  of  thousands  of  these  poor 
creatures. 

The  terrible  condition  of  the  widows  of  India  is 
so  well  known  that  you  are  familiar  with  the  story 
of  their  misery.  We  saw  what  is  said  to  be  the 
place  where  the  last  suttee  was  performed.  En- 
gland has  held  India  through  a sea  of  blood.  It 
was  perhaps  God’s  way  to  bring  her  to  the  truth. 
The  English  Government  abolished  this  rite;  but 
the  pitiful  situation  of  thousands  of  child-widows 
has  led  many  of  them  to  prefer  death  upon  the 
funeral-pyre  of  their  husbands.  Married  in  child- 
hood without  consent  of  their  own,  they  are  often 
widows  before  arriving  at  mature  years ; and 
henceforth  life  is  one  long  bitterness.  There  are 
said  to  be  over  five  million  widowed  children  in 
India,  their  condition  being  abject  slavery  in  the 
families  where  they  are  left.  No  comforts  are 
allowed  them,  no  tenderness  is  exhibited  toward 
them,  nor  is  association  with  other  inmates  of 


Notable  Sights  in  India.  103 

the  house  permitted.  They  become  menials,  or 
rather  outcasts,  within  four  walls.  Their  wretch- 
edness is  equaled  only  in  the  regions  where  hope 
is  an  eternal  stranger.  England  has  done  much 
to  ameliorate  some  of  these  evils,  but  the  gospel 
only  is  the  power  which  is  to  overcome  the  super- 
stitions, ignorance,  and  cruelties  of  India. 

Calcutta  covers  an  immense  area  of  ground, 
and  has  a great  number  of  fine  residences  and 
Government  buildings.  It  is  more  expensively 
built  than  any  of  the  Eastern  cities  that  I have  seen, 
unless  it  be  Hong-kong,  and  perhaps  that  is  not 
an  exception.  The  Botanical  Gardens,  a little 
way  out  of  the  city,  are  said  to  be  the  finest  in  the 
world.  Perhaps  so;  but  to  the  botanist,  not  to 
the  unlearned  like  myself.  The  great  banyan-tree 
is  wonderful.  It  covers  a space  of  more  than 
eight  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  circumference,  has 
three  hundred  and  thirty-two  aerial  roots,  and  the 
main  trunk  is  forty-two  feet  around.  It  is  said  to  be 
next  to  the  largest  in  the  world — the  largest  being 
that  at  Bombay,  under  which  seven  thousand  of  Sir 
Arthur  Wellington’s  troops  were  once  camped. 

We  visited  the  Zoological  Gardens,  where  is 
the  finest  collection  of  animals  I have  seen : not- 
ably, the  two  largest  tigers — splendid  brutes,  one 
of  them  a “man-eater” — a black  leopard,  lions, 
13 


194  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

large  ostriches  with  long  plumes,  besides  numbers 
of  monkeys  and  gorillas,  and  birds  of  beautiful 
plumage. 

We  also  went  to  one  of  the  burning-ghats,  or  the 
place  where  the  dead  are  burned.  China  is  one 
universal  cemetery.  The  living  millions  tread  upon 
the  grave-mounds  of  the  dead  millions  every  day. 
It  is  not  so  in  India.  Except  those  of  the  Moham- 
medans and  English,  there  are  no  graves:  the  dead 
are  burned.  There  were  two  burning  bodies  at  the 
time  of  our  visit.  It  was  not  a pleasant  sight; 
and  to  me,  the  Parsee  mode  is  equally  painful. 
They  build  great  towers,  open  at  the  top;  the 
remains  of  the  dead  are  placed  within,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  the  vultures  dispose  of  all  that  was 
mortal. 

After  all,  what  matters  it,  if  at  the  resurrection 
we  rise  to  meet  our  Lord  in  the  air?  These 
things  are  naught  compared  with  the  iniquitous 
exhibitions  to  be  seen  in  Calcutta  and  other  parts 
of  India.  How  long,  O Lord,  how  long? 

We  left  Calcutta  at  night,  taking  the  train  for 
Benares.  We  would  have  liked  to  stop  over  at  Se- 
rampore,  where  Carey  did  his  work,  to  see  the  very 
streets  he  traversed  almost  a hundred  years  ago. 
He  was  a cobbler,  a devout  Baptist,  and  an  En- 
glishman. His  heart  was  stirred  while  studying  a 


(195) 


BATHING  GHAT  IN  INDIA. 


Notable  Sights  in  India.  195 

map  of  the  world,  the  outcome  of  which  was  an 
appeal  to  a body  of  clergyman  of  his  own  denomi- 
nation on  the  duty  of  spreading  the  gospel  among 
the  heathen.  Afterward  he  was  sent  to  India. 
About  the  same  time,  a poor  boy  stopped  for  rest 
in  Westminster  Abbey,  feeling  very  forlorn  over 
his  poverty.  He  had  read  a little,  and  besides  had 
a desire  to  study.  The  monuments  to  the  great 
men  of  England,  in  the  Abbey,  inspired  him  with 
courage,  and  never  after  did  he  forget  what  he 
read  that  day  of  the  good  and  great.  Marshman 
kept  his  goal  before  him,  and  when  a man  he 
joined  Carey  in  India,  where  together  they  worked 
and  saw  the  fruit  of  their  labors.  He  translated 
the  Bible  into  many  languages,  while  Carey  toiled 
in  other  ways,  having  but  one  aim — viz.,  to  set 
Christ  before  India.  We  had  not  time  for  Seram- 
pore. 

We  reached  Benares  in  about  twenty  hours.  It 
is  the  sacred  city,  the  Mecca  of  the  Hindoo,  the 
holy  place.  By  sunrise  the  next  morning  we  were 
on  the  Ganges  River,  to  see  the  thousands  who 
daily  bathe  at  sunrise  as  an  act  of  worship  of  the 
dirty  waters.  They  believe  that  washing  in  this 
river  cleanses  them  of  sin — this  act  is  an  atone- 
ment, and  each  bath  is  a promise  of  years  in  para- 
dise. To  die  at  Benares  insures  entrance  into 


196  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

eternal  bliss,  for  it  is  the  holiest  spot  in  the  uni- 
verse, next  to  heaven.  I have  been  told  that  at 
Allahabad  (which  is  near  this  city),  at  a certain 
season,  thousands  of  the  pilgrims  have  their  heads 
shaved  in  the  Ganges,  because  for  every  hair  that 
floats  away  in  the  sacred  river  a million  years  in 
paradise  are  given.  We  drifted  up  and  down  past 
the  bathers  for  an  hour  and  a half.  It  was  a piti- 
ful sight.  Sometimes  it  is  quite  cold,  but  notwith- 
standing they  shiver,  out  into  the  stream  they  go, 
and  kneel  with  clasped  hands  and  bowed  heads, 
muttering  their  prayers ; and  so  beginning  the  day 
cleansed  from  the  stains  of  yesterday,  and  sure  of 
an  entrance  into  everlasting  joy  should  death  come 
before  the  next  sunrise-bath. 

This  visit  to  the  river  gave  us  a view  of  the  fin- 
est buildings  in  the  city,  which  in  their  better  days 
must  have  made  a very  brilliant  and  imposing  ap- 
pearance. At  present  they  do  not  answer  to  the 
glowing  descriptions  of  the  past,  being  largely  gone 
into  decay.  The  Mosque  of  Auringzebe  retains 
its  unbroken  proportions  and  architectural  splen- 
dor. 

After  breakfast  we  went  to  see  the  temples, 
which  are  too  many  for  minute  detail.  The  carv- 
ings of  some  of  them  are  loathsome — more  foul 
than  I had  any  idea  of;  and,  what  is  worse,  these 


CITY  OF  ALL  All  A li  AD,  INDIA. 


197 


Notable  Sights  in  India. 

are  exponents  of  the  life  of  the  people  and  their 
worship.  The  defilements  of  idolatry  cannot  be 
condoned  by  the  rose-water  sentimental  attempts 
of  some  polite  writers.  The  Christian  world  must 
hasten  its  re-enforcements  to  the  heathen,  if  these 
degrading  systems  are  to  be  banished  from  the 
face  of  the  earth. 

The  Monkey  Temple  is  a fine  building,  whose 
main  purpose  seems  to  be  to  furnish  with  its  walls, 
turrets,  towers,  and  domes  a home  for  countless 
monkeys.  They  are  sacred,  and  throng  the  place, 
keeping  up  an  incessant  chattering.  They  take 
the  worship  offered  them,  and  whatever  they  can 
lay  hold  upon  with  composure  and  disregard  of  the 
ten  commandments.  The  Cow  Temple  was  a dis- 
gusting stable.  A thorough  renovation  would  I 
suppose  discompose  the  animals,  consequently  no 
attempt  is  made  at  general  house-cleaning.  The 
pollutions  and  degradations  of  idolatry  are  un- 
speakable— no  less  unendurable  is  the  soil  that 
soap  and  water  could  ameliorate. 

Benares  is  noted  for  its  exquisite  brass-work — 
in  no  other  place  is  the  repousse  work  so  elegant. 
Your  father  purchased  a small  vase,  that  you  may 
have  an  idea  of  the  beauty  of  this  ware.  The 
two  days  spent  in  this  place  have  given  us  some 
understanding  of  its  sanctity,  its  superstitions, 


198  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

and  its  architecture.  We  will  leave  to-night  for 
Lucknow. 

Bombay,  January  17. 

We  have  crossed  India.  The  railway  travel  is 
fatiguing.  Travelers  carry  their  own  bedding, 
the  coaches  furnishing  only  the  place  for  spread- 
ing rugs  and  pillows ; and  if  the  train  be  crowded, 
there  is  no  space  for  lying  down,  especially  as  the 
luggage  is  mostly  in  the  compartment  with  the 
traveler.  Even  at  the  hotels  we  were  expected  to 
use  our  own  bedding,  the  mattress  and  sheets  only 
being  furnished. 

A servant  is  indispensable  in  a journey  through 
India.  He  must  speak  English,  of  course.  We 
employed  a man  at  Calcutta  to  go  with  us  until  we 
shall  sail,  at  a rupee  (thirty-five  cents)  a day,  be- 
sides furnishing  him  a blanket  and  a third-class 
railroad  ticket.  He  boards  himself.  He  per- 
forms the  duties  of  a porter  on  the  train,  hires 
our  cabs,  waits  on  us  at  the  table  (we  would  not 
be  half-fed  without  him),  sees  to  the  minute  details 
of  our  rooms  (a  bath  would  be  impossible  without 
Abdul;  I doubt  if  we  could  get  a pitcher  of  water, 
for  there  are  no  bells).  He  sleeps  on  the  floor 
outside  our  door,  and  to  the  best  of  his  ability 
looks  out  for  our  interests.  To  be  sure  he  is  slow, 
and  we  are  often  in  haste,  our  time  being  short — 


■ 


(199) 


Notable  Sights  in  India.  199 

but  I do  not  know  how  we  could  have  managed  at 
the  hotels  without  him : perhaps  in  the  railroad 
travels  we  might  have  dispensed  with  a servant. 
He  has  seen  to  our  wants  in  the  kitchen  and  linen- 
room,  watched  lest  we  should  be  despoiled,  fought 
our  small  battles  with  the  low-caste  (he  is  high- 
caste)  “hewers  of  wood”  on  the  trains — always 
calls  me  “mistress”  and  your  father  “master,” 
but  never  gives  advice  of  any  sort.  He  has  served 
us  well. 

The  chief  interest  of  Lucknow  and  Cawnpore 
is  in  connection  with  the  mutiny  of  1857-8.  It  is 
a frightful  story.  I am  sickened  as  I recall  the 
sufferings  of  women  and  children — pent  up  in  the 
under-ground  chambers,  almost  without  air,  and 
with  scanty  supply  of  food,  during  the  terrible 
days  of  a summer  in  India — and  of  the  heroism  of 
the  men  who  defended  them  against  all  odds,  till 
Havelock  came  to  their  rescue.  The  walls  of  the 
Residency  at  Lucknow,  and  other  buildings,  still 
stand,  marked  by  the  shot  and  shell,  in  the  midst 
of  grounds  kept  with  the  care  and  beauty  of  an 
English  garden.  The  memorials  are  there  in  the 
shape  of  monuments  and  tombs  to  the  brave  men 
who  fought  and  died,  or  were  massacred.  At 
Cawnpore  every  thing  is  a reminder  in  some  form 
of  the  horrible  siege  of  those  days  and  the  months 


200  Letters  frail  the  Orient. 

of  darkness  and  terror.  A memorial  church,  filled 
with  tablets  to  the  dead;  the  angel  in  marble,  over 
the  well  into  which  Nana  threw  the  bodies — many 
of  them  still  living — of  the  treacherously  massacred 
women  and  children;  the  monument  to  General 
Wheeler,  the  ill-starred  commandant  who,  trust- 
ing in  Nana’s  word,  surrendered  his  men  only  to 
see  them  murdered;  the  stone  plates  marking  the 
line  of  intrenchments ; the  wells  from  which  the 
besieged  procured  water  at  the  risk  of  their  lives; 
the  old  barracks  and  the  ground  where  a terrible 
vengeance  was  executed  upon  the  Sepoys — are  all 
pointed  out  to  the  visitor. 

Our  next  journey  was  to  Agra,  one  of  the  capi- 
tals of  the  old  Mogul  Empire  in  the  days  of  its 
power  and  pride.  Within  the  fort  the  remains  of 
two  palaces  are  standing — one  of  them  almost  en- 
tire with  its  courts  and  colonnades,  its  audience- 
chambers,  its  zenanas  with  delicately  carved  and 
inlaid  marble  halls,  balconies,  baths,  and  sleeping- 
apartments.  It  is  not  difficult  to  imagine  the  luxu- 
rious furnishing  of  rug  and  tapestry  and  curtains 
of  silk,  cashmere,  and  fine  linen,  and  reproduce 
the  life  led  by  those  masters  of  empire.  The 
Pearl  Mosque  is  also  within  the  fort.  It  is  an  ex- 
quisitely beautiful  building.  Its  pavements,  pillars, 
vaulted  ceilings,  and  domes  are  of  white  marble. 


TIIE  TAJ  MAHAL,  AT  AGRA. 


201 


Notable  Sights  in  India. 

But  the  crowning  beauty  of  Agra,  the  purest  piece 
of  architecture  in  the  world,  is  the  Taj  Mahal,  a 
mausoleum  erected  by  the  Shah  Jehan  to  his  beau- 
tiful queen.  The  platform  on  which  it  is  built  is 
marble  mosaic,  while  the  Taj  is  ornamented  by 
mosaics  in  jewels,  the  doors  and  screens  being 
wonderful  marble  lace-work.  It  cost  fifteen  mill- 
ions, and  required  twenty  thousand  men  nearly 
twenty  years  to  build  it.  It  is  the  noblest,  tender- 
est  monument  ever  erected  to  a woman’s  virtues. 

The  palace  of  Akbar,  in  his  day,  three  hundred 
years  ago,  was  inlaid  with  costly  gems ; and  Jehan’s 
throne,  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  had  a 
background  of  sapphires  and  emeralds,  to  repre- 
sent a peacock,  which  cost  thirty  millions.  These 
were  stolen  or  otherwise  disposed  of  more  than  a 
century  since. 

I will  not  attempt  further  description.  Tombs 
here  mean  massive  buildings.  It  is  wonderful 
what  effect  white  marble  can  produce.  The  shafts 
and  sculptured  figures  of  our  cemeteries  seem  cold 
to  this  pure  stone,  which  rises  into  domes,  mina- 
rets, and  palaces  to  the  dead.  But  do  not  under- 
stand me  as  recommending  this  tremendous  out- 
lay of  money.  I prefer  that  monuments  shall  be 
institutions  for  the  living. 

I have  explored  Delhi  to  a small  extent — the 


202  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

fort,  containing  some  handsome  remains  of  a pal- 
ace of  Akbar,  the  greatest  of  the  Mogul  emperors; 
another  Pearl  Mosque  as  beautiful  as  that  at  Agra ; 
a large  number  of  English  buildings;  some  fine 
old  temples;  and  the  bazaars,  where  are  found  the 
industries  of  Northern  India  at  their  best.  The 
shawls,  gold  and  silver  embroideries,  gauzes,  silks, 
rugs,  and  tapestries  are  exquisite.  Every  woman 
enjoys  looking  at  these  goods.  We  find  the  mer- 
chants much  more  willing  to  display  their  wares 
than  the  Chinese — perhaps  because  Abdul  knows 
howto  manipulate  them.  We  are  not  making  pur- 
chases, though  Mrs.  B.  buys  considerably. 

Delhi  was  also  the  scene  of  bloodshed  in  the 
Sepoy  rebellion.  Monuments  and  sign-boards  lo- 
cate the  heroic  deeds  and  the  losses  of  the  hand- 
ful of  the  besieged. 

At  Jeypore  there  was  much  to  see.  It  is  one  of 
the  cities  still  under  native  rule,  though  tributary 
to  the  British  Government.  We  did  not  see  the 
rajah’s  palace  on  account  of  the  exactions  of  “red 
tape ; ” but  we  visited  his  stables  and  saw  his  three 
hundred  fine  horses  and  his  fighting-elephants, 
which  are  immense  in  size. 

We  made  application  to  visit  the  Amber  Palace, 
which  is  beautifully  located  on  one  of  the  hills  five 
miles  from  the  city.  The  last  two  miles  of  the 


(203) 


A ROYAL  PROCESSION  IN  INDIA 


203 


Notable  Sights  in  India. 

way  were  made  on  the  elephant  which  the  rajah 
always  sends  with  the  card  of  admission.  It  was 
a tremendous  beast,  larger  than  any  I ever  saw, 
and  had  a heavy,  rolling,  jerky  gait.  He  knelt 
to  receive  us,  and  again  when  we  dismounted. 
As  he  rose  or  knelt  I almost  thought  an  earth- 
quake was  shaking  Jeypore — it  was  an  astonishing 
upheaval  and  down-sitting. 

The  effect  of  tiny  mirrors  in  one  of  the  halls 
of  the  palace  was  peculiar  and  very  pretty.  We 
also  went  into  the  hall  of  sacrifice,  where  once  a 
year  the  rajah  offers  a goat  to  Karli.  In  Calcut- 
ta we  were  in  a temple  at  the  hour  of  sacrifice, 
when  the  narrow  entrance  was  thronged  by  the 
worshipers  coming  and  going,  leading  their  goats 
and  bullocks  to  the  priest.  We  watched  the  service 
for  some  time.  So  I have  been  twice  face  to  face 
with  this  ineradicable  notion  of  sacrifice — a notion 
finding  its  beginning  in  the  faith  of  the  world’s  first 
martyr,  Abel,  in  his  effort  to  draw  nigh  to  God, 
and  never  since  lost  where  men  have  sought  him. 
I want  to  tell  the  world  that  not  “by  the  blood  of 
goats  and  calves,  but  by  his  own  blood  he  entered 
into  the  holy  place,  having  obtained  eternal  re- 
demption for  us.” 

Bombay  is  the  city  of  India  for  architecture  and 
gardening.  The  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway 


204  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

has  here  the  finest  railway  station  in  the  world.  It 
is  the  most  notable  building  in  the  city,  and  the 
first  seen  as  you  enter  the  bay.  It  cost  thirty-seven 
lacs  of  rupees — that  is,  one  million  four  hundred 
and  forty-two  thousand  five  hundred  dollars. 

We  drove  to  the  Towers  of  Silence,  the  place 
where  the  Parsees  dispose  of  their  dead.  They 
are  on  an  eminence  from  which  Bombay  looks 
very  beautiful,  as  though  built  in  a grove  of  palms. 
The  Parsees  are  Persians  and  of  Persian  descent, 
and  are  worshipers  of  the  sun.  In  their  temples 
burns  perpetually  the  sacred  fire  of  Zoroaster. 
There  are  fifty  thousand  of  them  in  Bombay, 
though  they  are  scattered  in  other  parts  of  India. 
They  are  men  of  wealth,  and  we  know  them  by 
their  peculiar  scoop-like  hats.  Their  women  are 
pretty,  and  dress  in  silks  of  the  most  delicate 
shades,  with  silk  hose  and  shoes  to  match. 

I wish  I could  tell  you  all  that  we  have  seen,  but 
it  is  impossible  to  keep  it  in  mind.  I have  been 
amused  at  the  long  strings  of  camels — twenty-five 
and  thirty  in  a line — each  one  tied  by  the  tail  to  a 
rope  caught  in  the  nose  of  the  one  behind,  regard- 
less of  comfort.  Query:  Suppose  the  first  should 
start  in  a run,  when  the  others  would  not — what 
would  happen? 

The  jugglers  are  everywhere.  I have  seen  the 


(205; 


A HINDOO  CART. 


Notable  Sights  in  India.  205 

mango  trick  several  times.  A curious  trick  was 
performed  by  a man  wearing  only  a skirt,  so  that 
it  was  impossible  to  understand  how  he  deceived 
us.  He  appeared  to  pass  an  egg  into  his  eye. 
What  he  did  with  it  I cannot  conceive,  for  there 
was  no  place  for  it  visible.  After  some  incanta- 
tions he  ran  to  a gentleman  next  to  your  father, 
and  seemed  to  take  the  egg  from  the  leg  of  his 
trousers.  I saw  a fight  between  a cobra  and  a 
mongoose,  a small  animal  the  size  of  a rat.  The 
man  set  the  mongoose  upon  the  snake,  who  soon 
demolished  the  little  creature.  I was  sure  the  cobra 
was  dead,  for  he  lay  there  without  any  appearance 
of  life.  The  charmer  opened  his  mouth,  forcing 
in  scraps  of  some  root,  which  proved  a panacea. 
In  a half-hour  the  reptile  showed  signs  of  resto- 
ration. The  mongoose  bites  through  the  back, 
bringing  the  blood,  and  I heard  that  recovery  is 
rare.  The  same  man  had  a snake-bite  on  his  arm 
while  he  was  exhibiting  to  us — I saw*  the  mark  of 
the  teeth  and  the  blood.  He  took  bits  of  the  root 
before  mentioned,  several  times,  and  did  not  seem 
to  fear  any  danger. 

The  poverty  of  India  is  equal  to  the  poverty  of 
China,  with  the  exception  that  the  climate  being 
tropical,  save  in  the  north,  there  is  no  need  of 
warm  clothing,  and  for  food  there  is  fruit  to  be  had 


206  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

for  running  up  the  long  trunks  of  the  palms.  Five 
or  six  cents  a day  is  the  average  support  of  the 
poor  people.  The  men  are  tall  and  handsome, 
but  must  be  hungry  half  their  days.  How  little 
happiness  there  is  among  the  hundreds  of  millions 
of  the  people  here  and  in  China ! Shall  we  not 
hasten  to  tell  them  of  the  priceless  treasure  which 
will  more  than  compensate  for  the  privations  and 
sufferings  of  earth? 

The  Salvation  Army  is  in  India  in  large  num- 
bers, and  seems  to  have  gotten  a strong  hold  on 
many.  I have  seen  them  on  the  streets,  and  I 
hear  they  are  pressing  into  the  interior.  God  give 
grace  and  wisdom  to  all  Christian  workers ! 

The  caste  prejudice  enters  into  every  condition 
of  life  in  India.  Foreigners  are  compelled  to  keep 
many  sen-ants,  because  none  will  do  the  work  of 
the  lower  caste.  I asked  Abdul  one  day  to  move 
a certain  piece  of  furniture  to  another  part  of  the 
room.  He  had  been  so  polite  that  I was  surprised 
at  his  noncompliance,  till  after  awhile  he  said  that 
he  would  lose  his  caste  if  he  touched  it;  but  he 
could  have  it  done.  The  cook  will  buy  the  mar- 
keting, but  will  not  carry  it  home;  the  man  who 
washes  the  dishes  will  not  black  the  boots ; and 
so  it  is  all  down  the  line  of  house-work:  none  of 
them  will  touch  food  prepared  by  a low-caste  cook. 


207 


Notable  Sights  in  India. 

In  traveling,  a rajah  will  do  without  food  dur- 
ing his  entire  journey  unless  a man  of  his  caste 
can  be  found  to  prepare  his  meals;  and  I have 
been  told  that  even  in  the  jails  the  cooks  are  Brah- 
mans— otherwise  the  prisoners  would  starve.  On 
the  streets  the  passers-by  are  very  particular  lest 
their  clothes  should  brush  against  us.  I have  seen 
many  hold  their  gowns  very  close  lest  they  touch 
us  of  the  unclean  nations. 


LETTER  XVII. 


IN  THE  LAND  OF  THE  PHARAOHS— CAIRO  AND  ITS  THOUSAND 
ATTRACTIONS. 

January  iS,  18S9. 

E sailed  in  the  steamer  “Siam”  from  Bom- 


bay, for  the  Red  Sea,  where  at  Suez  we 


will  take  the  cars  for  Cairo.  For  a day  or  two 
the  sea  was  very  rough,  almost  every  one  being 
compelled  to  retire.  We  were  unable  to  maintain 
a perpendicular,  the  chairs  pitched  from  side  to 
side,  and  the  ship  shook  convulsively.  I did  not 
lose  my  place  on  deck,  nor  was  I absent  from  the 
table,  where  I sat  next  to  the  captain,  an  agreeable 
bachelor  of  fifty.  At  Aden  we  changed  steamers 
and  sailed  on  through  the  Red  Sea  to  Suez,  at 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  Suez  Canal. 

On  our  arrival  at  Suez  we  were  informed  that 
passengers  from  Bombay  would  not  be  permitted 
to  land,  on  account  of  a cholera  scare,  there  be- 
ing more  or  less  of  that  plague  in  India  all  the 
year  round.  Accordingly  ten  of  us  were  ordered 
into  a skiff,  just  large  enough  for  us,  our  baggage, 
the  officer  in  charge  of  us,  and  the  two  men  to 
manage  the  boat.  We  were  paddled  back  for 
nearly  three  hours,  and  landed  at  the  Quarantine 


(208) 


(209) 


AN  EGYPTIAN  SPHINX. 


Land  of  the  Pharaohs.  209 

Station  on  the  Arabian  coast,  which  is  a desert 
shore.  For  many  miles  beyond  vision,  and  far  be- 
yond the  horizon,  there  was  nothing  to  be  seen  but 
the  vast  desert,  save  one  small  oasis  two  miles  dis- 
tant. Our  bungalow  where  we  spent  the  next 
twenty-four  hours  was  on  the  beach,  so  that  but  a 
few  minutes  elapsed  after  landing  ere  we  were  set 
to  housekeeping  in  this  dreary  region,  where  sel- 
dom any  but  Bedouins  are  seen. 

The  steward  of  our  good  steamer  “Nepaul,” 
knowing  the  barren  conditions  of  quarantine,  had 
furnished  us  with  luncheon  for  three  meals;  other- 
wise we  would  have  fasted,  for  there  was  not  a mor- 
sel of  food  to  be  had,  nor  fuel  of  any  sort.  There 
w'ere  cots  (new),  which  we  made  comfortable  for 
the  night  with  our  own  blankets,  rugs,  and  pillows. 
I am  sure  a more  cheerful  party  never  visited  that 
shore,  notwithstanding  we  were  where  we  did  not 
want  to  be,  and  in  circumstances  most  unpropitious 
— having  two  sick  gentlemen  to  look  after. 

Meal-time  came,  and  our  wits  were  taxed  to  know 
how  to  serve  the  viands  without  cutlery  or  china. 
We  improvised  plates  of  paper,  and  used  a dirk 
for  a carver,  scissors  and  pocket-knives  for  per- 
sonal use.  There  wras  not  a fork  among  us.  Cups 
were  not  needed;  there  was  no  fire,  consequently 
no  coffee  nor  tea.  Our  first  meal  was  very  nice, 
14 


210  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

the  second  fair,  but  by  the  time  of  the  third  we 
had  only  stale  scraps  which  were  not  appetizing. 

In  the  afternoon  some  of  us  walked  through  the 
sand  to  the  oasis,  two  miles  distant.  The  name  is 
“ Moses’s  Wells,”  and  it  is  said  to  be  the  place 
where  Moses  sung,  “ I will  sing  unto  the  Lord,  for 
he  hath  triumphed  gloriously;  ” and  where  Miriam 
answered  with  a hymn  of  praise,  “Sing  ye  to  the 
Lord,  for  he  hath  triumphed  gloriously;  the  horse 
and  his  rider  hath  he  thrown  into  the  sea.” 

We  counted  five  large  wells.  The  water  is  brack- 
ish, but  the  date-palms,  grass,  and  a few  plants 
were  very  green.  Camels,  with  their  long  strides, 
and  the  Bedouins  passed  to  and  fro,  and  around 
two  or  three  huts  we  saw  children  at  pla}u  A very 
old  man  brought  us  hot  coffee  and  a few  dates,  for 
which  we  were  glad  to  give  him  a trifling  douceur. 

How  could  we  forget  the  stirring  events  which 
took  place  four  thousand  years  ago  on  these  sands 
and  in  the  waters  of  this  sea?  Moses,  with  six 
hundred  thousand  men,  besides  women  and  chil- 
dren, stood  in  this  wilderness,  and  the  Lord  him- 
self “went  before  them  by  day  in  a pillar  of  cloud, 
to  lead  them  the  way;  and  by  night  in  a pillar  of 
fire,  to  give  them  light;  to  go  by  day  and  night.” 
Marvelous  leading!  Amazing  providence!  Of 
course  we  cannot  say  that  the  hosts  of  Israel  drank 


■- 


'211J 


THE  CITY  OF  CAIKO. 


Land  of  the  Pharaohs.  211 

from  these  wells — it  is  probable — but  it  is  almost 
certain  that  the  outskirts  of  the  camp  reached  to 
this  region : the  two  millions  passed  near  by,  as 
they  went  on  to  their  forty  years  of  discipline,  ere 
they  entered  the  promised  land. 

Our  slow  canoe  took  us  to  Suez  the  next  day  in 
time  to  see  our  train  steam  away  beyond  our  reach. 
Another  twenty-four  hours,  and  we  were  on  our 
way  to  Cairo.  The  road  runs  for  a large  part  of 
the  way  through  the  desert,  crossing  the  line  of  the 
exodus,  and  then  comes  into  the  land  of  Goshen, 
which  is  to-day  noticeable,  as  in  Jacob’s  time,  for 
its  fertility  and  fitness  for  cattle.  We  saw  them  in 
numbers  grazing,  and  remarked  the  striking  con- 
trast between  this  and  the  desert  land  we  had  just 
crossed.  We  passed  Tel-el  Kebir,  the  scene  of  the 
battle  between  the  English  and  Arabi  Pasha,  which 
resulted  in  the  dethronement  of  Arabi  and  his  exile 
to  Ceylon,  where  he  now  lives  luxuriously  at  the 
expense  of  Great  Britain.  Ilis  wife  refused  to  go 
with  him,  and  lives  here  in  opulence,  while  he 
keeps  his  harem  at  Columbo. 

About  fifteen  miles  from  Cairo  your  father 
pointed  out  the  Pyramids.  Though  they  were  ten 
miles  off,  the  two  large  ones  stood  out  very  dis- 
tinct in  the  clear  afternoon  light.  Soon  the  mina- 
rets of  the  mosque  of  Mehemet  Ali  came  in  sight, 


212 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

and  then  the  domes  of  countless  other  mosques, 
and  in  a few  minutes  we  were  in  Cairo  and  at 
Shepherd’s  Hotel. 

The  next  day  we  went  to  the  Boulak  Museum,  a 
wonderful  collection  of  Egyptian  antiquities.  I 
was  surprised  at  the  vigor  and  life-likeness  of 
much  of  the  ancient  sculpture.  The  stiffness  of 
the  pictures  does  not  fairly  represent  it.  But  the 
most  impressive  things  to  me  were  the  wonderfully 
preserved  mummies  of  Sethi  I.,  the  Pharaoh  whose 
daughter  rescued  and  adopted  Moses,  and  Rame- 
ses  II.,  the  king  from  whom  Moses  fled  when  he  had 
killed  the  Egyptian.  Their  faces  are  almost  life- 
like, the  hair  in  good  condition,  and  teeth  as  white 
as  those  of  living  men.  They  lie  side  by  side,  and 
it  is  really  possible  to  tell  what  manner  of  men 
they  were.  A princess  of  their  day,  with  her  week- 
old  infant  by  her  side,  is  also  well  preserved.  Some 
of  the  cloths  in  which  she  was  wrapped  have  kept 
their  tints,  and  her  jewelry  is  so  beautiful  that  one 
might  desire  a specimen  or  two.  The  history  of 
their  times  as  given  in  the  Bible  is  verified  by  the 
monuments  and  scrolls  whose  hieroglyphics  mod- 
ern students  are  able  to  read.  The  mummy  of  the 
Pharaoh  of  the  exodus  has  not  been  found — per- 
haps because  he  was  overthrown  with  his  hosts  in 
the  midst  of  the  Red  Sea. 


(2131 


RUINS  ON  THE  NILE. 


Land  of  the  Pharaohs.  213 

What  a wonderful  history  was  wrought  out  in 
Egypt ! It  was  a great  country  when  Abraham  so- 
journed there  and  was  admitted  to  converse  with 
the  king;  and  when  Joseph,  a boy,  was  sold  to 
Potiphar,  and  was  prospered  by  the  Lord,  who  re- 
mained his  friend  through  many  vicissitudes,  until 
he  was  Pharaoh's  prime-minister,  and  son-in-law 
to  the  priest  of  On.  It  was  in  Egypt,  when  fam- 
ine was  sore  in  Canaan,  that  Pharaoh  gave  Joseph, 
for  his  father  and  brethren,  “the  best  of  the  land” 
for  their  habitation ; and  here  the  old  man,  with  his 
sons,  and  son’s  sons,  and  their  wives,  and  all  their 
cattle  and  goods,  settled  and  grew  and  multiplied. 
Here  they  became  a great  people;  and  after  awhile 
“ there  arose  a new  king,”  who  set  over  them  task- 
masters to  “afflict  them  with  burdens,”  and  “made 
their  lives  bitter  with  hard  bondage.”  “Good 
when  he  gives,  supremely  good,”  was  Joseph’s 
refrain,  I suppose,  when  the  Lord  was  with  him; 
and  to-day,  as  we  look  back  four  thousand  years 
and  see  God’s  meaning  in  the  training  of  his  peo- 
ple, shall  we  not  sing,  “ Nor  less  when  he  denies?” 

You  know  the  story  of  Moses — how  he  stood 
before  the  king  demanding  the  release  of  the  peo- 
ple of  God,  and  how  Pharaoh  promised  and  broke 
his  word,  promised  and  broke  his  word,  many 
times,  till  at  last  the  angel  of  the  Lord  slew  the 


214  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

first-born  in  every  Egyptian  household.  Not  till 
then  was  Israel  allowed  to  go.  How  wonderful 
when  that  vast  host  crossed  the  Red  Sea  on  dry 
ground,  the  waters  being  “a  wall  unto  them  on 
their  right-hand  and  on  their  left!  ” The  children 
of  Abraham  escaped  from  oppression  and  the  deep 
waters,  while  those  who  defied  God  were  never 
again  allowed  to  mock  at  his  command  or  chal- 
lenge his  wrath. 

Nearly  five  hundred  years  after  the  exodus, 
King  Solomon  married  an  Egyptian  wife  ; and  into 
Egypt  Jeroboam  fled  from  the  wrath  of  Solomon. 
Many  other  times  there  was  communication  be- 
tween Egypt  and  the  people  of  God  till,  centuries 
after,  the  infant  Jesus — the  Son  of  God  and  of 
man — was  brought  here  by  Joseph  and  Mary,  to 
escape  the  cruelty  of  Herod,  and  remained  until 
the  death  of  the  king. 

We  went  to  the  Coptic  Church  in  Cairo,  which 
was  built  nine  hundred  years  ago  upon  the  spot 
where  it  is  said  Mary  and  the  Babe  found  rest.  I 
am  not  a worshiper  of  times  and  places,  but  I 
confess  to  pleasure  at  thought  of  the  possibility 
that  I stood  where  the  blessed  Child  slept  after  the 
wear}'-  flight. 

Of  course  the  Pyramids  are  the  chief  interest  to 
all  travelers  in  Egypt.  They  date  far  back  to  the 


(215) 


THE  PYRAMIDS  AT  GHEEZEH. 


Land  of  the  Pharaohs.  215 

days  of  the  Pharaohs  who  built  them  and  were 
buried  within  their  vaults.  They  stood  there  on 
the  edge  of  the  Libyan  Desert  in  the  days  of 
Moses,  and  perhaps  of  Abraham.  They  are  con- 
sidered the  oldest  works  of  the  hand  of  man  yet 
discovered,  though  it  is  possible  that  some  of  the 
cuneiform  inscriptions  are  older.  I have  heard  that 
Adam's  contemporary  is  in  the  British  Museum. 
Certainly  no  great  work  of  industry  preceded  the 
Pyramids.  They  are  tremendous — beyond  any 
thing  I ever  saw  except  the  oceans  and  the  mount- 
ains, and  God  made  them.  The  ascent  of  the 
Great  Cheops  looked  easy  enough.  I did  not  at- 
tempt either  that  or  the  visit  to  the  interior  cham- 
bers where  the  bodies  of  the  dead  Pharaohs  were 
placed,  though  the  latter  are  easy  of  access:  twenty 
years  ago  I would  not  have  hesitated. 

Cairo  has  a thousand  attractions,  not  the  least 
of  which  is  the  variety  of  real  life  to  be  seen  on 
its  streets.  It  is  a cosmopolitan  city.  There  are 
more  nationalities  represented  than  in  any  city  I 
have  yet  seen.  I saw  signs  over  stores  and  cafes 
that  your  father  says  are  Hebrew,  Greek,  German, 
Italian,  Spanish,  English,  Syriac,  Arabic,  Coptic, 
and  Turkish.  The  various  races  live  in  separate 
quarters  bearing  their  names,  but  mingle  freely  in 
the  business  parts  of  the  town.  In  the  old  city 


216 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

you  may  be  reminded  of  the  “Arabian  Nights” — 
the  open  shops — the  cross-legged  owners  waiting 
with  Eastern  imperturbability  for  customers,  or  chaf- 
fering over  a trade  and  calling  upon  the  voluble 
crowd,  always  gathered,  to  help  in  the  transaction : 
the  noise,  the  confusion,  the  donkeys,  camels — all 
are  there.  It  would  not  be  difficult  to  imagine, 
after  standing  for  awhile  in  one  of  the  thorough- 
fares about  the  bazaars,  that  the  Sultan  Haroun 
and  his  vizier,  Giaour,  were  passing  by. 

The  European  part  of  the  city  is  well  built.  The 
garden,  Esbikiyeh,  of  twenty -two  acres,  with  lakes, 
grottoes,  walks,  trees,  shrubs,  flowers — all  pecul- 
iar to  the  climate — and  a music-stand  from  which 
a large  band  of  natives  discourse  European  music 
every  afternoon,  are  interesting. 

As  you  know,  we  have  not  time  for  the  trip  your 
father  took  two  years  ago,  up  the  Nile;  so  I must 
be  satisfied  to  know  by  hearsay  about  the  ruins 
and  the  tombs  and  other  historical  sights. 

I took  my  last  drive  in  Cairo  to-day.  It  was  a 
delightful  afternoon,  and  hundreds  of  persons  were 
upon  the  streets.  We  passed  the  Khedive,  a fine- 
looking  man ; he  raised  his  hat  to  us,  as  to  every 
one  he  met,  whether  native  or  foreign.  Our  driver 
had  informed  us  of  his  coming,  while  we  were  yet 
some  distance  off.  We  were  also  told  that  the 


(217) 


217 


Land  of  the  Pharaohs. 

carriage  which  followed  his  was  occupied  by  his 
children  and  attended  by  the  regularly  appointed 
servants  of  the  royal  household.  During  the  drive 
we  passed  a dozen  carriages,  full  of  the  wives  from 
the  various  harems  of  the  city.  Their  veils  are  a 
poetical  pleasantry — that  is,  instead  of  hiding  their 
faces,  the  bright,  pretty  women  whom  we  saw  to- 
day wore  veils  of  tulle  which  enhanced,  rather 
than  concealed,  their  beauty. 

I suppose  the  freedom  of  a drive  has  been  al- 
lowed only  in  late  years.  Time  was  when  the 
women  of  the  harems  of  all  the  Turkish  dominions 
were  kept  in  the  same  seclusion  that  is  still  prac- 
ticed in  the  zenanas  of  India. 

One  of  the  strangest  sights  in  Cairo  is  the  relig- 
ious service  of  the  dervishes,  a Moslem  sect.  Fri- 
day is  their  chief  day  of  worship,  corresponding 
to  our  Sunday.  The  ceremony  of  the  dancing 
dervishes  begins  with  the  beating  of  the  drums 
and  tambourines  and  blowing  of  the  trumpet,  to- 
gether with  a chant  which  is  an  invocation  to  Al- 
lah. This  medley  of  music  continues  through  the 
entire  service,  even  while  the  sheik  prays,  and 
during  the  whirling  of  the  assembled  twenty  or 
thirty  dervishes.  Each  dervish  rises  upon  one 
foot  and  spins  round  and  round  till  the  specta- 
tors grow  dizzy,  his  hands,  long  hair,  and  skirt 


218  Lett ci's  from  the  Orient. 

extended  to  the  utmost.  Finally  the  revolutions 
seemed  to  exhaust  them,  and  a few  minutes’  inter- 
mission appeared  necessary,  which  they  employ  in 
calling  upon  Allah:  a repetition  of  the  whirling 
a second  and  third  time  concludes  the  service. 
Visitors  are  expected  to  give  a few  “backsheesh” 
on  retiring. 

The  howling  dervishes  present  a still  more 
painful  sight.  They  commence  with  a prayer  led 
by  the  sheik,  followed  by  the  musical  instruments 
and  the  howling  of  the  fraternity,  who  gradually 
rise  to  their  feet,  and  throw  themselves  back  and 
forth,  to  the  right  and  left,  with  great  force  and 
rapidity,  their  long  hair  touching  the  floor  behind 
and  before.  Finally  their  contortions  and  screams 
exhaust  them,  and  for  a minute  they  cease  in  order 
to  breathe  and  rest;  but  again  they  roar  and  throw 
themselves  about  with  such  violent  frenzy  that  I 
could  have  thought  them  maniacs  had  I not  known 
that  the  howls  were,  “O  Allah!  O Allah!  O Al- 
lah ! ” Two  of  the  men  fainted  from  exhaustion. 

The  poverty  of  the  East!  Here,  as  in  China 
and  India,  the  poverty  of  the  millions  is  pitiful.  I 
forget  the  amount  of  taxes  Egypt  pays  Turkey — at 
least  three  or  four  millions;  no  wonder  that  she  is 
impoverished.  Where  the  population  is  so  densely 
crowded  as  in  all  the  East,  I suppose  that  only 


(219) 


MOUTH  OF  THE  SUEZ  CAN  AT. 


Land  of  the  Pharaohs.  219 

the  few  can  be  comfortably  circumstanced.  How 
terrible  the  thought  that  millions  upon  millions  of 
these  poor  creatures  have  neither  the  life  that  is 
nor  that  which  is  to  come  ! Lost  to  all  enjoyment  of 
this  world  by  reason  of  grinding  poverty,  and  lost  in 
the  eternity  beyond  because  we  take  our  ease,  rath- 
er than  bestir  ourselves  to  send  them  the  -word  of 
eternal  life!  I have  sat  on  the  hotel  veranda  in  the 
sunshine,  watching  the  people.  This  is  a fine  part 
of  the  city,  and  I suppose  the  Mussulmans  that 
pass  this  way  are  “well  to  do.”  Many  of  them 
speak  English,  and  I catch  their  words  of  saluta- 
tion: they  invariably  say  “Allah  is  good  ” in  pass- 
ing, instead  of  our  “Good-morning.”  If  they 
have  learned  that  the  Divine  Being  is  good,  why 
do  they  not  know  by  the  teaching  that  “the  Lord 
he  is  the  God?”  I wonder  at  the  patience  of  God. 
He  waits  for  us;  we  are  so  slow,  and  yet  he  waits. 
If  his  patience  were  like  his  anger — “but  for  a 
moment” — how  could  we  stand  before  him?  Will 
he  keep  his  patience  forever?  Let  us  not  trifle 
with  his  goodness. 

February  6. 

We  are  in  Ismailia,  and  about  to  take  the  steam- 
er through  the  Suez  Canal  to  Port  Said.  When 
M.  de  Lesseps  began  to  talk  about  this  canal,  all 
the  world  laughed.  When  he  set  to  work,  only 


220  Letters  f rom  the  Orient . 

France  believed  that  it  could  be  done.  He  fin- 
ished it  twenty  years  ago,  at  a cost  of  about  a 
hundred  million  dollars.  I suppose  from  what  I 
have  read  that  England  saves  her  hundreds  of  thou- 
sands by  this  canal-route  to  India  and  Hong-kong. 

February  8. 

We  are  on  the  beautiful  Mediterranean.  The 
waters  beneath  us  and  the  skies  above  are  blue,  so 
that  I can  scarcely  tell  where  one  ends  and  the 
other  begins  at  the  far-off  horizon. 

We  steamed  very  slowly  through  the  Suez  Ca- 
nal— it  is  not  possible  to  go  fast — and  were  de- 
layed twelve  hours  or  more  at  Port  Said,  which 
gave  Mrs.  B.  and  myself  time  for  the  shops.  We 
saw  some  pretty  wares,  but  of  course  not  as  many 
as  in  the  bazaars  at  Cairo,  where  the  silks,  cash- 
meres, silver,  and  gold  are  so  tempting.  But  none 
of  them  are  as  beautiful  as  the  blue  Mediterranean. 


LETTER  XVIII. 

A SHORT  STAY  IN  ROME— THE  ANCIENT  RUINS  AND  MODERN 
GRANDEUR  OF  THE  ETERNAL  CITY. 

February  io,  1889. 

WE  are  in  Rome,  “the  cradle  and  grave  of 
empires,”  “from  the  very  stones  of  which 
one  may  grow  wise.” 

Rome  is  a study  not  to  be  completed  in  a few 
days.  Her  treasures  cannot  be  counted  in  one 
winter,  nor  her  history  learned  from  one  writer. 
Yet  in  one  week  her  attractions  so  impressed  me 
that  I am  sure  another  visit  would  be  more  profit- 
able and  more  delightful.  I will  always  remember 
my  short  stay  in  Rome  as  one  of  the  greatest  events 
of  my  life ; the  more  so  that  it  was  a dream  I 
hardly  expected  to  realize  till  the  goal  was  almost 
reached. 

Rome  was  founded  750  B.C.  The  Republic 
was  established  500  B.C.  The  Empire  arose  from, 
the  ruins  of  the  Republic  about  50  B.C.  Long 
before,  she  was  mistress  of  the  world ; and  for  cent- 
uries afterward  she  retained  her  greatness. 

The  accumulations  of  decay  and  dust  buried  the 
old  city  ages  ago.  Excavations  were  begun  more 
than  two  hundred  years  ago,  and  are  yet  in  prog- 

(221) 


222  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

ress ; perhaps  centuries  hence  there  will  still  be 
portions  of  old  Rome  to  be  unearthed.  As  we 
stood  in  the  ruins  of  the  Palace  of  the  Caesars, 
they  were  still  exploring  under-ground  for  the  treas- 
ures of  the  olden  time.  The  mosaic  floors,  the 
frescoed  walls,  the  rooms  and  halls  of  the  palaces 
are  in  sufficient  preservation  for  one  to  understand 
what  manner  of  buildings  the  Caesars  occupied.  I 
believe  it  is  claimed  that  one  of  the  unearthed  ba-. 
silicas  is  the  hall  where  Paul  stood  before  Nero. 

I cannot  describe  Saint  Peter’s.  It  is  the  most 
magnificent  cathedral  of  the  world,  representing 
many  millions  of  money,  much  of  which  cost  the 
blood  of  the  faithful.  It  is  colossal,  being  six 
hundred  and  thirteen  and  one-half  feet  long,  the 
dome  measuring  four  hundred  and  forty-eight  feet 
in  height.  Its  statues,  ornaments,  and  paintings  are 
of  huge  proportions  and  great  elegance.  It  is  an 
assemblage  of  sanctuaries,  cenotaphs,  tombs,  paint- 
ings, shrines,  and  sculpture — all  to  be  seen  with 
one  sweep  of  the  eye.  We  rambled  from  sepul- 
cher to  monument,  from  mosaics  to  chapels,  from 
frescoes  to  inscriptions  to  popes  and  cardinals,  till 
we  grew  weary.  Then  resting  awhile  with  a con- 
gregation of  worshipers,  I tried  to  understand  the 
mass  that  was  celebrated  before  my  eyes  but  not 
within  reach  of  my  hearing. 


(223) 


EXTERIOR  OF  ST.  PETER  S*  ROME. 


Rome  and  Her  Art  Wealth.  223 

The  great  mosaics  of  the  dome  can  be  clearly 
seen  from  the  pavement  below.  The  four  evan- 
gelists are  in  reality  giants,  but  from  the  floor  do 
not  appear  so  immense  as  they  are.  The  text,  in 
Latin  on  gold  ground,  “Thou  art  Peter,  and  upon 
this  rock  I will  build  my  Church,  and  to  thee  will 
I give  the  keys  of  the  kingdom  of  heaven,”  is 
easily  read,  each  letter  being  six  feet  long. 

Some  of  the  best  work  of  Michael  Angelo,  Do- 
menichino,  and  Canova,  besides  copies  in  mosaic 
of  many  of  the  renowned  paintings  of  the  old  mas- 
ters, adorn  Saint  Peter’s. 

In  the  center  of  the  area  in  front  of  the  building 
is  the  celebrated  obelisk  in  red  granite,  brought  to 
Rome  from  Heliopolis,  the  Egyptian  “City  of  the 
Sun,”  almost  eighteen  hundred  years  ago.  When 
taken  to  Saint  Peter’s  three  hundred  years  ago, 
it  was  dedicated  to  the  cross,  the  ceremony  of 
exorcising  all  pagan  associations  being  first  per- 
formed. The  age  of  the  obelisk  is  not  certain — it 
may  date  back  to  the  Pyramids. 

The  Vatican,  the  residence  of  the  Pope,  adjoins 
Saint  Peter’s.  We  had  not  the  pleasure  of  an  au- 
dience with  his  Holiness,  but  we  saw  the  Sistine 
Chapel  and  Raphael’s  master-work.  I cannot 
write  of  all  in  these  wonderful  collections,  for  we 
had  not  time  for  study.  It  was  impossible  in  one 


224  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

short  day  to  comprehend  the  wonderful  frescoes 
and  paintings  of  the  Vatican.  What  I understood 
and  remember  I will  mention. 

Michael  Angelo’s  work  on  the  ceiling  of  the  Sis- 
tine  Chapel  is  considered  his  best.  Here  are  rep- 
resented some  of  the  events  of  the  Book  of  Gene- 
sis : the  creation  of  the  heavens  and  the  earth — 
viz.,  the  creation  of  light,  of  the  sun  and  moon; 
the  creation  of  trees,  herbs,  and  grass;  the  crea- 
tion of  Adam  and  Eve.  Next  are  represented  the 
fall  and  the  expulsion  from  Eden.  The  tree  of 
knowledge,  the  serpent,  Adam  and  Eve  plucking 
the  fruit,  the  angel  with  the  sword — all  are  there. 
Coming  after  are  pictures  in  the  life  of  Noah. 

On  the  curved  edges  of  the  ceiling  are  the 
prophets  and  sibyls  announcing  the  coming  Sav- 
iour of  the  world,  together  with  here  and  there  a 
little  picture  of  the  genealogy  of  the  Virgin. 

On  the  wall  at  the  end  of  the  Chapel  is  Michael 
Angelo’s  “ Last  Judgment.”  In  one  of  the  cen- 
ters is  seated  the  judge,  surrounded  by  apostles, 
patriarchs,  martyrs,  the  saints  on  earth  and  the 
saints  in  light.  The  other  half  shows  the  angels 
with  the  book  of  life,  angels  with  the  awakening 
trumpets,  the  resurrection,  the  ascension  to  the 
realms  of  the  blessed,  and  hell. 

I will  not  attempt  to  mention  the  frescoes  and 


Rome  and  Her  Art  Wealth . 225 

paintings  of  the  various  corridors.  Those  by  the 
masters  are  worthy  of  hours  of  study.  We  could 
but  glance  and  pass  on.  But  I must  refer  to 
Raphael’s  masterpiece,  “The  Transfiguration.” 
It  was  his  last  work,  and  is  the  greatest  picture  of 
the  world.  To  my  amateur  eye  the  power  of  this 
painting  is  in  the  face  of  our  Lord — though  the 
coloring,  especially  of  the  flesh,  is  very  beautiful. 
His  face  did  “shine  as  the  sun.”  Raphael  caught 
a radiant  expression — perhaps  the  highest  concep- 
tion of  the  glorified  face  ever  put  on  canvas.  Mo- 
ses and  Elijah  are  on  either  side,  all  in  mid-air  as 
though  about  to  rise  into  the  heavens  while  they 
hold  converse  of  what  is  soon  to  be  accomplished 
at  Jerusalem.  Peter,  James,  and  John  are  fallen 
on  the  ground,  sore  afraid. 

Beneath  them  is  the  child  possessed  of  a devil, 
whom  his  parents  brought  to  be  healed.  As  in 
the  Holy  Scriptures  the  devil  was  cast  out  as  soon 
as  the  Saviour  came  from  the  Mount  of  Transfigu- 
ration, so  in  this  great  painting  our  Lord  returned 
from  heavenly  converse  to  bear  its  sorrows  and  lift 
the  suffering  into  the  faith  of  the  Son  of  God. 

I have  looked  into  your  question,  as  to  the  rea- 
son for  placing  these  two  events  on  the  same  can- 
vas, and  find  in  Eaton’s  “ Rome”  that  it  was  done 
in  compliance  with  the  orders  of  his  patrons.  It 
15 


226  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

was  the  custom  of  the  age  to  connect  in  one  pict- 
ure celestial  and  terrestrial  subjects — oftentimes 
such  as  had  no  association. 

“The  Last  Communion  of  Saint  Jerome,”  by 
Domenichino,  is  considered  almost  equal  to  “The 
Transfiguration.”  The  dying  saint,  carried  by  his 
disciples,  is  placed  on  the  porch  of  the  monas- 
tery chapel:  his  head  rests  within  the  arms  of  a 
young  priest,  while  another  administers  the  sacra- 
ment. His  followers  are  about  the  aged  Jerome, 
while  above  are  the  angels  sent  to  convey  him  to 
heaven.  Both  of  these  works  are  copied  in  mo- 
saic in  Saint  Peter’s. 

The  Church  of  Saint  Pietro  in  Vincoli  holds, 
to  use  the  language  of  Hare,  “the  glory  of  the 
Church” — the  famous  “Moses”  of  Michael  An- 
gelo. It  is  the  “ masterpiece  of  sculpture  since  the 
time  of  the  Greeks.”  I am  without  language,  and 
accordingly  will  give  you  the  description  of  Gre- 
gorius: “The  figure  is  seated,  with  long-flowing 
beard  descending  to  the  waist,  with  horned  head, 
and  deep-sunk  eyes,  which  blaze  as  it  were  with 
the  light  of  the  burning  bush,  with  a majesty  of 
anger  which  makes  one  tremble,  as  of  a passion- 
ate being,  drunken  with  fire.  . . . There  is  some- 
thing infinite  which  lies  in  the  ‘Moses’  of  Michael 
Angelo.  Nor  is  his  countenance  softened  by 


ARCH  OF  TITUS. 


(227) 


Rome  and  Her  Art  Wealth.  227 

the  twilight  of  sadness  which  is  stealing  from  his 
forehead  over  his  eyes.  It  is  less  touching  than 
terrible.  The  Greeks  could  not  have  endured  a 
glance  from  such  as  ‘Moses,’  and  the  artist  would 
have  been  blamed  because  he  had  thrown  no  soft- 
ening touch  over  his  gigantic  marble.  That  which 
we  have  is  the  archetype  of  a terrible  and  quite 
unapproachable  sublimity.” 

The  Capitol — with  its  history,  halls,  and  corri- 
dors— might  occupy  days.  The  wonderful  bronze 
equestrian  statue  of  Marcus  Aurelius  is  spoken  of 
by  the  critics  as  without  fault.  The  Hall  of  the 
Emperors,  of  illustrious  men,  the  figures  of  the 
gods,  the  busts  and  bas-reliefs,  and  columns  and 
statues,  the  history  in  marble  and  fresco,  the 
bronzes  and  picture-gallery,  well  deserve  a full 
description — but  I must  hasten. 

There  are  no  ruins  more  full  of  interest  than  the 
Roman  Forum.  It  was  buried  under  the  rubbish 
of  centuries,  but  the  excavations  of  the  last  three 
hundred  years  give  inexhaustible  occupation  to 
the  student.  Here  the  destiny  of  empires  was  de- 
cided, the  Senate  sat  in  solemn  assembly,  and  the 
business  of  ancient  Rome  was  transacted — here 
was  the  market-place,  and  here  were  held  all  the 
public  meetings.  “The  level  of  the  ancient  soil 
was  twenty-four  feet  below  that  of  to-day.”  The 


228  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

accumulation  of  each  era  in  Roman  history  buried 
the  buildings  of  the  preceding  period,  so  that  the 
excavations  of  the  future  will  doubtless  uncover 
“heaped-up  ruins,”  bringing  to  the  light  temples, 
monuments,  columns,  fountains,  corridors,  and  stat- 
ues. To-day  are  shown  the  places  where  sacrifices 
to  the  gods  were  made ; the  house  of  the  Vestals 
and  the  Temple  of  Vesta,  on  whose  altar  was  kept 
burning  the  sacred  fire ; the  chambers  where 
many  a struggle  in  the  Senate  started  the  Roman 
army  to  conquest  and  death;  and  arches  and  col- 
umns erected  in  honor  of  heroes  returning  from 
victory.  The  Arch  of  Titus  erected  by  the  Senate 
in  commemoration  of  his  capture  of  Jerusalem,  a 
few  years  after  the  life  of  Christ  on  earth,  must 
have  been  a magnificent  monument.  The  bas- 
relief  of  the  seven-branched  candlestick  from  the 
temple  at  Jerusalem  is  still  very  distinct. 

The  Colosseum  is  the  most  imposing  of  the 
Roman  ruins.  It  was  the  great  amphitheater  in 
whose  arena  the  gladiatorial  combats  took  place, 
and  also  where  prisoners  of  war,  the  slaves  of 
Roman  conquest,  and  Christian  martyrs  were  giv- 
en to  the  wild  beasts.  The  Colosseum  was  begun 
A.D.  72,  and  finished  by  Titus  after  his  success- 
ful siege  of  Jerusalem.  He  compelled  twelve  thou- 
sand captive  Jews  to  complete  the  building.  It 


TIIE  COLOSSEUM  AS  IT  NOW  STANDS. 


Rome  and  Her  Art  Wealth.  229 

was  capable  of  holding  one  hundred  thousand 
people. 

We  will  leave  Rome  to-night.  I have  had  but  a 
glance,  and  consequently  could  only  write  this  short 
letter.  Every  thing  has  been  in  our  favor,  and 
we  have  not  lost  an  hour.  I will  not  forget  the 
“Eternal  City.”  But  I am  traveling  to  another 
— the  city  of  my  God,  the  city  that  hath  founda- 
tions, the  New  Jerusalem,  the  Eternal  City!  Here 
I am  “a  stranger,  a sojourner;  ” there  I shall  be 
at  home. 


LETTER  XIX. 


FROM  ROME  TO  PARIS— SPLENDORS  AND  MISERIES  OF  THE 
FRENCH  CAPITAL. 

Paris,  February  18,  1SS9. 

NTIL  we  came  to  Brindisi,  the  weather  was 


all  that  we  could  have  desired.  The  sharp, 
chill  air  in  which  we  left  Shanghai  soon  softened 
into  clear,  mellow  sunshine,  and  by  the  time  we 
came  to  Hong-kong  the  threat  of  winter  had  passed 
and  left  anticipations  of  tropical  weather.  Warmer 
and  brighter  grew  the  days  as  we  sailed  on  through 
the  southern  seas,  until  at  Singapore  we  began  to 
realize  that  the  equator  was  not  far  distant.  Then 
beneath  cloudless  skies  and  glaring  sun  we  sailed 
slowly  on  to  Ceylon.  From  there  to  Calcutta  the 
heat  was  in  some  measure  moderated ; and  in  North- 
ern India  the  nights  were  cool,  and  at  times  a fire 
was  comforting.  Temperature  in  the  Red  Sea, 
pleasant;  and  across  the  Mediterranean,  delightful. 

At  Brindisi  we  begin  a new  phase  of  experience 
more  like  home.  Rain  and  chill  to  Naples,  with  a 
short  break  in  the  gray  monotony  of  the  clouds  as 
we  passed  along  the  edge  of  the  bay,  just  before 
coming  to  the  city,  and  enough  sunlight  to  give  us 
one  of  the  most  perfect  rainbows  I ever  saw.  It 


(230) 


A Fair  View  of  Paris.  231 

was  a complete  semicircle,  one  end  dipping  into 
the  waters  of  the  bay,  the  other  touching  the  sides 
of  the  hills  to  the  north  of  us.  The  colors  were 
pronounced  and  distinct,  a gorgeous  display.  Cold 
and  cloudy  with  occasional  rains  in  Rome.  The 
night  we  left  the  “Eternal  City”  came  with  a chill, 
damp  atmosphere  which  turned  into  snow  as  we  ran 
up  to  the  mountains.  How  bitterly  cold  it  was ! 
The  poor  excuse  for  heating  apparatus — cylinders 
of  hot  water  on  the  floor  exchanged  once  in  three, 
four,  five  hours — with  which  the  cars  were  fur- 
nished soon  failed  us.  Fortunately,  I had  pur- 
chased in  Rome  a pair  of  fur-lined  overshoes  that 
kept  my  feet  comfortable ; but  my  rugs  and  cloth- 
ing were  altogether  insufficient  in  that  icy  air  of 
the  mountains.  I was  chilled  through.  After 
shivering  through  half  the  night,  your  father  called 
me  to  him,  and  uniting  our  wraps  we  sat  closely 
side  by  side,  and  thus  managed  to  lessen  the  dis- 
comfort. Reaching  Paris  in  the  early  morning, 
the  first  thing  we  called  for  was  fire,  and  I sup- 
pose travelers  in  a southern  clime  rarely  enjoyed 
the  sight  of  the  flames  more  than  we  did. 

It  has  been  variable  weather  since  we  have  been 
in  Paris,  but  we  have  not  been  hindered  by  it  in 
any  great  measure. 

We  have  had  a fair  view  of  the  city.  We  have 


232  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

strolled  along  its  boulevards  and  through  its  parks, 
have  visited  its  churches  and  museums,  and  have 
looked  into  its  stores.  After  seeing  so  much  I do 
not  wonder  that  it  is  attractive  to  visitors  from  every 
part  of  the  world.  It  appeals  to  every  taste  and 
makes  ample  provision  for  every  side  of  our  nat- 
ure except  the  spiritual. 

The  reign  of  Louis  Napoleon  was  chiefly  re- 
markable for  its  enormous  expenditures  in  build- 
ings and  adornments.  Boulevards  were  opened; 
architectural  splendors,  statuary,  and  street  decora- 
tions sated  the  eye,  while  they  made  factitious  pro- 
vision for  the  working  classes.  An  era  of  unex- 
ampled wealth  and  culture  was  promised.  Bis- 
marck and  Von  Moltke  and  Sedan  broke  the 
promise,  and  left  a disappointed,  hungry,  angry 
crowd  to  wreak  a fruitless  vengeance  upon  the 
memorials  of  an  ostentatious  empire,  which  had 
mocked  and  cheated  them.  The  reign  of  com- 
munism was  happily  brief — too  brief  for  the  con- 
summation of  the  plans  of  its  blind  rage. 

I suppose  that  those  who  knew  Paris  in  the  time 
of  the  last  Napoleon  will  still  recognize  the  plans 
and  work  of  that  period  of  gilded  prosperity.  The 
beauty  of  the  city  has  not  been  destroyed.  The 
Tuileries  is  a ruin,  but  the  boulevards  remain; 
the  Place  de  la  Concorde  still  offers  its  obelisk, 


A Fair  View  of  Paris.  233 

fountains,  statues,  and  fine  views  along  shady  ave- 
nues; the  Champs  Elysees  is  still  a delightful 
promenade,  the  favorite  walk  of  the  Parisian 
world.  It  is  difficult  to  connect  the  tragic  events 
of  the  Revolution  with  so  bright  and  charming  a 
scene,  but  here  in  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  the 
scaffold  of  the  Reign  of  Terror  was  set,  and  nearly 
three  thousand  people  fell  under  the  hand  of  the 
executioner.  Louis  XVI.  was  among  the  first  of 
them. 

To  one  side  of  the  Champs  Elysees  is  the  Palais 
d’lndustrie — an  extensive  building,  with  but  little 
beauty — erected  for  the  Great  Exhibition  of  1855, 
and  since  used  for  the  annual  display  of  painting 
and  sculpture.  On  the  other  side  of  the  river, 
reached  by  a bridge  from  the  Champs  Elysees,  are 
the  Exposition  Grounds  with  unfinished  buildings. 
We  walked  through  them  and  saw  the  extensive 
preparation  for  the  coming  gathering  in  May.  We 
looked  at  the  Eiffel  Tower,  one  thousand  feet 
high,  and  I wished  that  I could  have  the  view  from 
the  summit.  Turning  back  to  the  city,  we  came  to 
the  Church  of  the  Madeleine.  N.  has  seen  it, 
and  knows  its  classic  structure.  It  is  surprising 
to  our  plain  American  mind  that  one  church  should 
show  such  lavish  expenditure  of  art  and  wealth  in 
its  adornment.  We  were  there  again  on  Sunday 


234  Letters  f rom  the  Orient. 

in  the  middle  of  the  day,  and  found  a multitude  of 
people  attending  the  service.  We  missed  the  mu- 
sic, but  the  ritual  and  preaching  were  calculated 
to  impress  the  popular  mind. 

The  finest  church  in  Paris — the  old  historic 
church — is  Notre  Dame.  The  present  building, 
upon  the  site  of  what  was  probably  a pagan  temple, 
dates  back  to  1163.  It  has  passed  through  many 
changes — was  restored  after  1845,  and  again  nar- 
rowly escaped  destruction  under  the  Commune  in 
1870.  It  is  a magnificent  specimen  of  Gothic 
architecture,  dimly  lighted  within  through  superb 
stained  glass,  decorated  with  frescoes,  statuary, 
carving,  and  tapestries,  and  possessing  still  many 
“treasures”  in  the  shape  of  relics  which  escaped 
the  fury  of  the  mob.  Napoleon  I.  and  Josephine 
Were  crowned  here  with  a splendor  of  ceremony 
that  cost  about  seventeen  million  dollars;  and  here 
in  1853  Napoleon  III.  was  married  to  Comtesse 
Eugenie  de  Teba. 

It  is  more  than  we  can  undertake  to  look  up  the 
churches  of  Paris,  though  many  are  of  sufficient 
interest  to  justify  a visit.  Our  time  is  too  short. 
We  cannot  go  into  details.  The  Louvre  occupied 
us  some  hours.  It  was  first  a fortress,  then  a 
prison,  afterward  a palace,  now  a museum.  The 
fortress  was  built  in  1200  A.D. ; the  palace  had  its 


235 


A Fair  View  of  Paris. 

beginning  in  1541,  and  its  completion,  in  connec- 
tion with  the  Tuileries,  under  the  third  Napoleon 
in  1857.  The  collection  of  pictures  began  in  the 
time  of  Francis  I.  The  great  Napoleon  rifled  the 
galleries  and  palaces  of  Italy,  and  brought  in  such 
an  enormous  mass  of  works  of  art  that  even  the 
immense  galleries  of  the  Louvre  could  not  con- 
tain them.  The  most  of  these  were  restored  to 
their  rightful  owners  in  1815.  The  bulk  of  the 
present  collection  has  been  acquired  by  legitimate 
methods.  It  is  a wonderful  array.  Ancient  and 
modern  drawings,  engravings,  paintings,  sculpt- 
ure of  every  nation  and  every  school ; antiquities — 
Assyrian,  Egyptian,  Etruscan,  and  Greek;  scien- 
tific museums,  specimens  from  every  quarter  of 
the  globe,  in  salons  and  corridors  of  ground  floor 
and  upper  stories  of  the  main  building  and  wings, 
bewilder  by  their  number  and  extent  of  space. 
Among  the  Egyptian  remains  I saw  a sphinx,  the 
hieroglyphics  on  which  tell  of  Menephtah,  the 
Pharaoh  of  the  exodus. 

Not  far  from  the  Louvre  is  the  Magasins  de 
Louvre,  which  is  one  of  the  two  great  resorts  of 
shoppers  in  Paris — the  Bon  Marche  being  the  oth- 
er. They  are  immense  store-houses  of  goods  of 
all  sorts,  sold  at  retail  prices.  They  are  marvels 
of  order  and  cheapness.  I found  a more  attractive 


236 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

place  in  Rue  Madeleine,  where  a glib,  English- 
speaking  salesman  beguiled  me  into  a larger  out- 
lay than  I had  purposed,  and  was  trustful  enough 
to  take  your  father’s  check  on  a Baltimore  bank 
for  the  payment  of  the  bill. 

Time  would  fail  me  to  tell  of  the  superb  build- 
ings— such  as  the  Grand  Hotel,  the  Hotel  Louvre, 
the  Grand  Opera-house — the  stores  with  their  tak- 
ing display  of  goods  of  every  sort,  the  cafes,  and 
of  the  boulevards,  the  monuments — the  innumer- 
able appeals  to  the  senses  in  which  Paris  abounds. 
A rich  city,  beautiful,  gay,  frivolous,  godless,  rest- 
less, welcoming  alike  a festival  or  a revolution, 
holding  large  resources  for  any  possibilities  of 
good  and  evil.  It  has  more  than  once  been  be- 
sieged and  captured,  and  it  may  yet  again  fall  into 
the  hands  of  a foreign  foe.  The  powers  of  attack 
and  defense  are  singularly  balanced  in  these  days 
of  dynamite.  “Except  the  Lord  keep  the  city, 
the  watchman  waketh  but  in  vain.”  There  is  not 
much  confidence  in  the  “Rock  of  our  strength” 
in  the  careless,  prayerless,  pleasure-loving  capital. 
Yet  there  are  to  be  found  true  and  good  men  and 
women  who  are  striving  faithfully  to  inculcate  the 
knowledge  of  God  and  gather  to  him  a peculiar 
people.  Protestantism  has  established  itself  here, 
and  is  “holding  forth  the  word  of  life,”  the  anti- 


A Fair  View  of  Paris.  237 

dote  to  Romanism  and  infidelity.  The  Wesleyan 
Church  and  the  McAll  Mission  have  established 
posts  in  various  parts  of  the  city.  They  are  not 
laboring  in  vain.  We,  who  know  the  power  of 
the  gospel,  have  good  hope  that  in  years  to  come 
Paris  even  may  become  a stronghold  of  the  Son 
of  God. 

I had  some  amusing  experiences  resulting  from 
my  ignorance  of  the  language.  I had  a slight 
knowledge  of  French  as  taught  in  the  schools  of 
my  day;  but  when  it  became  necessary  to  make 
use  of  my  attainments  I was  not  long  in  discover- 
ing, what  I had  before  suspected,  that  it  was  not 
current  here.  The  artiste  whom  I consulted  about 
a new  costume  is  a true  Parisian  from  the  tip  of 
her  toes  to  the  tip  of  her  tongue.  She  knew  noth- 
ing else.  Not  a word  of  English  could  she  speak. 
We  met  each  other  with  graceful  salaams  and  the 
conventional  “ Bon  jour.”  Then  the  serious  busi- 
ness began.  I talked  and  she  listened.  Then  "she 
talked  and  I listened.  Then  we  both  smiled  aloud. 
We  tried  it  again  with  no  better  success.  Her 
French  was  not  my  French,  nor  was  my  French 
her  French;  nor  could  either  be  translated  into 
the  other.  We  tried  pantomime.  That  went  a lit- 
tle way,  but  not  far  enough.  Finally  she  sent  for 
a neighbor,  an  American  dentist,  resident  in  Paris 


238  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

for  twenty  years,  who  good-naturedly  served  us  as 
interpreter.  Through  him  we  discussed,  for  an 
hour,  quantity,  quality,  styles,  prices,  and  all  the 
other  details,  and  were  mutually  gratified  that  we 
had  conducted  our  business  to  such  favorable 
results.  “ Tres  jolif  said  madam;  “ Tres  joli,” 
replied  I.  “Parfaitement,”  she  concluded ; “ Par - 
faitement ,”  answered  I.  And  our  agreement  was 
completed. 

Bon  soir,  my  dears. 


CRYSTAL  PALACE,  LONDON. 


LETTER  XX. 


ACROSS  THE  CHANNEL— TAKING  IN  THE  WONDERS  OF 
LONDON,  THE  WORLD'S  GREATEST  CITY. 

London,  February  22,  1889. 

ROM  Calais  to  Dover  I expected  to  be  sea- 


sick, because  so  few  persons  escape  in  that 


chopping  sea:  however,  I was  free,  and  could  have 
enjoyed  it  very  much  but  for  the  extreme  cold. 

We  arrived  in  London  at  the  Charing  Cross  Sta- 
tion late  in  the  day.  Hare  says  the  name  Charing 
comes  from  a Saxon  word  meaning  to  hern,  both 
the  road  and  the  Thames  making  a bend  at  this 
point.  There  is  frequently  a history  connected 
with  London  names  which  interests  me  greatly. 
Six  hundred  years  ago  this  spot  was  one  of  the 
nine  resting-places  of  the  funeral  cortege  of  Queen 
Eleanor,  the  beloved  wife  of  Edward  I.  A de- 
voted love  existed  between  husband  and  wife. 
After  her  burial  in  Westminster  Abbey,  he  erected 
at  each  of  these  stations  a cross,  that  at  Charing 
being  the  most  imposing — hence  the  name  Char- 
ing Cross.  But  three  of  the  crosses  remain.  That 
at  this  place  was  destroyed  by  the  Puritans,  a poem 
of  that  day  showing  the  hatred  of  the  sect  toward 
all  images.  As  the  destruction  occurred  during 


(239) 


240  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

the  Commonwealth,  I suppose  their  hatred  of  the 
crown  and  throne  entered  into  the  act.  A substi- 
tute has  been  erected  which  every  traveler  sees  on 
arriving  at  the  station. 

From  here,  parallel  with  the  Thames,  is  the 
Strand,  the  great  thoroughfare,  a highway  crowd- 
ed with  people  and  business.  I have  seen  it  stated 
that  a million  of  people  daily  throng  this  street. 
Farther  up  (or  down?)  in  the  city  was  Temple 
Bar,  which  from  1300  to  1878  marked  the  city 
bounds.  Here  were  kept  on  exhibition  the  heads 
of  those  who  were  executed  for  alleged  treason. 
A pillar  now  marks  the  Bar.  Near  by  are  the 
Inns  of  Court,  which  have  been  for  hundreds  of 
years  the  “sanctum”  of  the  law  and  lawyers. 

As  the  Strand  is  the  high-road  of  London,  so 
Pall-mall  is  the  fashionable  street,  where  one  may 
see  the  people  of  leisure,  perhaps  of  rank;  and 
Hyde  Park  is  the  recreation-ground  for  the  city. 
Yesterday,  when  we  drove  there,  it  was  green  and 
beautiful  as  though  in  the  midst  of  April  showers 
and  sunshine.  The  Memorial  to  the  Prince  Con- 
sort represents  the  British  Dominions,  on  which 
the  sun  never  sets — a contrast  to  this  costly  monu- 
ment upon  which  the  sun  seldom  shines,  London 
fogs  mostly  intervening.  Thousands  of  pounds . 
were  spent  upon  it.  Prince  Albert  is  seated  under 


(241) 


ST.  PAUL’S  CATHEDRAL, 


241 


The  Wonders  of  London. 

a richly  decorated,  gaudy  canopy,  which  rests  on 
a marble  base,  the  whole  upon  a platform  of  gran- 
ite. The  sides  are  adorned  with  sculptured  figures 
of  the  leading  sages  and  literati  of  the  ages.  At 
the  corners  of  the  platform  stand  the  men,  ani- 
mals, and  plants,  in  marble,  of  the  four  continents. 
It  is  a costly  memorial,  though  its  good  taste  is 
questioned — certainly  the  Prince  has  a better  re- 
membrancer in  the  hearts  of  the  English  people. 

The  Cathedral  of  Saint  Paul’s  is  in  the  heart  of 
London.  Centuries  ago  kings,  queens,  canons, 
bishops,  the  learned  and  great,  worshiped  within 
its  walls.  Five  times  Saint  Paul  has  been  burned, 
three  times  by  lightning.  Sir  Christopher  Wren 
was  the  architect  of  the  present  building.  Over 
one  of  the  porticos  is  the  figure  of  a phenix,  in 
order  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  a curious  fact. 
When  Sir  Christopher  had  drawn  his  plans  and 
was  ready  to  commence  work  on  the  new  build- 
ing, he  sent  a workman  for  a stone  from  the  rub- 
bish of  the  old  structure  to  mark  the  center  of  the 
dome.  On  the  stone  brought  him  was  inscribed 
the  single  word  Resurgam — “I  shall  rise  again.” 
So  from  the  ashes  of  the  dead  past  have  come  up 
the  grand  proportions  of  the  present  stately  build- 
ing, hardly  second  to  Westminster  Abbey  in  the 
affection  and  pride  of  the  English  people. 

16 


242  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

The  great  cathedral  is  no  fit  subject  for  my  pen. 
Its  dimensions  are  less  than  those  of  Saint  Peter’s 
at  Rome,  nor  can  it  rival  the  church  of  the  Eternal 
City  in  the  wealth  of  its  monuments  and  splendors. 
But  standing  in  the  heart  of  grimy  London,  black- 
ened by  the  smoke  and  fog  of  the  world’s  greatest 
city,  enriched  with  the  dust  and  the  memorials  of 
the  illustrious  dead  of  the  imperial  race,  which  has 
planted  itself  the  world  over,  it  is  a perpetual  re- 
minder of  God  and  his  providence,  and  awes  into 
solemnity  the  busy,  bustling  throngs  that  pass  un- 
der its  shadow. 

The  earliest  monuments  in  the  present  cathedral 
are  those  of  Howard,  the  philanthropist;  Johnson, 
the  literary  autocrat  of  his  time;  Sir  Joshua  Rey- 
nolds, the  painter;  and  Sir  William  Jones,  the 
Oriental  scholar  and  statesman.  Later,  come  the 
splendid  monuments  to  Lord  Nelson,  who  was 
buried  here  in  spite  of  his  memorable  cry,  “Vic- 
tory or  Westminster  Abbey;”  and  to  Arthur, 
Duke  of  Wellington ; and  later  still  that  of  the 
Christian  hero  and  soldier  who  died  at  Khartoum, 
but  will  be  known  in  the  years  to  come,  as  in  the 
past,  by  the  name  of  “Chinese  Gordon.”  The 
building  stands  on  an  elevated  level  almost  facing 
Ludgate  Hill,  with  the  narrow  streets  of  Saint 
Paul’s  church-yard  running  around  it,  and  in  front 


(243) 


WESTMINSTER  ABBEY, 


The  Wonders  of  London.  243 

a statue  of  Queen  Anne,  who  made  nere  her 
thanksgivings  for  Marlborough’s  victory. 

But  Westminster  Abbey  is  the  receptacle  of  the 
memorials  of  England’s  greatness.  It  would  take  a 
volume  to  register  the  names  of  the  dead  who  on 
native  or  foreign  soil  have  wrought  themselves  into 
the  history  of  their  country.  They  were  laid  to  rest 
eight,  six,  five,  one  hundred  years  ago,  and  have 
slept  through  the  centuries,  while  the  world  has 
been  busy  with  those  who  came  after,  who  in  turn 
have  taken  their  places  among  the  shadows.  The 
very  inscriptions  upon  the  tombs  tell  the  history  of 
England,  and  one  familiar  with  its  pages  could 
well  fill  days  with  the  study  of  Westminster. 

The  first  building  on  this  site  was  dedicated 
early  in  the  seventh  century.  An  historian  whom 
Hare  quotes  tells  that  on  a Sunday  night,  the  eve 
of  the  day  that  this  church  was  to  be  consecrated, 
a fisherman  was  watching  his  nets  near  by.  On 
the  opposite  shore  he  saw  a light,  and  going  over 
found  an  old  man  who  asked  to  be  ferried  across. 
Upon  their  arrival  the  stranger  went  at  once  to  the 
church,  causing  two  springs  to  rise  up  on  the  way 
by  a blow  of  his  staff.  A host  of  angels  appeared, 
some  having  candles  in  their  hands  which  lighted 
him  while  he  performed  the  service  of  dedication, 
others  ascending  and  descending  as  in  Jacob’s 


244  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

vision.  While  the  fisherman  ferried  the  old  man 
back,  he  was  charged  to  tell  the  bishop  of  this 
consecration,  and  was  promised  a continual  boun- 
tiful supply  of  fish  if  he  would  always  give  a tithe 
to  the  new  Westminster.  The  bishop  did  not 
doubt  the  story,  for  were  not  the  chrism,  the  marks 
of  the  cross  on  the  door,  and  the  droppings  from 
the  candle  all  there? 

That  building  was  afterward  torn  down — and 
from  time  to  time  changes  were  made,  till  but  lit- 
tle is  left  of  the  Abbey  which  was  finished  in  1272. 
A portion  remains — viz.,  the  side  aisles  and  their 
chapels,  and  the  choir  and  transepts.  Of  course 
I could  not  know  Westminster  in  two  visits,  but  I 
would  not  lose  the  picture  from  my  thoughts. 
The  beauty  of  the  architecture,  the  choir,  the 
chapels  where  lie  the  dead,  the  monuments  which 
crowd  the  transepts  and  nave,  and  the  cloisters, 
live  in  my  memory,  while  the  inscriptions  and 
names  I have  forgotten.  If  I should  have  the 
pleasure  of  another  visit,  I will  study  details,  and 
with  my  own  hand  write  you  what  at  present  you 
must  read  in  the  books.  This  much  I say:  The 
marble  and  the  words  dedicated  to  kings,  poets, 
historians — the  men  wh»  have  ruled,  lived,  and 
died  for  England;  the  men  who  have  built  up  its 
fortunes,  and  shaped  its  religious  beliefs,  and  or- 


(245) 


somerset  house. 


The  Wonders  of  London . 245 

dered  its  destinies — have  inspired  in  me  the  most 
solemn  reflections,  and  I pray  that  my  name  may 
be  kept  in  the  “Lamb’s  Book  of  Life.” 

It  was  something  of  a surprise  to  find  in  this 
highest  expression  of  loyalty  to  regal  rule  the 
tomb  of  some  members  of  Cromwell’s  family.  Of 
two  other  things  I will  make  special  mention. 
One  is  the  Coronation  Chair,  on  which  every 
ruler  of  Great  Britain  since  Edward  I.  has  been 
crowmed — a period  of  six  hundred  years.  The 
legend  of  the  stone  seat  is  quite  thrilling.  It  is  a 
chronicle  coming  down  from  patriarchal  days. 
To  make  a long  story  short,  it  was  the  pillow  upon 
which  Jacob  slept  when  he  had  the  vision  of  the 
angels  on  the  ladder  that  reached  to  heaven.  He 
took  it  to  Egypt  when  he  went  down  to  Joseph, 
and  for  many  years  it  was  preserved  among  the 
Hebrews.  Unfortunately  the  story  is  disjointed, 
and  I do  not  find  why  the  precious  relic  was  al- 
lowed to  pass  from  Israel’s  possession.  After 
many  vicissitudes  it  was  miraculously  conveyed 
aboard  a boat  bound  for  Ireland,  where,  some  of 
the  antiquaries  maintain,  it  remains.  Others  of 
the  wise  trace  its  transit  to  Scotland,  where  the 
first  Edward  was  crowned  upon  it.  It  was  brought 
to  England  in  1296,  and  can  be  seen  in  Westmin- 
ster any  day. 


246 


Letters  from  the  Orient. 

The  monument  to  John  and  Charles  Wesley  at- 
tracts the  attention  of  all  Methodist  tourists.  It 
was  unveiled  in  1876  by  the  Very  Rev.  Dr.  Stan- 
ley, Dean  of  Westminster.  The  upper  part  of  the 
tablet  records  the  dates  of  birth  and  death  of  the 
two  brothers.  Under  that  are  their  medallion  pro- 
files, life  size,  under  which  are  the  words,  “The 
best  of  all  is,  God  is  with  us.”  Below  that,  John 
Wesley  stands  upon  his  father’s  grave  preaching 
— his  own  and  the  fifty  figures  representing  his 
hearers  are  boldly  defined.  Wesley  clad  in  a 
gown  and  bands,  one  hand  clasping  his  Bible,  the 
other  uplifted,  is  a beautiful  design.  Under  this  pul- 
pit in  Epworth  grave-yard  is  inscribed  the  words, 
“I  look  on  all  the  world  as  my  parish;  ” and  un- 
der that,  “God  buries  his  workmen,  but  carries 
on  his  work.”  It  is  an  exquisite  piece  of  marble. 

The  Tower,  the  great  English  fortress,  dates  far 
back.  For  some  hundreds  of  years  the  kings  re- 
sided there  during  a part  of  the  year,  and  within 
its  walls  rulers  were  born,  lived,  and  died.  Mon- 
archs  have  languished  in  its  prisons;  princes  have 
there  been  murdered ; cardinals,  archbishops, 
lords,  ladies,  and  commoners  were  there  confined 
and  executed. 

The  Beauchamp  Tower,  where  so  many  illus- 
trious prisoners  were  incarcerated,  was  interesting 


(247) 


i 


The  Wonders  of  London.  247 

to  us  because  the  walls  bear  to  this  day  many  in- 
scriptions from  their  own  hands;  some  indicating 
suffering,  others  trust  in  God.  Near  this  tower, 
in  the  court  inclosed  by  the  fortress,  is  a large 
stone,  which  marks  the  spot  of  the  many  execu- 
tions; where  the  beautiful  Anne  Boleyn  and  the 
youthful  Queen  Catharine  Howard — both  wives 
of  that  brute,  Henry  VIII. — lost  their  lives;  and 
where  also  the  lovely  Lady  Jane  Grey,  “the  queen 
of  nine  days,”  came  to  her  death. 

Of  course  the  Jewel  Tower  was  not  omitted. 
The  crown  jewels,  the  state  crowns,  the  royal 
plate,  the  silver  font  used  at  the  baptisms  of  the 
royal  children,  the  badges  of  authority,  the  gold- 
en eagle  which  holds  the  consecrated  oil  of  the 
coronations,  and  other  valuable  articles,  make  a 
magnificent  show.  Three  million  pounds  sterling 
are  there  represented.  Another  tower  is  occupied 
by  the  fine  collection  of  historic  armor,  which  is 
more  enjoyed  in  the  seeing  than  in  the  reading. 

The  entire  world  is  represented  in  the  British 
Museum.  Such  a collection  I never  saw,  though 
in  our  journeying  we  have  seen  a great  deal  there 
exhibited.  Antiquarians  find  a paradise  within 
those  four  walls,  and  amateur  as  I am  I should 
have  found  great  enjoyment  in  a week’s  tour  of 
the  halls.  The  oldest  cuneiform  inscriptions  have 


2-18  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

been  stored  in  the  British  Museum— some  from 
Assyria,  from  Babylon,  from  Chaldea;  some 
reaching  back  to  Adam’s  time.  It  is  said  that 
there  is  one  proved  to  be  anterior  to  Adam’s  day, 
which  we  searched  for,  but  failed  to  find.  The 
Roman  Gallery,  the  Mausoleum  Room,  the  Hel- 
lenic Room,  are  all  of  great  value.  Of  more  inter- 
est to  me  were  the  specimens  of  the  earliest  print- 
ing and  illustrations  of  the  illuminated  texts  of  the 
monks  of  long  ago;  and  in  the  Manuscript  Saloon, 
the  prayer-book  used  by  Lady  Jane  Grey  on  the 
scaffold,  the  draft  of  the  will  of  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots,  and  the  agreement  signed  by  Milton  for  the 
sale  of  “Paradise  Lost” — an  Eden  of  antiquities! 

Being  Methodists,  of  course  we  went  to  City 
Road  Chapel,  which  is  of  historic  interest  in  our 
annals.  John  Wesley,  our  revered  founder,  lies 
buried  in  this  church-yard,  beneath  a monument 
in  stone;  besides,  within  the  communion-rails  of 
the  chapel  is  a marble  tablet  to  his  memory.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  road  is  the  cemetery  of 
Bunhill  Fields,  where  are  buried  John  Bunyan, 
Susanna  Wesley,  Dr.  Isaac  Watts,  three  sons  of 
Oliver  Cromwell  (one  of  whom  was  successor  to 
his  father  for  a few  days),  and  Daniel  De  Foe, 
author  of  “Robinson  Crusoe:  ” these  monuments 
only,  of  the  man)’  in  the  cemetery,  will  interest  you. 


OLD  KING  S CASTLE. 


249 


The  Wonders  of  London. 

I plucked  a few  blades  of  grass  as  memorials  of 
these  names.  We  could  but  pronounce  ludicrous 
the  following  inscription  on  the  stone  of  Dame 
Mary  Page,  who  “in  67  months  was  tapped  66 
times,  and  had  taken  away  240  gallons  of  water, 
without  ever  repining  at  her  case,  or  ever  fearing 
the  operation.”  I copied  it  on  the  spot,  and  send 
it  to  you  word  for  word. 

We  found  the  Dore  Gallery  worth  the  time  we 
gave  it.  The  “Christ  Leaving  the  Pretorium  ” is 
considered  a marvelous  picture.  The  beauty  of 
the  face  is  celestial.  He  walks  down  the  steep 
stair-way  with  gentle  and  majestic  mien,  knowing 
that  the  cross  is  before  him.  Pontius  Pilate  and 
Herod,  in  robes  of  state,  are  in  the  background; 
near  by  are  the  high-priests  Annas  and  Caiaphas. 
In  front  is  the  mob  with  lifted  hands  and  open 
mouths,  as  though  crying  aloud,  “Crucify  him! 
Crucify  him!”  Mary,  the  mother  of  Jesus,  with 
tearful  eye,  and  the  Magdalene  are  not  far  off. 
Dore  studied  the  evangelists,  and  besides  must 
have  learned  the  meaning  of  every  word  that  Isaiah 
wrote  of  redemption’s  story.  “He  is  despised 
and  rejected  of  men;  a man  of  sorrows,  and 
acquainted  with  grief.  He  was  wounded  for  our 
transgressions,  he  was  bruised  for  our  iniquities: 
the  chastisement  of  our  peace  was  upon  him ; and 


250  Letters  from  the  Orient. 

with  his  stripes  we  are  healed.”  “Who  for  the 
joy  that  was  set  before  him  endured  the  cross,  de- 
spising the  shame.” 

The  “Vale  of  Tears,”  Dore’s  last  work,  was 
in  another  room.  In  my  mind  the  two  pictures 
are  connected.  The  horror  was  borne  to  save  a 
world.  The  cross  and  the  shame  were  not  to  be 
compared  with  the  “joy  that  was  set  before  him.” 
Jesus  trod  “ the  wine-press  alone;”  “in  all  their 
afflictions  he  was  afflicted:  in  his  love  and  in  his 
pity  he  redeemed  them.”  Now,  in  the  Vale  of 
Tears,  he  bears  in  his  heart  all  them  who  turn  to 
him.  To  every  soul  he  speaks:  “Come  unto  me, 
all  ye  that  labor  and  are  heavy-laden,  and  I will 
give  you  rest.”  These  words  Dore  illustrates  on 
canvas.  At  the  entrance  to  the  Vale  of  Tears 
stands  the  Saviour,  bearing  a cross — the  cross  on 
which  he  was  lifted  that  he  might  draw  all  men 
unto  himself — the  cross  that  was  to  raise  earth  to 
heaven.  Above  him,  stretching  from  horizon  to 
horizon,  is  the  bow,  the  “token  of  the  covenant.” 
With  upraised  hand  he  beckons  “the  weary  and 
heavy-laden.”  And  there  they  are,  some  lifting 
their  heavy  eyes  to  him,  and  some  turning  still  to 
earth,  whence  came  their  sorrow.  There  they 
stand — king,  priest,  warrior,  the  old  and  young, 
rich  and  poor,  prince  and  beggar — all  alike  need- 


251 


The  Wonders  of  London. 

ing  him.  The  dying  mother  lifts  her  helpless  babe 
toward  those  loving  arms,  the  deaf  hear  his  voice, 
the  blind  eyes  behold  him,  and  the  outcast  leper 
finds  One  who  will  not  shrink  from  his  touch. 
These  pictures  produce  the  same  effect  as  Charles 
Wesley’s  hymns. 


LETTER  XXL 


END  OF  THE  JOURNEY— FROM  LIVERPOOL  TO  NEW  YORK. 


E are  now,  my  dear  daughters,  at  the  last 


stage  of  our  long  journey.  One  more  step 
— you  will  think  it  is  a long  one — and  we  shall  land 
in  New  York.  Dark-looking  Liverpool  is  even 
more  somber  in  this  pouring  rain.  I can  see  but 
little  of  it.  But  have  I not  seen  enough?  The 
eye  is  filled  with  seeing.  I wonder,  as  I look  back 
over  the  way  by  which  we  have  come.  From  the 
farthest  point  eastward,  where  sunrise  and  sunset 
are  confounded  in  the  common  thought,  to  this  ex- 
treme western  edge  of  the  Old  World,  we  have  come 
in  safety  and  comfort.  The  facilities  of  travel  are 
enough  to  excite  admiration ; but  better  even  than 
the  well-appointed  steamers  and  railways  are  the 
courtesies  and  kindly  attentions  which  have  never 
failed  us  on  the  way.  The  white  races  have  fur- 
nished our  almost  constant  companions  by  sea  and 
land;  but  even  when  dependent  upon  the  yellow 
and  brown  peoples  of  the  East,  we  have  wanted 
nothing.  It  is  true  the  multitude  of  them  have  had 
their  thoughts  on  the  backsheesh  to  be  won  from 
the  strangers;  but  even  so,  their  manners  have 


Liverpool,  February  27,  1S89. 


(252) 


End  of  the  "Journey.  253 

been  such  as  to  make  it  easy  to  part  with  a few 
cash,  pice,  or  piasters  in  return  for  their  active 
service.  All  the  world  over  there  are  many  whose 
courtesies  can  only  be  had  when  it  pays. 

But  above  all  else  comes  the  feeling  of  grati- 
tude at  the  remembrance  that  through  all  these 
lands  and  all  these  peoples  I have  seen  the  foot- 
steps of  the  Redeemer.  The  Son  of  God  has  made 
homes  for  himself  wherever  we  have  gone.  What 
wealth  of  promise  there  is  in  this  for  the  years  to 
come!  I am  nearing  the  end  of  my  pilgrimage, 
and  may  not  see  the  ingathering  of  the  nations; 
but  you  and  the  generation  to  which  you  belong 
may  yet  be  gladdened  with  the  vision  of  a regen- 
erated world.  It  will  not  be  long  till  the  fires 
kindled  in  the  East  shall  blaze  in  every  neighbor- 
hood and  every  home,  and  the  light  that  now  ir- 
radiates our  own  shores  shall  flash  into  the  jungles 
and  deserts  of  the  South  and  East,  and  bless  all 
them  that  sit  in  the  region  and  shadow  of  death. 
To  this  I give  my  daily  prayers.  For  this  I make 
appeal  to  the  faith,  prayer,  and  generosity  of  our 
home  Church.  By  our  zeal  and  self-sacrifice  let 
us  give  meaning  and  constrain  answer  to  our  im- 
portunate prayer,  “Thy  kingdom  come.” 

Good-by.  The  next  salutation  shall  be  from 
my  lips,  not  from  my  pen.  Your  Mother. 


DATE  DUE 

CAYLORO 

PRINTED  INU  t.A.  [ 

